Right of

Slippery Nipple

, Piece of the Action has had 3 additional bolts added to it since the first ascent. A more direct finish as well as an extra bolt near the crux now make this one of the best 5.10s on The Quarry Wall.  5 bolts and gear up to 2".

Update- 3-20-11.

Piece of the Action

Not Even

For Better or Worse

No Pressure

5.8, My Ass

Crossed Fingers

Alien Heads

River Dance

Event Horizon

Undertow

Chockstone Chimney

Practice Roof

Sidewinder

Smashing

Whale Shark

The Waffle

Slippery Nipple

Pulp Friction

Bucking Chute

Dig the Groove

Bundle of Fleece

The Rodeo

Glenfiddich

Hang'n Ten on the Wall of Glen

Slippery Nipple starts in the yellow wall about 20 feet to the right of the black face with the bolted line,

Not Even

. A corner system can be laybacked and protected with small wires or cams for 30 feet. Exit the lay back to a sub-vertical face and half a dozen bolts. Fine, thin, edge climbing for close to 50 feet will gain a double bolt anchor. The climbing here feels a lot like Devil's Head with continuous moves that never really deliver a distinct crux.  Two stars for the excellent stone, good continuity, great sun, and an introduction to Thunder Ridge.

This is on the black face between

Slippery Nipple

and Undertow (right-leaning dihedral).  Climb up fun plates to a stopper crux climbing through a blank section.  Reach the crux plate, then continue on jugs to the anchors at 70 feet.

This route may have been climbed before, so if you did it in the past, I will change the first ascent information.  After doing the lower half of

Crossed Fingers

, you move to the right following a good crack to the right.  The crack is tight hands and takes #1 and 0.75 Camalots.  This is the route's crux.  The crack going up on the right is easier.  I would bet this climb has been done before.

No Pressure is a new line that climbs up beautiful features in a lonely, white face with black streaks on either side. Starts juggy, and gets thinner and thinner until you grab a muffin to clip the anchors.

This was my first route that I've put up at Thunder.  Bolted it on lead from free stances, but had previously top roped the route a week prior to the lead to find bolt placements. With that said, I want to thank Kirsten for her patience, and support of my love for Thunder. Also Kevin and Glen for being so supportive of new climbers at the Ridge.

Enjoy.

This is on the right side of the wall. It uses 3 bolts - then small gear. It is smearing down low -thin face style.

Crossed Fingers ascends the finger/hand crack that trends left.  When the crack/dihedral becomes slabby, step up and right onto the three downward-facing, fingers of rock.  Diagonal right to cross the fingers and continue up the easy climbing to the anchor.

This is on the right side of wall. It uses two bolts, pro to 2 1/2 inches. This is a good route.

River Dance meanders up the cascading water streak following the natural weaknesses on the left and right sides of the streak.  It provides slab climbing with plenty of rests and a few, short steeper sections.  The start of the climb and the first bolt is shared with

Alien Heads

.  A 5.8 leader will appreciate this well-protected route.

Event Horizon lies in the Waffle Wall region of this face. Uphill from

Slippery Nipple

is another black streak and just before this streak is a bolted, near vertical face with bolts. This is Event Horizon. Climb past half a dozen bolts to a double bolt anchor on thin edges and flakes. A bit spooky, Event Horizon is a bolted face put up by some rough-riding tradsters and gives away its pro only after you haul up and take it. Two stars for excellent edge climbing, high continuity,  on a largely vertical wall. Like

Slippery Nipple

, Event Horizon seems to deliver more continuous edge pulling at the 5.11 level without generating any truly hard move; however, several sections seemed to be solid 5.11c for several moves. A solid fun route that gets great sun.

Smack dab in the middle of the Quarry Wall, and very obvious from the hike in, is a large flake that resembles the profile of a person looking to the South. Undertow follows this flake / right-facing corner to a bolted anchor near the top of the wall. The climb is a good mix of smearing, laybacking, jamming, and powerful underclings.

There's an optional two-bolt start that joins the route after the initial undercling, but the complete flake, starting at the base, makes for a more continuous climb.

Climb the chimney past 3 chockstones. There are great cracks on the right or left for pro. Exit up and right through a roof, very fun, then step left to the anchors on

Crossed Fingers

.

Find the overhanging roof cracks in the alcove on the right (South) side of Quarry Wall.  Going further to your right would take you to the For Real Canyon.  The first two thirds of the route goes at 5.6, and the business is short, but stout.  There are three options for surmounting the roof, and all go at around the same difficulty.  Easily protected and fun.

This climbs past one bolt to curving cracks. It shares anchors with

Waffle

.

Per

Glenn Schuler

: the start of this climb got ruined by the Hayman Fire. The clipping jug is no more. The bolt needs to be relocated. The best way to start the climb now is traversing left from the same start as

The Waffle

.

Left end of wall, right angling tips crack thru overhang and up seam.

There is on a piece of the Buttermilks nestled right in the South Platte.

It is a semi-highball, vert/slab masterpiece.

Thin edges, foot smears, and some balancing get you setup for fun toss to the lip.

This is a classic for the area!

Climb up the waffled rock to the left of

Pulp Friction

.  Start in a small corner, place some small gear then pull onto the slab above.  Find some interesting nut placements and creative sling work to protect the featured rock as you angle up and left to anchors at 70 feet.

Follow the line of bolts along the obvious, black, water streak. Excellent climbing on chicken heads and edges will lead you to the anchors.

Bucking Chute is wrangled dead center between the Rodeo and Slippery Nipple on the right side of the Quarry Wall. Start by laying-back a left facing bulging crack to a horizontal undercling. Make some exciting chicken-head mantle combo moves to the crack that diverts from Slippery Nipple. Slippery Nipple line departs right shortly before Bucking Chute meets the prominent lie-back crack that splits the right Quarry Wall. Follow the crack until it ends and then follow the three bolt line through exciting slab moves. Continue up through a roof protected by a #2 or #3 camalot and go to the Slippery Nipple anchor.

Climb the shallow groove/crack up the black water streak to the first bolt.  Pull the crux moves through the bulge to a second bolt.  Enjoy the perfect knobby face climbing to the top!

Bundle of Fleece starts on the steep slab between

Piece of the Action

and

5.8, My Ass

.  Smear your way up to the first bolt, and continue up easier ground past a couple well spaced bolts to a stance above an overlap.  A few more smears take you to the big flake with optional small gear.  Climb past one more bolt, and finish at an independent anchor atop a short handcrack.

Shoot-Dang-Man, put on your favorite belt buckle and hold on tight, this here be a bucker!  This pitch will test your technique, and then fry your power at the top.  Excellent rock with great climbing, make this thing a true classic. Yee-haw!

Begin with jugs up to a bulge. Balance and finesse your way over the bulge and up steep, thin slab.  As the route gets steeper, the holds get better, but further apart.  The crux comes at the steepest part of the black streak involving big moves with smeary feet. Everything up to this point is very sustained.  A few more hard moves deposit you at a rest before fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor.

This route starts on the two bolt optional start to

Undertow

, then you place a piece or two in the crack on a long sling, and pull up and left over the corner of the roof to gain the bolt line the follows the arête up to the

Undertow

anchors.

This is somewhat tough to establish above the roof but the real difficulties are climbing through the next 3 bolts or so. It is continuous and techy.

This route shares the start with

The Waffle

, then goes straight up past several bolts to a ramp angling right.  Hang Ten, then crank over the bulge to the top of the wall.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Quarry