This is the nice boulder before you get to Squirming Coil area. It the the first real boulder you see when you are hiking up the trail, on the left. If you have to step up on some rocks and duck under tree branches, you've missed it. Turn around, and it is right there!

Once the start holds are located, ascend straight up. This has really cool movement with some balancy moves.  Watch out for the tree's branches, because they loom near the top of the climb.

Mr. Wiggles and Mr. Giggles

Cling Free

Dasani

No Laughing Matter

Free Hang

Call You

South End

Bubba Direct

The Trainer

F*n Lucky

Coaches Corner

Coaches' Direct

This is a good warm-up problem (as well as the easiest at dark side, beginner problem which is a real problem) which ascends the left side of the boulder on which

Mr. Wiggles and Mr. Giggles

is located.

Mr. Wiggles and Mr. Giggles

starts on the right side of this boulder.

Start in the crack with a good edge for a right foot, and a right hand undercling and left hand in the crack. Make your way up left on the jugs on the protruding rock. Gain the larger ledge and top out.

This has most definitely been done before, it is being added so that it can be enjoyed in its own right, and so that there are more beginner/warmup problems listed. If you know the original name or first ascentionist, let me know and I'll update accordingly.

Mr. Wiggles and Mr. Giggles

starts on the right side of this boulder, and is not the same as this problem.

Start in the cave using the thin crack and dime-edge feet. Make tough moves and big reaches to exit the cave and gain the lieback. From the lieback, make a big move, and hit a decent rail just above the lip. Landing is fairly good...

Cling Free variation: do the same start as Cling Free; however, use the rail of jugs and slopers to the North. If you fall off the topout, you risk falling into a tree and 20 feet down the gully.

This is the first route you come to as the trail comes up over the hogback onto the west side.  Once you get on the west slope, look down the hill to the right about 20 feet and you'll see a slightly overhanging arete with chalk.  Start on the right side in a good horizontal crack, work your way up and left along the arete through an undercling till you reach a long throw to the lip.  Mantle over.

Start on a lieback on the arete on the middle of

Cling Free

. Make a big move to a sloping rail, then hit a hold over the lip and top out.

Start on jugs on the climbe'rs left side of the boulder, and climb more jugs with a crappy, optional kneebar thrown in there. It is kind of sharp. There is a sort of slabby topout.

The start is low, climb up on some weird holds and over the lip onto the slab.

Find the start jug for

Coaches Corner

(which uses the same feet), a right hand start hold is to the left, it’s a little quarter pad two/three finger pocket/pinch/slot/crimp. Your left hand starts down, down, down, down low on the obvious left seam (it’s a crimp, if you're holding onto something positive and juggy, go down further till you want to cry). Pop up your right hand to the rail above, and compress without firing off the left hand start, then shoot up your left hand to the finish jug for

Dasani

and

C.C.

. Top out, Bubba owes you a beer. If you bump your left hand up to the good part of the seam then go up, take off 3 points and no beer for you.

From the stand-start holds on the knife, make your way out to the South side of the boulder.

Start on two crimps in the lower set of cracks. Bump right up the crack, and throw left to the second crack. Throw right out to a small sloper, get set, and throw left to the good pinch. From here, the topout is easy but feels very insecure. Trust your spotter, and commit.

This problem might have been done before, but we found it with no chalk and no noticeable signs of being climbed before. Please let me know if there is a FA out there.

Coaches Corner is a direct start to the problem

Dasani

. It starts on the flat, seemingly impossible undercling in the middle of the face, heads up the the arete, and finishes out the last half of

Dasani

. The first move is the crux and doesn't really let up until you do the huck!

youtube.com/watch?v=OqrioB4…

The start is the same as for

Coaches Corner

, but the contrivance is that the right arete is off. You must only use the face of the boulder and the left arete. This is a very short, position intensive boulder problem.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dasani Area