This climb wends its way up the more sterner buttress to the left of Scrumdillyishus, characterized by 3 small roofs.

The initial thin crack peters out to become delicate face climbing, this culminates, after the first bolt, in a fierce little sequence (crux) to reach a large flake. The character of the climb now changes; committing moves over each of the roofs, coupled with exposure, make the moderate steep face climbing seem quite serious.

A long, enjoyable and varied climb.

Airy Scene

Mr. Misty Kiss

I Forgot to Have Babies

Nuts and Cherries

Dipped Cone

Squirrel Attack

Double Decker

Scrumdillyishus

Dilly Bar

Hot Fudge

Biological Clock

Date Shake

Possum Pie

Chili Dog

Frosty Cone

Bill's Nuts

Climb cracks on the arete on left end of wall, then up the face

Super fun climbing up the heavily featured crack that offers all sorts of jams, face holds and protection opportunities.

Gear belay and easy downclimb off the right edge of the cliff.

Difficult to place protection and fairly runout. This climb may be better left as a toprope. Climb up to a crack that doesn't quite touch bottom, then pull through many large huecos to the top. Set an anchor with large cams.

Short little route located on the very left side of the Dairy Queen Wall Right

Crux at the top getting around large boulder

Difficult to place protection and fairly runout.  This climb may be better left as a toprope.  Climb up to a double crack system that doesn't quite touch bottom.  This climb is very difficult for 5.6.  Anchor is set with large cams.

Climb the left-angling hand crack to a large pod.  Continue up and left out of the pod on steep rock to the hand crack and featured face above.  Gear anchor.

Descend by rapping

Hot Fudge

or by scrambling down chimney/slot to climber's right.

This climbs the prominent chimney in the center of the DQ Right Side. It's swell.

This climb ascends the most obvious pocketed face on the Dairy Queen wall that is not interrupted by cracks. Climb the center of the face as pictured below. A hard crux starts the route (which felt harder than 5.9 to me) but could be avoided if you step right to start and then left after 2-3 meters of climbing. The beginning is big balance moves to a sloper and the rest is running up jugs on reasonably secure holds to the bolt anchor up top.

This route was reminiscent of Southeastern sandstone and seemed out of character for the area in general. It could be a pleasant change of pace for those wanting a break from J-tree edging and smearing.

To descend, rap off on a single rope to the ground.

Biological Clock lies on the far right (west) end of DQ on a separate, short wall.  Look for the single bolt on the upper face.

A fairly unusual route, as most of the protection is by tying off rock "plates".  Start up nice 10' hand crack.  This is where the fun begins.  Move up and left on incut plates (some a bit hollow sounding).  One solid bolt (replaced 2/02) protects the crux (5.9+) exiting moves.  Getting to that bolt is a little spicey.  Belay in crack and descend by walking NW to chimney/slot that will take you back to your pack.

Climb the rightmost of the obvious cracks at the right end of the wall.  Step onto the wall from the boulder, or start in the cleft below.  Similar difficulty either way.  More challenging if you don't chimney on the wall behind you on the right.

First piece is fairly high up, and the route is definitely vertical, but holds are consistently juggy.

Lies on a block left of I Forgot to Have Babies. Go up twin cracks, then left on the face to a crack through a roof.

Good cracks and feet take you through most of this climb.  The difficulty comes where one cracks peters out and you have to  transition left and into another.

This route climbs the featured, vertical crack left of Hot Fudge. The climb is not overly sustained and eats up small gear primarily. The crack can be used to jam in a few places only, especially if you have bigger hands, but face holds are abundant for both hands and feet. A bit easier climb than Mr. Misty Kiss, which goes at the same level in Vogel's guidebook. Very shady climb, no matter the time of day with its NE orientation. After leading, build a belay or use the anchors above Hot Fudge to bring up the second. Enjoy this fun route with many others near the same level on DQ Wall.

Began as Double Decker but go left on big holds to a thin crack

Description

Protection

Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side