The beautiful obvious splitter-like crack, just left of the large chimney, midway down the cliff line. Easy, well protected climbing leads to a small right facing corner up high (crux)There is a two bolt anchor up and back from the edge about 10 feet, but edge is littered with rocks, be careful. *BOLTS CHOPPED as of 10/17/21*

Out On A Limb

Reach for the Sun

Rock and Snow

Sense of Direction

Sorcerer's Apprentice

No Sense of Direction

On The Lamb

Canopy

Relaxation of Tensions

The Pinch

Parallel Cracks

Cross Section

Larks' Tounges

Redcoat Variation

Enclosure

No Taxation

Numb Toes

Crown of Thorns

Boston Tea Party

Up the Down Staircase

Starting on a large ramp extending up and right to the overhanging block just left of the Out On A Limb crack. Follow the ramp up to the roof. At the roof, step right and follow the right facing corner to the top. Pull the ledge and then follow a shallow right facing corner to the top.

Climb the large arete formed by the outside corner of the chimney block. Outside corner of Larks' Tounges.

Vertical crack to crack and corner system. From Nichols' green book "Climb the obvious vertical crack 20 feet to the right of Overlap Trap. The first ascent was sieged due to heavy snow and temperatures in the teens."

 Nichols rates this route 5.5, but it felt harder than Crown of Thorns and On the Lamb to me.

Left facing corner rising up the full height of the cliff. The first 20 to 25 feet are totally unprotected. Its possible to climb the face right of the corner at about 5.3 difficulty for about 20 feet before stepping left if the runout beginning is intimidating.

Sorcerer's Apprentice starts down the the small gully between two large blocks on the left end of the cliff. Starting just left of the overhang a the base of the large left facing corner, work you way up into the corner and follow to a ledge. From there work up and left to the final ledge on Canopy and follow the crack with the rock blade to the top.

Follow the hand/fist/wide dirty crack til you can transfer to the hand/fist/wide dirty crack couple feet to the right, follow this to the top.  Jams are useful but also plenty of face holds per usual on traprock. Crux comes just before the top and is well protected.  Be mindful of the deathblock half way up and choss after the topout.  Great climb!

Start ontop of the large block on the left most corner of the main cliff (right side of the West facing alcove). Follow a diagonal crack up and right until it meets a horizontal one. Follow a thin crack up a face to a good ledge (crux), and then follow a right leaning crack with a detached slice of rock sticking out. 

  TR Varitation: When you reach the final ledge with the blade sticking out, follow the arete of the over hanging face to the top (5.11-) or fire up the middle of the face (5.12-).

The cracks on the right (west-facing) wall of the recess near the outside corner can be climbed directly to the top. There is some vegetation growing out of the crack which makes for a few fun bushwhacky moves. Good variety of moves, from smearing on slabs to fist-jamming cracks. Great views from the top, but walk back 20-30ft to setup anchor and WATCH FOR LOOSE ROCK!

Climb the large chimney feature on the Western end of the crag. Start stemming inside and then when the walls get close, work the outside faces to the top.

A pair of small cracks about 18 inches apart in the middle of the face 10-15 feet right of On the Lamb

Climb in and around an easily protected crack for the first 75% of the climb. The crux is made up of thoughtful moves at about the two-thirds mark. Good stances for placing gear throughout. The crack turns into a wide chossy affair at the top. I suggest making your way to the looker's left to avoid this chossy section.

Climb the nice looking face on the right side of the large chimney. Faces SW.

Starts the same as Boston Tea Party, then at the first ledge moves further back into the recess. From the Nichols guidebook, "Avoid the off-width crack by climbing the beautiful double cracks in the main inside corner above the dead tree."

 Could be a good route, but needs to be cleaned. Lichen covering most of the route above the first ledge makes the rock slippery. A razor sharp bramble about halfway up is in just the right spot to be a real source of misery. 

About 10 feet left of Crown Of Thorns, follow a tiny crack diagonally up left to a ledge. Then climb the left facing inside corner with an off width that turns into a chimney at the next ledge.

In the back right corner of the recess with Relaxation of Tensions, Redcoat, and Boston Tea Party. From the Nichols guidebook: "The mirror image of Redcoat on the opposite side of the recess contains the same two ledges and an even wider crack.

The obvious left facing corner about 50ft right of the end of the left wall. Follow two crack systems up past some slight overhangs plugging good gear along the way. Follow the main crack up and right past a roof and then mantle up over small ledge to topout.

Hand crack in right facing corner with small tree at the top. Nice stemming in upper third

From the Nichols guidebook: "On the left wall of the large recess, above the first ledge, is an overhanging off-width crack. Reach it by climbing the right-facing corners directly below. Although protection can be taxing to place, the crack can at least be climbed without resorting to off-width techniques."

 Could be a good route, but it needs to be cleaned up. There is lichen on the rock in a lot of places.

Locate the small but good looking crack to the right of Numb Toes. Work your way up the crack (good gear) until it intersects a horizontal crack and then follow it up and right to ledge. From the ledge follow the right facing corner up and left.

Winter Wall is comprised of the largest cliffs on Short Mountain's SE flank and is located on the SE tip of the mountain. The walls are slightly off vertical to vertical in nature and are mostly thin technical face climbs. There are some decent trad leads on these walls, mostly moderates, following features that looks like they might dislodge if pulled too hard or fell on your gear... typical of trap rock.This area like other less frequented Traprock Cliffs has some very dangerous loose rock on common routes. I personal have witnessed a massive block dislodge on a climber while he was attached to it.

Description

Protection

Routes in Winter Wall