Stick clip the first bolt, and climb through the thin seams that punctuate the incredibly smooth brown face. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts, after which a 10 foot section of finger crack leads to the anchors.

This route has some of the smoothest rock in the area. It requires confident footwork, a very long reach, and a flexible interpretation of the official 5.12b grading.

Nodes

Winter Harvest

Room of Doom

Golden Age

Pickled Eggs

Welcome to the Meadow

Giggle Box

Making Whoopie

Truancy Man

Rocket in my Pocket

Pillow Rock

Jugnasium

Hueco the Flood

Slip n' Grip

Unknown

Tabasco Fur

Bust a Move

Truancy

Home Schooled

Fritz Crack

Tabasco Fart

Little Feat

Neon Parks

Ledge Access

Off My Rocker

This route is a ton of fun with easy juggy climbing. Get a better than a bolt stopper right at the roof and pull over on big holds. Romp up the crack laden with plates and jugs. Finish at the two-bolt anchor.

Deceptively difficult - a "Sunday drive" with a major roadblock.

Waltz up to stance below roof. Proceed briefly into thin dihedral. Make challenging clip and move left sequentially to arete (crux). Cruise left side of arete to top.

Start up the giant v slot and climb into the dark depths of the Room of Doom. Play a daring game of the-floor-is-lava to cross the Room, then solve the final riddle to escape to a finishing roof pull.

This is a very good pure stemming corner, which is rare at the NRG.  Clip the first two bolts of the sport arete Winter Harvest, but instead of going left, head straight up the obvious corner.  It is a bit spicy through here, until you clip a Thank-God bolt, which protects the crux.

This is the better of the two ledge access routes. The climbing is juggy and casual, the protection is a little more intricate as it is face climbing.

This is a very good quality route that would benefit from more traffic.   Although the rock is clean, there are many small friable edges that still exist.   Use caution when stepping on them.   To start, either stick clip the high first bolt or just climb up on crimps and place a piece in a horizontal below the first bolt.   After the first bolt, arch a bit to the left and then slowly head back right passing bolts 2 and 3.   The technical crux is in the lower portion of the route.    After the 3rd bolt, head straight up through the overhanging face.   It's pumpy up there if you don't find the right holds quickly.

Climbs wide crack at the left end of the right hand ledge of Piss Pot Ledge.  Starts off the ledge. Lots of jugs.

It's in the guidebook, but skip this POS! Not much pro, bad belay options, dirty topout with thorn bushes and a tree with no anchor 20' back.

Bring your double-length runners for this one.  This route starts up the friendly holds of the beginning of Wooshka Man to a ledge.  From the ledge, traverse right (although the moves are easy, remember to protect your second on the traverse, as the ledge isn't a great distance off the ground) to an obvious right-angling weakness.  Follow this weakness with plentiful pro up and right until you link up with the plated jugs of Truancy and finish it to the anchors.

Climb the face with plated pockets 20 ft right of Little Feat.

If you want to avoid the Room of Doom, here's how you go around it! But unlike this route's counterpart whitewater rapid, you should probably just go into the Room of Doom because it's more awesome, more direct, and safer.

Start on either Room of Doom or Modern Guilt to access the large ledge left of ROD. Face climb with finnicky gear up and right then pull the bulge to the anchors of Room of Doom

This is an extension or second pitch, but is easily done in a single pitch. The climbing on the upper crack from the ledge is very fun and juggy for a trad route.

Hueco the Flood climbs some delicate moves at the start and finish, the middle is good plated huecos, the top stays a bit dirty from run off.

This is listed as a project

Easy to Slip

in the Williams guidebook, the crux is low, but pulling the top is pretty rough, you will need to rappel off a tree up top and donate some blood while crawling through thorn bushes.

Start up the initial crack of Death by Chewing Insects. Then ride the trio of horizontals directly to the right. Follow the very short vertical crack through the bulge. Then head up and right via plate jugs to the runnel on the arete. Take that to a lichened slab. Don't worry. It's still fun. Don't miss the opportunity to tie off the big chickenhead. Get some gear under the short roof and bail right to the corner so as to avoid the Horse Pens topout through pine needles. Descend from cord in the tree.

This is a real hidden gem for the 5.10 trad climber.   The entire route has excellent pro and thought provoking moves the entire way.   Climb up some broken ledges to reach a protruding flake (you can sling this for some bomber natural pro).   Grab the flake and pull the overhang staying left of some mountain laurel to reach a ledge.  From here, wander right and left following the path of least resistance.  The crux comes at mid height as you make the first traverse to the left side of the arete.   Follow very positive holds and plates to the finish.

This is a high quality route this is likely overlooked.   Excellent moves that link perfectly.   Start directly under the high first bolt and climb straight up using positive holds to gain the large ledge below the first bolt.   From here, follow a flake to the 2nd bolt, traverse right hand over hand and then head up to reach the 3rd bolt.   A thin section leading to the 4th bolt is the crux.   Diagonal up and right along jugs to reach the shuts.

Start at a tree growing out of a small ledge.  Large hueco to the right of the tree about 12 feet up.  Climb thin crimps and small holds until you gain a ledge 20 feet up.  From the ledge, 40 feet or so of gorgeous crack and friendly holds lead you to more good holds in the form of plated jugs and some face climbing. Head for a notch in the lip of the cliff.

A very nice face climb for the confident 5.9 trad leader! Climb straight up the face on really cool huecos, taking pro where you can get it.

Steep and fun, this route is largely a romp on plate jugs. Protection can be challenging, so don't rip off any of the jugs!

The crux is stemming to gain the hand crack. The climb is short and sweet and over when you slam your first hand jam.

This is really a great "sport" route that happens to be missing a bolt (but instead has a perfect mail slot to put a small cam in).

The first bolt is fairly high, another small cam can be used to protect the moves up to it.  Then climb straight up, making long moves between good holds, with several nice rests.  The balancy crux at the end is awesome!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4 Moon Wall