Meathook is basically the direct start to

Left Eliminator

.

The original Holloway version (V-a million?) started below the obvious underclings and somehow got into them without using the dihedral to the right. Dave Twinam managed to repeat this with the use of the dihedral, after getting beta from Steve Mammen. Mammen was also the first to repeat the upper half starting from the underclings off the boulder to the right, which Holloway called "Cheathook" (V9).

Meathook

Right Eliminator Prow

Right Eliminator SDS

Beached Whale

Sitting Moon

Left Eliminator

Right Eliminator

East Face

The Bastard Moon (originally named Haley's Arete)

Dogleg Crack

Eliminator North Slab Center

Eliminator North Slab Right

Mammen Traverse

Eliminator Cave Crack

Corner Lunge

Right Eliminator Left

Verm's Way

The Moon Arete

Left Eliminator SDS

Left Crack (a.k.a. Biercrack)

Day 0 Starter

Right Eliminator Super Left

East Eliminator Traverse

Climbs the dogleg crack on the NW corner of the Eliminator Boulder, same crack that Left Eliminator and Meathook finish on. Start on the far left (N) side of the West face and climb up on jugs into the horizontally traversing crack. After reaching the dogleg in the crack reach back inside the crack for more positive holds. More of a faceclimb on a crack then a crack climb. Watch out for the block below on the last moves = don't fall.

From

Alan Nelson

: On the left side of the north face of the Eliminator Boulder is a shallow crack. Face climb along this feature to a distant top out. There's a good pad zone beneath it to protect the most interesting moves near the bottom. Messing up the easier moves above would be hazardous to your health.

Eds. note, this is a combination of descriptions to reduce duplication within the database.

This ultra classic may be my favorite problem ever.  Same start as standard R. Elim. but after reaching the left layaway, climb on up the prow.  Brilliant moves, sweet position, and it always makes me grin from ear to ear.

Right Eliminator SDS is a pure, uncontrived sit start that packs a punch.

Start on your arse with your left hand on a big sidepull and your right hand on a lower hold. Finish on any of the Right Eliminator variations.

This problem is near the cave on the Eliminator. It starts on a big jug and goes up over the overhang to a two finger pocket. Then go up left to a slope and try to top out. Hope you don't get beached. Ben can't do it.

This is the sit start to Moon Arete on the Southwest corner of the Eliminator Boulder.

Yet another 'bolder' problem at Rotary Park.  Begin near the left side of the west face of the Eliminator Boulder.  Grab the only hold on the face with your right hand, grab a rounded corner with your left, get your feet up, and lunge way left for the obvious crack.  Getting there is the easy part, holding on and controlling your swing is the key.  Once you're back under control, get a foot in the crack, and pull up on jugs to the top.

Harder folks will do this static.  Showboat types will do a double dyno.  I've seen folks fall on this without a TR, and it is a scary sight.  I used the TR setup for the Horsetooth Hang, and got the problem relatively easily, such that I doubt the V5 grade.  But, this is one that I just can't ever see myself doing ropeless - it is even more committing than the Pinch as far as I'm concerned.

Climb the classic SW arete of the Eliminator boulder on the West face.  Jump, lockoff, or otherwise crank from the crimps up to lefthand layback, then up (easiest variation grabs arete then grabs traingle and up from there).  Eliminator boulder is the largest one, just downhill from the parking lot, 15 yards from the ridgeline.

This is a good easy warm-up for the area. On the right side of the east face, there is a jug low on the wall. Start there and climb up the face on small holds to the top of the boulder. There are fun balance moves in the middle. The topout is a bit of a reach.

Start the same as

The Moon Arete

, (left hand on the arête, right hand on a sidepull), but bump out left to a crimp, right up to the tiny sidepull crimp, then left again to the jug on

Right Eliminator

.  Top out same as moon arete.

This is a classic "easy" old school highball problem.  There's a nice pad zone underneath, but you'll still be high enough to hurt yourself if you come off the top.  In the middle of the north face of the Eliminator boulder is a little black marble two or three feet above the ground.  Above it are some slightly rightward trending seams.  Head up the face using those features and a variety of smears and high steps.  Don't fall from the top.

This is a nice and spooky steep face problem at the human end of the V-scale.  Falling off is a hazardous proposition, since there is stuff to bounce off.  On the right side of the north face of the Eliminator boulder is a small left-facing offset that turns into a sloping shelf to the right.  The offset and the shelf are "off-route", so feel free to use them if initimidated by the problem.  Just left of the offset are some polished patches of stone.  Step up on these and head for the top a long ways away.  The hardest bits come early, but it doesn't ease much as you gather air beneath your heels.

Low traverse in the cave of Beached Whale on the Eliminator Boulder. Very fun problem.  Tricky toe jam in the crack. It starts on a low undercling to the right of beached whale, and tops out on the Beached Whale slopers. Very fun problem!!!

Match in the starting undercling of

Mammen Traverse

, but jam into and up the crack, utilizing a couple footholds on the face.  Extra points for making the tight topout look pretty.

Start with hands matched on good start hold on the right side of the south face of the boulder. Go left to jug and heel hook right foot onto the starting handhold.  Lunge up to the arete to a sticky sloper.   Finish by using remaining edges to top out.

This Gill Arrow (squint right and you can still see it!) variation is superb.  Crank the standard R. Elim. start to the triangle jug, then move left to another jug and then climb a couple of insecure holds to a bomber topout.

On the Eliminator boulder's SE corner are several slap variations.  To the left is the cave crack.  Grab a left sidepull above and right of the crack and a right sidepull on the face near the slap problems.  Past the left foot in the crack or somewhere's like that and crank up right on the sloping top.  Keep cranking and mantel on up.  Name reference from Hang book.  Certainly height dependent.

This is on the other side of the arete from the three jump start eliminator problems.  Start with the left hand on the arete, right on a sidepull. Get a high left heel, and bump the left hand up the arete, then cross right into a pinch and finish up the arete.

Start matched on large undercling or on the detached block same as

Meathook

. Make a series of large spans into

Left Eliminator

.

On the north face of Eliminator, a right-slanting crack runs from bottom to top. This is the route.

Finding the right feet on the first few moves off the ground make the crux. Otherwise, it's low-angle, slabby climbing with good hands in and around the crack.

This is a nice, little warm-up for this area. The crux is the first two starting moves. There are good holds throughout the boulder. You can make it more challenging by playing a game of eliminator.

Be forewarned, this is a stupid, silly eliminate, but it climbs well.

Climb

Right Eliminator Left

until you reach the left horn. The prow above you is off, that leaves the crimp and way up left before you will find any other reasonable holds. The crux is one move, a long move, and the holds you are chucking to are sharp. You have been warned. Giddyup.

You can traverse from the start of

Beached Whale

to the crack on the N side of the Eliminator. A few scrunched moves get one around the corner from

Beached Whale

(cruxy) then it is very easy (walking) for fifteen feet. The middle of the face is easier higher up, I recommend staying literally inches off the ground through this section to make it more interesting with small holds for both hands and feet. The final crux comes pulling around the last part of the face and rolling onto the NE corner of the Eliminator Boulder. Once again, you should only be at most 2 feet off the ground on some small edges and sidepulls here. Finish up the crack for a nice long outing. A nice slabby workout.

Description

Protection

Routes in Eliminator Boulder