Sit start on the left side of the overhanging wall on some good edges. Make a big move up Lefty then span out right to a sidepull. Move in lefty to another crimp then thrutch out righty to a bad sloping sidepull and execute a big bump to a meat wraplike pinch. A hard match followed by a few more long moves gains the top of the boulder.A little history of this climb. My brother, Troy, was working "Lord of the Dance" and I had a vision for a climb to the left from a stand start. I scrubbed it up for about half an hour and cleaned it off before I tried it. I could never figure out a sequence that worked and it felt very difficult. I showed the line to Troy and he didn't think it was climbable and didn't try it at all.About a year or so later, Troy sent me a video of Zach Galla climbing "Brass Knuckles". I was in shock and psyched to see that somebody else believed in the climb that I saw, scrubbed and tried. The line I had scrubbed ended up being the end sequence of the V14.

Brass Knuckles

Lord of the Dance

Capoeira

Riverdance

Head Smacking Sound

Twiggy Short

Disco Devil

Dancing Queen

Sarcophagus

Stankins

Lord Stand Direct

This line was previously done as a solid V11. But after a climber matched a thin hold after a rainstorm, the hold gave way and broke. Multiple times. The breakage left behind a slopey three-four finger gaston which is very difficult to power off of. 

 For those looking to try something very hard, other than "Dancing Queen" and "The Whole Shebang", sit-start on a decent crimp edge in front of the large rock. Pull on and move right hand up to a big gaston before firing up to the slopey left-hand gaston (the broken hold). From this hold, execute a very powerful left-hand bump move to a bad hold, or find the friction and lock it off and move righty up to the bad hold, before bumping to a sloping pinch. Match this pinch then dyno out left to a good hold. Once here topout on big holds direct or out right.

A unique start from the left into "Riverdance". Sit start and make hard right hand move to a sidepull crimp. From here make some hard tension moves into "Riverdance".

Start sitting just above the water on a good right hand and a slightly smaller left hand. Pull on and trend leftwards up the bulge into Riverdance and finish up that problem. Adds about four or five moves into the V9. Super good compression climbing in an all-time location. If you can climb the grade and like to squeeze, step up!

A superb compression problem on bulletproof holds. Squat start low on a left hand crimp and right hand lower on a sloper crimp. Pull on with a slick foot or campus the first move up right hand before utilizing a left heel to gain the higher lefthand holds. From here figure out how to reach the jugs and then topout on good holds. 

Stand start. Climb slopers up the short boulder.

Sit start the low left side of the boulder and traverse the sloping rail to its apex and mantle.

The direct to "Capeoira". Sit start at the base of the arete. Pull on a move upwards via water polished seams and slopers to an exciting top above the river.

The longest problem on the boulder. Starts 4 or 5 moves below Lord of the Dance. Start matched on the lowest obvious hold just before the waters edge with a big first move and climb into Lord. Sometimes water level can be an issue.

Stand start. Climb up the middle of the slabby boulder.

Stand start high on the obvious large diagnol undercling rail/pinch. Pull onto the wall using biceps and some hard foot pressure along with core. Execute a few really fun and burly moves up left to some slopers and then hit a jug out right before topping out in v1 terrain.

Right on the river, this location is 4 stars by itself. Beautiful and secluded with a mostly flat landing. There are many problems on this boulder and the smaller boulders surrounding it. The descent down to the base of the boulder is slightly sketchy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Riverdance Boulder