Shang-High Boulder:  

  Walk past the "S.L.S." Boulder along the Listening Rock trail.    As the trail meanders downhill, it appears you are leaving the boulders.    The trail will wrap left again and a sharp inclined boulder face will be seen sticking up, overhanging beside of the trail. To the far right of the main face you will find the yellow trail blaze that gives the problem its namesake. Lower and to the right there is a bisecting crack/crevasse/deep diagonal line. On the right side of this line is where you sit start, matched on a protruding jug. Heel hook and move left to use the tiny crimps on either side (within inches) of the yellow painted blaze. From the tiny little crimps, make a large move further left to gain better crimp rails, and then into jugs.    Use massive ledge jugs to continue up the face to top out to the right of the tallest portion of the boulder.

Shanghai Blaze

Shang-High Expectations

Dark Knight

Shang-High Low Ball

Shang-High Noon

Shang-High Knight

Shang-High Hopes

Shang-Low Blow

Shang-High Boulder:

 So good, but be confidant you can climb this and have a spotter and pads!  

  When at the Shang High boulder look up and left to the detached boulder face up the hill from the main face. There will be a giant slab below the overhanging face serving as a patio to stand upon.  

  Start low matched with a heel hook on the massive sharp edges shelf. Toss right up to the low portion of the jagged thin crack on the face with a right. Follow up with a left to gain a far good sidepull on the crack. Finish on the big knob on middle of the faces lip. Top out easily

When looking at the Shang Boulder, find the long thin diagonal crack/seam mid-face. The right portion (above Shanghai Knight v6 is a massive crack/jug/shelf, but as you follow the crack down and left it becomes a tiny, thin, feint crimp seam for the start) Follow this to its left end to find the start. 

  The left hand crimp has a "good" two finger pockety crimp portion, the right hand is an undercling/sidepull and is right facing. 

  This is a stand start. 

  Pull on and explode out right to the gaston crimp rail, and traverse through the crack to the right link into and finish as per "Shanghai Knight". 

Shang-High Boulder:  

  To the very far right of the Shang High boulder face.  

  To the far right of the Shanghigh boulder the face becomes lowball and curves back away from the trail a bit. At the point where the boulder turns back there is a blunt arête. Sit underneath it and work up through pinchy sidepulls to a solid top out. Easy and fund to burnout of warm up on.  

  Do this one only if you have done everything else on the face. 

Shang-High Boulder:  

  Walk past the "S.L.S." Boulder along the Listening Rock trail.    As the trail meanders downhill, it appears you are leaving the boulders.    The trail will wrap left again and a sharp inclined boulder face will be seen sticking up, overhanging beside of the trail. This is where you will find "Shang-High Hopes".    It starts to the far left of the main overhanging face.  

  This problem is a lip traverse from left to right starting as the furthest left point of the main face where you can sit start and just to the right of the next small craggy segment of boulder.  

  Sit start matched on slopers and link to the better hands to the right. Follow the lip to gain a good foot ledge and use the massive jug section to top out with high above a bad landing.

Shang-High Boulder:

 sit start on the lowest two, shallow, inward facing vertical side-pull rails. feet are on any good edges you can find. Bump and follow your way up these side pull crimp rails that run out four feet up. From here, charge up and dyno far up to the lip above you. Press up onto the larger ledge and follow the line up to the top of the boulder. 

 Alt-Beta: Layback the left crack off the start and work straight up. Finish as per standard beta.

Shang-High Boulder:  

  Walk past the "S.L.S." Boulder along the Listening Rock trail.    As the trail meanders downhill, it appears you are leaving the boulders.    The trail will wrap left again and a sharp inclined boulder face will be seen sticking up, overhanging beside of the trail. This is where you will find "Shang-High Day".    It sit starts in the middle of the face, matched on the vertical left facing incut slot (the left sidepull on Shang-High Knight). Toss a right hand up to a smaller left facing gaston high above. Bump the right hand again to the more distant jug ledge.  

  From the ledge, toss left up to a smaller but positive ledge and set up for a long toss left to a small finger jug. Move up to the massive jug rail to gain a top out above a scary landing.

Really fun! 

  Shang-Low Block:  

  Find the low deep, big jug flake for your left hand, and use either the small right crimp, or the further crimp thumb-catch combo for your right hand. Heel hook to pull up off the start.  

  Bump hand up to the blocks lip, and traverse through good and small hands up and left to the far tip, topping out at the point where the block curves back on the fantastic jug lip.

 This boulder is tall, steep, and enticing with an excellent landing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shanghai Boulder