This is the upper wall extension to

Straight Arrow

(12a), and it climbs up the wall characterized by a small, right-facing corner left of the huge rock scar visible from the ground. The short-lived crux at bolt 3 is followed by fun climbing with a slight jog right then back left where the wall blanks out. There are chains (for now) up top.

Two single rope rappels are required to reach the ground.

The Piercing

Cracked Pedestal

Worth the Price of Admission

Bunkhouse Barbie's Dream Castle

Archimedes Says We’re Hired

Architype

The Big Drop

Rosewood

Old Growth

* The Live Edge

Saw Monster

Straight Arrow

Mean, Mean Pride

Rough Sawn

Step off the boulder and engage technical face and layaway moves that ease past the 4th bolt. This route ends on "Link Ledge" roughly halfway up the wall.

The Piercing

(10c) is a delightful climb to the summit that extends past Straight Arrow.

Cracked Pedestal is the result of too much table dancing ....  The route casually follows the continuous crack system stepping past the short, fist crack bulge. Then trend left through a series of thin, intermittent cracks towards the anchor above

Rosewood

. Alternately, above the short fist crack bulge, it is possible to continue straight up steeper crack and stemming, and finish with a hard traverse left to the

Rosewood

anchor.

This is a nice upper wall route up a fairly obvious crack/corner feature on the right side to a sweet perch on the summit ridge.

Climb a well-protected first pitch to a small ledge (5.9- 8 bolts...hint: look around). Plentiful edges, a little airiness, and a final small bulge with big hand holds make for fun 5.7 second pitch (6 bolts). You can do two rappels with a single 60m rope.

Big holds off the ledge lead to a superb crux bulge, then more mundane but still fun climbing heads up to the anchor at the ridgeline.

Nice patina leads to a difficult move at the bulge, then continue with more moderate climbing up to a ledge with anchors (optional belay). Climb the steepening wall aiming for a tiny, right-facing corner on the right (crux) past the last bolt to jugs and the anchors.

The descent will require two rappels with a 60m rope.

This route is named in honor of Archibald Staunton. The amazing generosity of the Staunton family make Staunton State Park a possibility.

Sustained layaways and face climbing lead to moves past the giant flake (right of the large scar) to a final face and the anchor just below the ridge line.

Rosewood starts on the face of a shallow dihedral, moves to a small pillar, and finishes with slab climbing to the anchor.

Right of

Architype

is a thin, ginsu-style flake. Take this delicately to the crux wall above. Climb past the ledge (optional belay), and finish with moderate but fun climbing up the varnished dihedral.

The descent will require two rappels with a 60m rope.

This is a second pitch above the

Rosewood

anchor. It has great position. Pass the overhanging corner on good gear and big holds. Above the roof, step onto the headwall, and follow the bolts up the exposed edge of the formation.

This climb offers 2 difficult sections down low, then passes "Link Ledge" (optional belay) and one more difficult section before the climbing eases.

There are Mussy/steel anchor on the summit ridge.

Two rappels are required with a 60m rope.

Mean, Mean Pride is the final upper wall route. It is cruiser to final roof, then trend left to the anchors.

5.9 climbing past a bulge (10b) leads past a ledge (optional belay), then work up to a technical crux past crimps, edges, and shallow pockets. The finish tends up and right on incredible holds to an anchor with steel carabiners just below the summit.

This can be done as one pitch.

Two rappels are required with a 60m rope.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sawmill Wall