Begin just left of Banquet. You may need to stick clip the first bolt if you're under 6 ft. The initial section is the crux, and very height dependent. If you're under about 6 feet tall it may shut you down. After that, fun moves on steep flakes lead to the top.

The Fetus

Cold Carnitas Leftovers

Leaden the Rock

Talisker's Choice

Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie

Feast

Natty Tree Goes Rogue

McAloo Tikki

Picnic

Banquet

I Love my Marine

Feminine Itch

McChoss

Feminine Itch Direct Start

Impatience  (aka  A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari )

McStain

I Love my Marine, Direct

Lunch

Sokolove

Fool's Ruby

Shattered

Heart Slab

Begin just left of the Fetus and make a step-across move/dyno to gain a ledge with the hands. (This maneuver will be more difficult the shorter you are) Hand traverse left, then power over a bulge (10c, height dependent) on knobs. The middle section has some enjoyable steep face climbing, with a 10c slab move above the fourth bolt.

This adventure starts high above the desert and features well-protected slab climbing that wanders upwards past many bolts, not all of which are in the best locations.

Although orginally done as two seperate routes, Leftovers (5.9) and Cold Carnitas (5.10b), with a belay in a slanting crack midway, it makes more sense to combine them into a single pitch.

Crux is a short almost-vertical section at the start. Then trend far left to the top. Crosses "Fool's Ruby" from right to left.

Climb the dark chimney and crack located to the right of Fool's Ruby. Finish the route by either climbing to the left with 3 bolts and a hard 8+ move or finish right by climbing the crumbly 5.6 face with no protection.  Perhaps a choice made easier with a shot of Talisker single malt from the Isle of Skye.

This route is toward the middle of the south face of Campfire Crag and is approached in any number of easy cracks to its base. You'll have a few moves to get to the first bolt so take along some medium cams. It's sandbagged moving from the second bolt to the top. Be that as it may, it's a fine route. There are rap anchors.

Climb up and establish feet to clip a bolt, then climb the crux (insecure, & possibly height-dependant) to palm smear up above. Then climb easier rock (ground fall potential, but 5.5 or so) up to distinct dark features at a slight bulge and 2 more bolts. Top out and belay on a 2-bolt anchor.

Fun, puzzling, and Oh my god I can't believe I stuck to that!?!? I describe the grips as "palming an oversized basketball."

To the right of Talisker's Choice climb a series of cracks to the top and continue up the crumbly face of Fool's Ruby 5.6 R or harder cracks to the right.

Start up Picnic for 6 feet and then move left to climb the narrow face between it and

McStain

by way of the numerous and unique solution pockets; finishes past a pair of black intrusions near the top.

Just left of the picnic table up against the right side of the S Face of this crag, there is a well-defined crack & runnel system that runs up and left of a dark vertical section of the wall, then up the left side/corner of the buttress at the right edge of the wall. Climb that to the top. OK warm up on a freezing morning, but not good for much else.

This is a left leaning crack in the middle of the south face of Campfire Crag behind CS 41. Setting pro is a breeze; and the route, all in all, is much fun.

Start up featured rock passing two bolts and a good knob tie-off to reach a slanting crack (.75 - 1" piece) before heading up and right to a fixed lost arrow piton at the base of the upper slab. Clip the pin and then pass a straight-in crack (1.5 - 2.5" piece) to reach a final bolt just before the anchors.

Fun climbing with a good variety of moves throughout it's length make this a worthwhile route if in the area.

This climb starts in the back of site 41, about 18' from the picnic table to the right. Start behind a creosote in a trough/groove with a hole down low and a bolt. Climb this to a ledge, then move left and climb the face above past three bolts to a two bolt anchor/rap.

A direct variation (5.10b/c) starts about 15' to the left. Climb past a horizontal and a bolt to the ledge and join the regular route.

Fun moves at the crux on lesser quality rock, but the top half of this route climbs an enjoyable slab on excellent stone.

Start just right of a small bush at opposing side pulls and lieback into the pocketed crack above which higher becomes a flake ending at a horizontal crack; continue above up a nice slab to finish parallel with

McStain

.

Direct start to Feminine Itch. Crux is right away, but well protected by the bolt.

This is the plated face on the far left side of the south face of Campfire Crag, to the right of the Heart Slab. No fixed gear, 2 bolt rap station at ledge with the small cat's claw bush. This climb starts with stemming/chimney moves to reach the plates. It is also located just left of the bolted climb Shattered.

Follow the gold streak up the gritty slab with the crux moving past the first bolt. Once past the last bolt it's a little runout but the angle kicks back and it gets much easier.

Steep friction moves up the face lead to a scooped out area and a high bolt below an obvious black intrusion. Move left after clipping the bolt, find the hidden edge and then make a long reach to the black intrusion and power over the bulge.

Higher, progressively easier moves up and left lead into the 2nd bolt of the regular route, which is followed to the top.

This is a so-so route. It's general direction is clear, but specifics not in a few places, with some variation in difficulty and quality depending upon the precise line taken. In all cases, at least minor runouts will be experienced. In my case, the climbing also seemed a tad hard for 5.6. Maybe 5.7 or 5.8.This is one of the longer routes on Campfire. It can be done in a  pitch or in two, depending on how much pro & how many slings you use- determining in how much drag you end up with.

Start more or less in the center of the S face, in a well defined crack system. Climb up a few moves to get established and get in some pro, climbing up for a bit before committing to a junky crack or a good face left of it (without a crack) Vogel's book implies a defined line, and while this is marked as a crack, it appears to go left top the face _variation, which was seeming nicer, though unprotected (5.5?  S/VS).  We chose that over the less interesting crack.  After and additional 70' of climbing, you pop up onto a ledge and see a finishing crack, up into this and over the top on larger cams (3" or so?) gets you to the top of the crag.

Descending is either an exposed and insecure scramble down a long sloping ramp to the East, or a long walk back around from the N or W side. Worth the effort to climb it? YES. Worth the effort required to get back down? MAYBE.

Make easy moves to the first bolt (drilled angle) about 20 feet up and then wander up the narrow, low-angled rib above passing three more bolts. It's a little ways from the last bolt to the anchor but the angle kicks back and it gets easier.

A direct start (5.9) can be done up the front of the rib and can even be lead by pre-clipping the first bolt.

An awkward hand crack leads to easier going and the top of the flake.  Steep, exposed, poorly protected face climbing takes you to the top.

Scramble up the gully left of and behind campsite 42.  Towards the top, on the main south face of Campfire Crag, this route angles up and left past two bolts to the right end of a horizontal, then up past three bolts from there. Gear belay and walk/scramle off.

Description

Protection

Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face