This is a short, clean, pleasant hand crack.

New Year's Quickie

Holy Cross

Flakey Puffs From Hell

Misha's Madness

Tipples in Rime

Satchmo

Auld Lang Syne

In A Silent Way

Take Five

Wailing Sax

Sanctify Yourself

Birdland

Maiden Voyage

Made In The USA

Jo Mama

The Morning After

Carola's Hip

This name reeks of nostalgia.  However, nostalgia ain't what it used to be, and this is a route to avoid.  It is a hand crack, with a loose flake in the crack making the climbing unpleasant and the protection unreliable.

This climb is midway between the continuous crack lines of Jo Mama and Take Five. It heads straight up under a roof and turns the roof thru a V-shaped feature. Thin and strenuous thru the roof.

Climb a short left-facing corner which quickly ends leading to face climbing, gain a ledge and then finish with an upper face section.

Start up a thin crack/seam, pass a bolt near it's end and mantle onto a ledge then finish up slabby face past two more bolts. Gear belay and walk-off or rap from anchors left of this route.

Tipples in Rime is sort of a contrived route left of Wailing Sax.  The bartlett book says its 10 feet left, but by the top of the route you're about 5 feet.  The roof move is a little harder than Wailing Sax, but the face moves are about the same difficulty as Wailing... The route keeps trying to take you back to Wailing Sax, try to avoid the temptation of jumping into the crack on the top and stay left on the face.  Not great, worth it if you're there and want another tick.

This is a rather forgettable crack, but with adequate protection and decent rock.

Start up Take Five. After about 10 feet move right onto the face to a bolt, then straight up a discontinuous seam past four more bolts to the top.

This climb follows the dominant feature of the wall: a crack that goes up the middle of the wall and continues as two cracks as it goes thru a bulge/roof. An enjoyable route with good pro and fun moves thru the bulge.

Climb discontinuous cracks to a small roof (thins a bit above the roof. Fun!) to a single bolt. Beyond that it eases up considerably. Though the route is quite short, it has some pretty cool moves and is worth a shot when in the area.

This is a steep face with two bolts, some thin crack gear placements, and lots of fun, varied, non-strenuous moves.

Climb up a curving left facing corner under the roof. Throw in some pro, then make the one move 5.10c to pull the roof. The quality deteriorates above the roof.

This route is to the left of Carola's Hip and starts with some thin face moves up to the first bolt about 15 feet up.  The next bolt is 20 feet up above the roof and you have to get over the small roof  (more of a high step onto a head wall than pulling a roof move).  There is an overhanging flake to put a #3 or #4 behind so the runout isn't that bad.  Once you get to the second bolt and clip you start moving out to the right on the arete/hip.  The 3rd and 4th bolt are run out as well.  You finish with 25 feet of run out to the top where there is a thin seam you can get a nut in to feel a little more secure.

Start about 15 feet down and right from Take Five, and just left of Maiden Voyage. Climb up to and over a  small roof, then follow a seam past 5 bolts to the top.

From the extreme left end of the Wailing Sax Wall going from left to right it is the second obvious crack system. Easily protected, fun roof move (Elvis #4 or #5 rests nicely here). Near many other cool climbs on same formation.

This is a nice climb on good rock with many 5.7 type moves. It is just left of the big crack that splits the wall (Take Five). Follow a right-leaning crack that intersects a left leaning crack to reach the roof in the middle of the wall.

Pull up over the roof just right of Holy Cross (10a).

This is a fairly nice route, with some offwidth and an overhang.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wailing Sax Wall