When i last did this route it still required trad gear but had 2 bolt as well... A lot can happen at Rumney in a few years so let me know if more bolts have been added... 

  This route is a second pitch for either the Holderness corner (5.8 trad) or Holderness Buttress (5.10 sport) routes that end on top of the Holderness buttress just right of Flesh For Lulu... 

  From the anchors of either climb head out right and wander a little up past 2 bolts toward a horizontal crack below a small right facing corner... the climbing on the first half of the route isn't too tough, the crux is at the top so save your strength... I placed gear in the horizontal and pumped my way up the challenging finish moves to the chain anchors... There are a few options of how to do the moves up top but it is steep and a little pumpy... It Isn't specific to the grade but I remember it being about middle range 5.10

Holderness Finish

Holderness Arete

White Rhino

Hope For Movement

Flesh For Lulu

Holderness School Corner

Climb both sides of the arete which is quite techy and challenging... The crux comes at mid height and can be done a few ways with slight variation in the grade... A good convenient warm up for the harder stuff to the left... 

  I have seen less experienced climbers get stumped at the crux numerous times do to the technical nature of the climbing... So if 5.10 is your limit just be ready to climb with your head...

Climb atop the huge boulder left of Flesh for Lulu to reach the belay and start for this climb.  

  Climb the blunt arete on flat holds that pump out the heavy climber and make for hard moves for the short climber. Additionally, the short climber might get shut down on the reachy crux of this climb. A fun climb for the 5.12 climber but it feels very hard for the 5.11 climber (especially if short).

The route immediately to the left of Flesh for Lulu. Long and excellent also although not as perfect as its neighbor. Easy start to a somewhat tricky bulge. Rest on the ledge before heading up and left through another 50 feet of really fun, sustained climbing. Awkward finish detracts from the route in my humble opinion. But still very high quality. 

  This route has a convoluted history, with the name and line changing over time. The original Duncan McCallum line, Hope for Donna, stepped off the pillar to the left to gain the face and finished up and right. Scott Stevenson  bolted the left hand finish which was likely FA'ed by Dave Jacobson. The lower start was bolted years later. See the comments below.

Such a perfect piece of rock. The kind of route that you walk up to and just have to climb.   

  Starting with low-angle climbing typical of the easier Meadows climbs, you overcome a bulge at no harder than 5.10 gaining a ledge. Rest up then embark upon the cruxy second half of the route taking the path of least resistance up the slightly overhanging orangeish rock. From the rest ledge, move up and right to a bolt a super crimpy crux will test your fingers as you start, but the true crux for most lies at the end. After 5.11ish climbing past crimps and jugs, you clip the last bolt and traverse right. A few crimpy, pumpy holds guard a hidden jug which marks the end of your struggle and the beginning of your celebration. You have climbed one of THE classic 5.12s at Rumney.  

  This route was originally done with only 2 bolts, when the guide book was published it had 9 and now there are eleven. Don't come up short on draws or it will be scary at the top.

Climb up easy ground to gain the crack...Then jam and STEM your way up the corner...making some use of the face hold will help...And again STEM.... 

  Funny side note: When I was learning to trad climb, I would look at this intimidating steep corner often and say someday I'll get on that...But not today....   On one rainy day, for some reason, I was feeling bold and I said today's the day.... Long story short, I pissed myself (figuratively) all the way up the slick corner fearing for my life up to my elbows in the crack with muck dripping in to my arm pits....Looking for gear and realizing that the placements weren't all that straightforward....   I made it to the top, clipped in, and lowered with a big smile on my face covered in cuts and filth....   One slip and it could have been very different, but on that day I was happy to have lived life to its fullest.... 

  The end.... 

  Be safe and have fun....

The far right section of the Meadows area roughly from Hope For Movement (5.12d) to Holderness Arete (5.10b), though there have been routes added further right im not sure if they count as meadows or Parking Lot Wall...

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Holderness Corner