This is an intriguing, 80-foot, twisted, little, granite spire that invites you to check it out as you drive around the upper parts of Golden Gate Canyon SP. It seems fairly unique in Colorado in my wanderings. Done a long time ago based upon the ancient bolt on top. This is the obvious line, but there are others if you linger. From Panorama Point, continue on the dirt road to the Harmsen Ranch. Find this obvious spire on the hill behind the Ranch. Get a bearing. Hike up through a forest 20-25 minutes.

This is the path of least resistance:

Start on what seemed to be the SW face. Follow a line of 3 bolts up a face (crux), angle right and curl around to the SE face up easy, broken rock, pass an ancient bolt, and find yourself on top.

Rap 80 feet from a fixed anchor. Because this anchor is basically centered on top, the rope pull can require a bit of a pull.

Per

Greg Barnes

: with the new rap anchor going directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap.

You can extend your day with a wander (bushwhack) left to the second buttress of Mt. Thoridin as we did that day.

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Squawk

Climb the Squaw's backside, starting at the little notch on the east end and spiraling around the north. Cut hard right just off the notch, and follow fun steps to a ledge below overhangs. Climb very steeply, with good pro, until you can step right onto a good stance below final overhang. Find as much pro as you can, step right again, pull the bulge, and mantel up to the top. If you do it the way we did, you'll finish right at the summit chains.

Description

Protection

Routes in [Redacted]