Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters left of

Conn's East Direct

and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.

The Changeling

Time Flies

Off Broadway Show

Terra Firma Homesick Blues

Pancho and Lefty

Orangeaid

Talbert Picklefish

Orion’s Belt Direct Finish

Discontent

Heavy Fuel

Grand Finale

Conn's East Lieback Variation

Hopeful Illusions Direct Finish

Terminal Velocity

Hopeful Illusions

Kid Galahad and the Sunshine Boys

Natural Mystic

Conn's East Direct

Conn's East

East Face to Gunsight Notch

Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall

Icing on the Cake

Low Octane

Spock's Brain

The Vision

Dinah Moe-Hum

Pollux

Nip and Tuck

Frosted Flake

Lunge or Plunge

Rasp

Hidden Assets

Alcoa Presents

Dirty Old Man

Castor

Hamburger

Soler - Variation: Soler Escape

Soler

Pickleright

High Test

Put A Wiggle In Your Stride

Same start as The Changeling, 20ft right of Conn’s East. Climb the shallow right facing corner straight up, following the thin shallow cracks. When the cracks end instead of moving far left to the other corner under the tree, continue straight up until you’re directly under the right side of the small roof. Pull the roof and finish at the top of the Conn’s East flake.

This is a great, underrated (in terms of quality) pitch.  Begin up Conn's East but after a short distance move across the face right to a bolt.  Climb up past two more bolts and then continue to the top of the Soler flake system.  Spicy!

Climb the crack to the horizontal break.  Move out left to the arete and corner and pull up onto the small ledge.  Climb the lovely, exposed arete and corner, getting gear in the corner as you go.  Where the corner ends, set a piece with a long runner in a horizontal crack and then move up and left on easy ledges to a two-bolt anchor shared with Hamburger.

Fine climbing and a good old school route. Runout is least of worries if you can do the crux. Climb crack in corner to end, then left to crack (5.11) up to bold face moves (5.10 PG). There may be cold shuts @ 100', these were not there in '86 when I lead it.

Four bolt sport line, left of "Lunge or Plunge".

Follow the orange streak left of Alcoa Presents through intermittent finger cracks to the roof, then step right and follow good jugs to bolt anchors just below the summit. Going left at the roof is possible, but harder.

Start at the end of the first pitch of Soler.

#1. Downclimb the flake until it is possible to traverse out left to the obvious crack. Move left about 8 feet to reach the crack. Follow the crack straight up. (90 ft.)

Eddie Begoon originally told me about this variation to Orion’s Belt and that he had tried it once but never got around to coming back and sending it. To our knowledge this is a new FA.

Starting on the shallow left facing corner just above Castor, climb Orion’s Belt, but instead of heading to the crack left of the third bolt, continue straight up into a thin incipient crack. Jam fingers and smear feet to make a powerful long move to a crimp, quickly find a crystal to put your foot on to make another crimpy sequence followed by a powerful move up and right to a jug, then continue through easy terrain to the anchors.

The crux protects well, but it is a bit runout to the first bolt.  You can get a .4 BD cam right below the finger lock, there is also a micro stopper placement after the crimpy sequence but it is hard to place when you’re pumped and it’s easier to just keep moving. The crux moves are a bit reachy and maybe height dependent.

This route is a bomb. Current rating is 5.6R, the previous guidebook rated it 5.4

[1st pitch]

The route follows a series of flakes up and left. Traversing left from the start aways looks like the easiest route. Eventually there is a small right facing corner and a tree. Above that is the ledge for the traverse pitch of  "Old Ladies Route."

[2nd Pitch] Not sure where this goes, or why you would want to climb it. Probably easy ground leading up to the cockscomb.

Some of the best hard face climbing Seneca has to offer! Climb the start of High Test to reach the sickle ledge. From the ledge head straight up following a line of 4 bolts past incredibly thin, and delicate moves that don’t let up until the very end. The route finishes on a small ledge about 10-15ft up and left of the last bolt. Save a .5, .75, and a #1 to build an anchor on the ledge in the corner.

Start on the Alcoa Presents ledge. Move left of Orangeaid approximately 15 feet to a right facing flake and crack system. Climb the flake and crack, then trend slightly left up the face just before the end of the flake. Finally, head right on easy ground just below the summit to belay on a fixed chain anchor right (north) of the true summit." However - there are actually two ways to finish the pitch. Moving slightly left just before the flake ends (as described above) is easier and safer, and is what most people do to finish. Staying with the flake system, and moving up and right past the end of the flake offers harder climbing and NO gear until a short vertical slot for a bomber cam about 15 feet above the very end of the flake - borderline R rated.

This is indeed an Old School 5.9+ - we all know what that means! I agree that it really is every bit of 5.10b, and frankly even harder to hang around on and place gear on than Orangeaid.

Begin 6 feet right of the Conn's East traditional start, head nearly straight up through the Conn's East steep lieback variation. It crosses the usual Conn's East after the first flake and ends at the start of P2 of Soler. Continue right for P2 of Conn's or head straight up into Soler.

Significantly less rope drag than Conn's East and good when a line has formed.

Start about 10 feet to the right of the Soler flake and about 6 feet left of the Conn's East corner beneath a small left facing corner.

#1. Climb the face past the left facing corner up incipient cracks about 25 feet to a horizontal crack. Move right and up, using a small flake, into small lichen covered cracks. Follow the cracks up to and over a bulge. Continue up to belay. Finish on any other route.

Start same as The Changeling.

#1. Climb the face to the left of the corner to a small right facing corner with a small bush (maybe). Above the corner climb the face via shallow cracks. At this point the bolts on The Changeling are about 10-12 ft to the right. From the ends of the cracks move up and left to a small bush. Climb a left facing corner then move up to Conn's East. (90 ft.)

Finish on Conn's East.

From the bolts atop Frosted Flake, head directly up to the bolt on the face above.  Step right from the bolt and move up to bulging rock and good gear.  Traverse left into the overhang and more good gear.  Pull the overhang and continue straight up.  Moving directly up from the bolt into the overhang would probably make this PG/PG13.

Thanks Seth and Justin for replacing the old Leeper.  Quality 5.9 route.

From the top of Soler's first pitch (the shuts) - climb up to bolt, over small bulge, past some gear and 2 more bolts. Shuts at top. Another one of Tom's seldom climbed routes that deserves more attention :)

Short route with a bouldery start, most parties only climb the first 30 feet of the first pitch and then TR. The crux of the route is right off of the ground. After about 10 feet there is a corner and crack system. Pull a few moves to reach a ledge with bolts. Or continue up the left facing corner and past a couple ledges unto you reach the spacious Conn's East belay ledge.

This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face; it crosses and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.

Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge/corner system with a couple of trees about halfway up (good optional belay in a crack behind the trees on a ledge). Pass the trees, move up a chimney and then the face a long ledge.  Traverse right on the ledge to a set of anchors at the far end.  There is a set of anchors when you first come up but skip these and keep going right on the ledge.

Pitch 2: Plug some good gear right off the ledge and climb the short imposing corner up and out to the right, aiming for an obvious pin. Pass the pin and use big jugs to move up to another ledge large ledge.  Traverse right on the ledge to either set of bolt anchors (the right set is more convenient for P3) This short pitch is the main crux of the route.

Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious wide crack/flake and corner system that widens to a chimney at the top and ends at a large block stuck in the top.  Work up this and sort out the top out moves to surmount the block.  Move a bit right and build a belay near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak.

Pitch 4: A few final moves will get you to the summit.  Traverse carefully along the ledge to the south and make a belay at the south end near the summit register box.

There are two obvious ways up to Gunsight Notch.

The preferable way is to climb on top of the exposed flake and crack system. This protects well.

You can also climb the ledge below the flake and crack system, which is what's left of Upper Broadway Ledge, through a medium-sized tree. This approach does not protect as well and disturbs the tree.

Begin a few feet right of

Conn's East Direct

and climb up the face towards a yellow patch of blocky rock.  Continue up along small cracks, then traverse left and continue up the larger crack system to the top.

Just left of Put a Wiggle in Your Stride, climb the broken ledges through easier terrain to the left leaning crack. Place a few pieces of gear in the crack and follow it up to a small ledge just below the first bolt. Although the climbing is easy through here a fall before the first bolt might end poorly. Clip the first bolt and get ready for series of sustained and cryptic crimp moves until shortly after the second bolt. Then run it out through the lichen to the top, try not to let the pump get the better of you here, a fall from the top could be pretty big, if your belayer isn’t paying attention.

In my opinion, the route is right on par with Put a Wiggle in Your Stride. With that said, I do think the crux is a bit harder, but the overall climbing is less sustained.

Start at the top of a large block.  Place some gear and climb the shallow left facing corner/crack system as it diagonals up and to the left.  As the crack system ends, place a good piece (blue alien or similar) and make a long reach to a good jug (crux). Mantle up and follow the crack system to join High Test just above and to the right of the sickle shaped ledge.  This is a great variation on High Test with only one hard move for the grade.

Start by climbing a shallow right facing corner to it's end.  At this point, follow the thin crack systems heading slightly to the right and then back left.  You will hit a point where you are about 10 Ft under an obvious jug.  At this point you will be forced to leave your gear and gun it to the good hold(crux).  After this, head to the shuts.  This route has surprisingly good  gear, as long as your cool with micronuts and very small cams.  This is a good choice for breaking into the 5.11 grade at Seneca.

From

Seneca The Climber's Guide Second Edition

by Tony Barnes:

"Begin on the same ledge as

OrangeAid

and

Alcoa

.

Climb the face several feet to the right of

Alcoa

. Aim for the orange-colored rock. Climb the orange rock up and to the left, aiming for the summit."

Start below a thin crack at the right edge of a clean broken area. This route goes up and right of the obvious flake which lies on the left side of the broken area.

#1. Climb the thin cracks and face on the outer edge of the broken area. (50 ft.)

Pollux is shorter but more sustained than the neighboring crack

Castor

. One follows the crack system up about 35 feet, to where it splits. Either way is about the same difficulty. After reaching the large ledge traverse right to anchors. A directional for the second right below the ledge might be appreciated.

The route begins at the far right end of the Broadway Ledge.  Climb up from the right side of a block and follow incipient cracks up and left through bulging rock.

One of the easier 5.9s at Seneca. Frosted flake begins above the Upper Broadway Chimneys to the right of "Dirty Old Mans Route." Climb up the obvious right tending flake system. Pull over the bulge to reach a possible belay or continue up the right facing Corner.

The climb starts just right of Pancho and Lefty. Climb the obvious left facing corner to a show stopping crux. You can lunge for the good hold (make sure you have a good belayer, it’s close to the ground) or choose to make the extremely difficult but static moves up the arete of the corner, interspersed with a few small crimps on the face. Once you’ve stuck this move don’t celebrate too much because the climb isn’t over yet. At the top of the corner make a few more hard compression moves towards the bolt. Clip it and pull up on to the nice ledge. The climbing from here backs off significantly but is very unprotected.

On the first ascent attempts Cal Swoager was the plunger.

Compared to other 5.11d’s at Seneca this one feels a little bit extra sandbagged, but nevertheless a very fun and challenging route to figure out. I’m not sure if this is R or PG-13 but if you’re doing the lunge you’re very close to ground fall territory and after you’ve reach the ledge above the bolt there is very little gear to the top.

This route was (accidentally?) retro-bolted a number of years back and personally I think it's a great addition as the previous route warranted at least an R if not X rating.

Start on the face just left of Dirty Old Man. Climb the face past 4 bolts and a couple of gear placements to the top and a new two-bolt anchor.  Fairly sustained climbing on sharp in-cut holds. Rock quality is little suspect towards the top.

Atypical for Seneca, this all bolted route is still well worth climbing.  It is aptly named as you will find if you climb it.  Begin as for Soler and climb up into the first pitch wide section then traverse left to the first bolt.  Id recommend not placing any gear before the bolt to avoid rope drag but this does get heady.  Follow bolts to shuts.

From the large belay ledge at the top of Conns East Direct (also the start of Orangeaid) belay from anchors on right and climb crack with large aluminum piton in it (hence the name) to summit crest.

P1: Climb up the short wall to a small ledge beneath the large corner/flake. Climb the corner/flake to a good ledge. You can move up and a bit right to the wall and build a gear belay or move further right to a belay at bolts. If you use the bolts, beware of rope drag.

To finish, continue up the large right facing corner above, which is P2 of Old Ladies Excitement.  This was previously and erroneously called DOM's 2nd pitch.

According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.

The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents).

Climb the crack up to some blocky holds and the first bolt (gear possible before the bolt). Move a little left and up on nice incut holds to the second bolt.  Make a couple of reachy moves and move up to larger holds. Cruise up the easier terrain to the two-bolt anchor.

There's no gear after the second bolt but the crux is right there too and once past the crux, the route backs off to much easier terrain.

Using the two-bolt, it is possible to top-rope several other options to start to the route further down and left.  These add about 10-15 ft to the route.

From the top of the first pitch of Soler climb out and left to the base of a grungy looking orange crack. Climb the crack past the overhang to a tree. Climb past the tree to the summit ledge. (75 ft.)

The second pitch of this climb is one of the most classic pitches at Seneca!  Amazingly, it was first done in 1951!  P1:  Climb the wide corner/flake sytem to reach a left trending ramp.  The first 30 feet can be a bit runout unless you have very large gear.  However, with modern camming units, there is gear that can be found in the flake if you search hard for it.  Don't let people scare you off because of the tales of runout here.  You will be well rewarded by doing the entire route.  P2:  Climb up from the large ledge to access an overhanging crack system.  Follow this crack system to the top.  The moves here are absolutely amazing for the grade and the gear is anywhere you want to put it.  If you are visiting Seneca, do this route.

Climb the Talbert Picklefish crack until it possible to to follow cracks to the right. Move up to the summit ledge.

A maximum value experience not to be missed.  You will find a bit of everything on this classic which has been described by at least one experienced regular as a "great 5.9 with a 5.11 crux".   Your experience may vary but you will definitely consider an ascent worth your time.

Not recommended for a 5.9 leader.

Climb the thin crack (cruxy), traverse right then stem up the left-facing corner(strenuous) and finally face climb past the bulge to the top.

Climb the steep, crimpy face left of Frosted Flake past 4 bolts. Sustained and steep.

There used to be a hold down low before the first bolt where you could get gear but this broke off a number of years back.  Doesn't really change the grade per se...changes the pucker factor though.  Just imagine being Eddie Begoon and sending this rig in style...badass.

You can rig a TR for this off the Frosted Flake bolts. Climb Frosted Flake (5.9) or Dirty Old Man (5.6) to reach the anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Upper Broadway