Climb all of Dazed, then follow two bolts to break into Love Triangle and take it to the top.

A Certain Style

True Romance

Dazed and Confused

The Falconer

Mud Falcon

Girly But Burly

Love Triangle

Brown Ambition

Dazed

Mildly Concussed

Blonde Ambition

Skipping the start of Dazed makes for a very fun 5.10 warmup. Stem up the chimney to the first bolt of Love Triangle, hang a long Draw on it and step across to the jugs above the boulder problem on Dazed. Climb the fun, juggy dihedral to the midway anchor.

 A contender for one of the longest pitches of sport climbing in the Northeast, True Romance is an endurance test piece among a small group of endurance test pieces. Climb all the difficulties of Girly But Burly, then skip the last bolt to cut left at the arch into a dwindling crack feature that offers some nice hand jams. Rest as well as you can and gear up for a powerful and cryptic heartbreaker just before the chains. 

Linkup: After climbing Dazed, continue up the pumpy second half of Girly but Burly. A 60m might not get you down.

Start at a sharp arete feature that leads up and right to some large jugs, then follow a short, sometimes wet, mossy crack that leads to a slab and a weird anchor encounter. If the crack is wet or the top sounds ugly, see "Mud Falcon".

This serves as a possibly better warm-up for the fingers than the falconer, and is a nice way to hang draws on Blonde Ambition. Climb the Falconer to it's 4th bolt at the gigantic jug, then diagonal directly on flakey sidepulls to the last bolt on Blonde Ambition. Continue up Blonde Ambition for a few more pumpy moves to it's anchor.Traversing too low will put this solidly in the 11- range.

The only bad part about this route is its name, and the seepage. Start off right with a fierce technical dihedral heading a steep wall with big holds separated by big weird moves. A few wish-you-were-bigger crimps are tossed in the mix as you fight a mid-route redpoint crux to the no-hands rest at the Dazed anchor. Continue up large flakes to tricky section around a pocket, and a final looming redpoint crux through the arch. If you weren't black-out pumped on this one it's time to get on Love Triangle!

Undeniably the absolute best sport climb the Notch has to offer.This long and sustained line has three puzzling and unique cruxes that will all yield to good beta and well timed rests. Redpoint attempts can take thirty minutes or more. New England offers very little in the way of this style of fitness climbing making this line is a great summer project for those looking to get away from slippery crimps further south, or anyone trying to build endurance for their fall season. 

An easier start to Blonde Ambition, stick clip the third bolt on that route. Grab hold of the starting jugs of The Falconer and hand traverse right to the humongous jug on Blonde Ambition. Continue up Blonde Ambition. 

Climb a difficult-for-the-grade, awkward boulder problem to a 5.11- dihedral.

Start on crimps small enough that you'll hope the crux is off the ground, and continue up 4 bolts of weird holds and interesting movements that keep you on your game(including the biggest jug ever found somewhere in there). Stick clip recommended.

Are the heinous boulder problems of Rumney spitting you off before you even have a chance to get your pump on? Falcon Wall's endurance intensive sport climbs should provide some much needed jug hauling respite from the loads of beta that you've been forgetting on your other sport projects.A limited quantity of excellent and sustained hard sport climbing lies on a north facing wall just past the Eaglet. Wetness, dirty/crumbly holds, bugs, and freak conditions can be an issue at the cliff, however the bolts are stainless and the climbing is extremely fun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Falcon Wall