Use big holds to grab the shallow, buttery hueco.  Go left to the hueco jug and top out, but the lack of feet will tell you problem isn't quite over yet... 

  To add some difficulty do the variation "Under the Radar" but it isn't nearly as much fun.

Butter Dish

Fingerf*cker

Happy Birthday Dyno

Porcupine

Stand start on the face just right of the crack on obvious holds.  Use the undercling to gain a pinch, then use the holes to get the juggy hueco over the lip to the left. 

  Fingery with precise footwork, this problem has great moves but sharp holds (hence the name).  Start with four stars and remove one for every attempt, as a layer of your finger skin will be removed as well.

Do a huge dyno off two underclings to the solitary hueco.  Crux is sticking the hueco, even though it has a nice sharp edge.  Many people have fallen horizontally away from the wall, hand still outstretched and look of disbelief on their faces...  put the pads back if you can hit the hueco.  Juggy above. 

  The grade is highly suspect as it has yet to see a repeat by anyone other than Jake. 

  Jake worked this problem for months, then one day he came out, went straight here, stuck the dyno first try, went home and celebrated his birthday. 

  A much easier variation is to use lots of sharp and slick holds to avoid the dyno.  This is "Timmy's Wonderful Nightmare" V5-ish.

"Don't fall unless it's halloween and you want to dress up as a porcupine" - Opie 

  Hard-to-find, widely-spaced holds take you almost against your will up and right, over the sea of prickly pear cactus.  Also, just for extra value, this problem is highly committing.

A little bouldering alcove of nice rock in Major Wall.  Gets afternoon sun and well protected from wind, makes for a good winter spot.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dylan's Secret Garden Bouldering