In the notch between the upper and lower sections of Ridge 1 are three bolted routes and Golden Shower is the middle of the three. It shares an anchor with the slab climb, Silver Saddle on the right (5.9). Start up GS in the system of huecos passing a small overlap. More overlaps and huecos follow to a final cruxy roof with a spooky finish. The rock here is largely very good, although the huecos can be sharp in places, and GS turned out to be much steeper than it first appeared. Silver Saddle provides nice access to the top if you are looking to get the draws on GS ahead of time.

Golden Shower

Shootin' Off At The Mouth

The Fornicator

The Imposter

Arrogant Bastard

Real Men of Genius

Casana Rojo

The Adultress

The Cyber Spraylord

The Inseminator

Inseminator (only P1's 1st 70 ft)

The Stranger (aka The Left Hand Route)

Unknown 12-

The Impersonator

Straight A Student

Ganas

Wild Blue Yonder

Shootin' Off At The Mouse

Silver Saddle

Outlaw

The Adulterer

Oversprayed And Worthless (AKA: The Ejaculator)

This is the left of the three routes in the

Silver Saddle

Notch. Climb up to the overlap, & reach the 1st bolt above. From here, the climb traverses up left past the 2nd bolt to a flake. Continue up the face.

This is the lower, or right hand route of the clump of routes furthest uphill on Ridge 1, and it intersects with

Shootin' Off At The Mouse

for the final roof.  The crux involves pumpy reaches, but a good pocket eases the overall effect.

This is between "

Real Men of Genius

" and "

The Adultress

" is "The Fornicator".

It is an excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt.  The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex. This is difficult to onsight but not so bad if you know where you are going.

After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big, juggy huecoes (10+).

The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "

Real Men of Genius

", but it is pretty sweet.

This is the route to the right of

Casana Rojo

and to the left of

The Stranger

.  Climb the nicely featured rock to the crux roof.  Pull through on pockets to the anchor, also a good warm up.

This route is up the hill from Raging Hormones. The vertical section is thin and bouldery, then goes through a steep section, and finishes on easy ground.

Wow!

This is one of the best 11c sport routes I've ever done with wild sequences on very interesting stone.

This line starts just right (about 8 feet) of the prominent dihedral where

The Stranger

is located.

4 crux sections with 11ish moves await above. Start directly under the bolt to get the first hard move, a slab maneuver with tricky feet.  You can also start a bit easier (10ish) by starting slightly right and then leaning left to clip.

The next difficulty is encountered at the third bolt - thin feet and hands to gain a jug.

Now for the real fun and the real crux - around bolt 5 you hit a steep roof with an extremely wild and somewhat dynamic sequence(Hint - heel hook left). Burl on through to a good rest under a massive huecoed roof.

From here, climb out the roof almost horizontally for about 20 feet on huge huecoes.  Use long slings to avoid rope drag. The final crux is exiting this roof - pumpy but juggy.

It shares an anchor with

The Stranger

.

This has a beautiful setting and great crux sequences - plus unique stone and well-considered bolting - 3 stars for sure.

Good job by Tod and Nate.

This line is on the upper reaches of Ridge 1, in a sector with significant new route activity.From the prominent dihedral, it is uphill about twenty feet.

This is a very short line (35-40 feet), but it packs a lot of punch!Two cruxes lie above. The first is at about 15 feet where a sick tendony mono is encountered.  The second is at about 25 feet where you run into a tricky and powerful roof sequence.Both crux sequences are about 12a.One of the best short lines around!

This line was originally protected by only 3 bolts, but the first ascensionist added 1 bolt to temper the nasty ground fall potential.

This route was originally put up in the style of the Eighties by two very strong and bold hardmen (Rob Woolf & Jeff Frizell). These gentlemen had more balls than bolts! Thanks to the permission of Rob Woolf, the route now sports chains and a few more bolts. The new bolts should be obvious - climb the route and imagine sending with the original pro. The pucker factor would have pegged the meter! There was even a pin pounded into a dubious block for good measure.... The technical crux happens before the roof and requires some pretty strong tendons. The roof has some relatively cruiser pulling from blocks to killer huecos, with a final 11+ move to the chains.

This is the furthest left, or most uphill route in the area and also a good warm-up. Climb the left side of the face on flakes to the huecoed roof above, big fun.

The Inseminator is about 250 feet from the start of the cliff band and about 100 feet up from the break in the cliff. To the right of a large pine tree, the climb starts from a flat area, uncharacteristic of Ridge One.

The first bolt can be reached from the ground and may be worth clipping because some of the climbs in cut edges are thin. Pull past these edges to a right-leaning crack system, and then crank left over a small but fun roof (10b/c). A few more feet of slab yields the first set of anchors. Clipping the first set of anchors and lowering makes for a good moderate 10 to warm up upon.

If you feel warmed up when you get to the first anchors, you might want to continue.

From here, it trends up and right. Moving from a nasty sloper to small edges with bad feet, climb through three more clips and it is over (12c). From the chains, lower into the big pine tree at the start.

The Inseminator start (1st pitch) is about 250 feet from the start of the cliff band and about 100 feet up from the break in the cliff. To the right of a large pine tree, the climb starts from a flat area, uncharacteristic of Ridge One.

The first bolt can be reached from the ground and is worth clipping, because some of the climbs incut edges are really thin. Pull past these edges to a right-leaning crack system, and then crank left over a small but fun roof (10b-ish). A few more feet of slab yields the first set of anchors. Continuing from here is the 12c 2nd pitch of The Inseminator.

This route is located in the prominent dihedral on the upper reaches of Ridge 1.  This line is between

Casana Rojo

and

The Adultress

.

A great moderate line, this route runs a nice dihedral for the first 40 feet before breaking left into steep overlaps for the last 40 feet.  Big moves to great holds!  Really fun.

This radical route is just left of the first pitch of

The Inseminator

. It's a journey with several cruxes and a few nice rests with more moderate climbing in the middle. It's really quite a nice route. I can't find any beta for it, so please feel free to contribute!

This is the next line of bolts just right of

The Adulterer

and starts at almost the same place.  Stem off the corner below the belay block on

The Adulterer

and angle up and right.  The crux occurs near the end of the route and involves pulling on some sloping pocket features.  There is a possibility of pushing this up through the roof above at the 5.13 or 5.14 level.

Clip the first five bolts of Ejaculator trending up and right. Instead of finishing right as for that route, head straight up the overhanging (and sharp!) hand and fist crack to the top of the wall. The crack itself is mid-5.10 and is a nice variation finish to Ejaculator.

There's a two-bolt anchor set back about ten feet to lower from. It's easy to walk up the back side to retrieve anchor draws. *This anchor was already there, so it's possible this route was already climbed. However, I haven't found any info on the crack and I believe the anchor was used to place anchors on the several sport routes that don't top out the wall.

Start from a ledge ledge 35 feet above the ground. See

Oversprayed And Worthless

for the approach info. This route shares the first 2 bolts with

Oversprayed And Worthless

to a small shelf. Then ascend the overhanging face moving slightly left & then up. The crux is a bulge at the 5th bolt with small holds. Gain a rest ledge at the 7th bolt. Continue up a .12a finish to the anchor.

"I've got blisters on my fingers!"  Wild Blue Yonder is a small holds testpiece up a very overhanging wall.  The edges are positive, sharp, and very tiny.  Lose 30 pounds, bring your best edging shoes, and boulder V8 if you don't want to do the long approach hike more than a few times.  Unlike more accessible areas, you won't have to take a number and wait your turn to play on a classic.

Approach from the Silver Saddle (the notch about 300 feet up from the base of Ridge 1).  Scramble around the corner and up a ramp to belay.  Climb out right over chossy rock (5.10) to a stance above the overlap.  This section of rock sucks, but the rest of the route up the overhanging wall above more than compensates for it.

Step right from the stance and start bouldering toward a scoop/dihedral above.  Did I mention the holds are small?  The moves and clips are sequential, technical, and elegant.  The rock is bulletproof, colorful, and flawless to the anchors.  Don't get suckered into the scoop - the best holds are on the outside just left.

Take the rating with a grain of salt.  I don't know of anyone who has repeated the pitch, so the grade could be plus or minus three letters.  I don't think it is easier than stated, but my opinion is hardly a consensus.

This is the middle route of the clump of three routes furthest uphill & shares the last 3 bolts with

Shootin' Off At The Mouth

.  Fun moves on pockets & edges up a near vertical face lead to a huecoed roof.

This is the lowest route on the upper (main) section of Ridge 1.  It may be the easiest line on this crag.  It is short, pocketed, and fun.  The finish is reachy for the height-challenged.

It is on a section of the crag which faces east, so it can be in the shade.

Start just to the right of

The Adultress

.  Face climb up into a right-facing corner, about 10a to the first anchor.  This part is a good warm up by itself.  Above the first anchor, follow the hanging dihedral to the intersection with

The Adultress

and that route to the anchor.  While this route does not not have the thin crux of

The Adultress

, the pump is greater as it is hard to recover after the hanging dihedral.  A 60m rope is required.

This climbs a sustained, wildly overhanging face. The route starts off a big ledge 35 feet above the ground. Approach the ledge by scrambling up from the left side into a short chimney or from the

Silver Saddle

Notch, by traversing left on a narrow ledge to the chimney.

The route shares the first 2 bolts with "

Ganas

" to a small shelf.  raverse up right past 2 bolts, & ascend the overhanging face that steepens for the finish. When you lower off, you will realize just how overhanging this climb is. You miss the ledge & must be to lowered to the ground. This is one of the top 5 routes that I climbed at the West Bank (the old name for Ridge's 1-7).

Description

Protection

Routes in Ridge 1