A gently overhung stemming and lay back problem on quartz dykes. Getting established with fat fingers is a challenge. Difficulties seem to ease as you ascend. This could be a very scary boulder problem but I doubt people would bring enough pads to the upper wall. A top rope or TR solo seems legitimate and safe.

All routes at the Lighthouse can be set up for top rope from the base of this route.

Tideline (open Project)

The Ten Yard Fight

Class Action

Rime of the Ancient Mariner

Obsidian

Thicker than Water

Fear of the Dark

Look for the obvious staircase of blocks leading into a tight hand crack. Follow this feature onto a small ledge. Begin moving up and right heading for a large under cling. One may find a dynamic move to a hand-jam. Protect the jam and NOT the huge ringing undercling. A pinch then big reach / dead point to a jug pocket brings you to a stance. Place some smaller gear (offset cams) at the stance. Stand high and find the crimps! Hand over hand on solid crimps flying up and right toward bolts. Clip, then stand up and clip again. A true index crux (improbable incremental feet) to another dead point (much easier if tall). Pull through with a #3 handy for some diagonal cracks and on to an anchor. An impressive onsight that may be easier for the tall. I am not tall.

Fun and overhung.... expect baggy hands with face holds. This crack definitely takes a variety of body parts as you enter and exit. It will eat your rope off the second ledge so plan ahead. Face holds are somewhat key but a little body scumming goes a long way.

A series of well protected balance moves that begin in a shallow right facing corner on perfect Index granite. Good friction the whole way with a crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. The route ends with a reach to jugs through a dyke.

Entirely cleaned from decades of detritus in 2019. All bolts are stainless hardware and their condition 30 years later is testimony to placing quality hardware. Mysteriously, I found no fixed anchors during cleaning, just four bolts leading into oblivion.

Follow bolts up an intriguing face, clear a horizontal shelf and crank up the edge of a left facing corner.

Aim for twin cracks with awesome feet and solid gear. One more bolt then rad moves only granite can provide.

The crux takes about three days of dry weather.

I am working on an extension

Flakes, crytal pockets, dykes and exfoliating incuts make this line feel more like limestone than granite. The biggest challenge will be deciding which line to take for an approach. Either way this pitch has four bolts a couple gear placements (Particularly a #2 after the second bolt) You will find that we chose to place bolts near some possible gear placements. This was intentional as some features of this climb make better climbing than safe protection.

Similar feel to a shorter Cunning stunt.

From the anchors you can climb a variety of short options to top out.

Climb Relevez, 5.9 balance moves aiming for a bolt with optional gear (blue tcu). Climb a short LFC, place gear and continue upward over horizoncal cracks and small ledge features aiming for a golden granite trough. You will see another bolt under a scooping under cling. Climb the edge of a large flake system (super fun) to a stance. Reach out right, clip the bolt and make a dead point move (crux) to a very positive sloping rail then up sustained edges into a beautiful undercling. Traverse right then up through bolt / optional gear to an anchor.

Continuing past this anchor will bring you to a second top-out anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Lighthouse