Excellent single pitch trad route in the center of the main face. Layback a right facing corner (crux) to a roof then transition to a very nice arching finger crack. At the end of the crack work up and right on the face past horizontals to the top of the cliff.

Layback

Sunny Slab Left

Almost Alpine

Unknown Corner

Inside Straight

Bat Cave

Sunny Slab Right

Fire on the Mountain

Relatively short climb beneath a large arette on the climber's left. Begin at a somewhat blank section and climb beneath the arette. Crux section may be getting of the deck with another interesting move about halfway up.

Left of the two bolted routes on the sunny slab. Crux at the second bolt with some thin moves. Some exposure due to the location makes you feel like the route is longer than it is. Optional .4 cam to protect top.

Short and sweet! Climb straight up to the open book, and then climb the corner. Crux is either getting off the ground or exiting the chimney. Climb left or right past the twin birches and then up a dirty, mossy, and blocky groove to the anchor.

Toward the right end of the cliff look for the large corner system with a couple roofs in it that starts at a bottomless corner. Gaining the corner at the start was definitely the crux and definitely harder than 5.6. Climb crack to a mantle then up to final roof. Make an exciting move around the roof at a wide crack then follow dirty low-angle corner to the top. Two bolt anchor.

Five feet to the right of the start of Layback is a nice finger crack that starts ten feet up the cliff climb this to a wide crack/flake. At the end of the crack climb the face past horizontals to the top of the cliff. Excellent route!

Right bolt line on the Sunny Slab. Fun mellow climbing past two bolts to a crack (small cams). 

Starting below the left end of the roof, climb the path of least resistance to get established under the roof. Traverse right under the roof, clip the first bolt (or stick clip from ground), and exit the roof to a stance at the start of the dihedral (crux). Continue up the dihedral past several bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Please note that this is considered a mixed route according to the guidebook. The crux is between the first and second bolts and can be protected with microcams (I used a Metolious #0). 

Land owned/managed by the Monadnock Conservancy.  Much of the maintenance of the trails and hardware is thanks to Monadnock Climbers Association members. Be sure to support them.Two bolted cliffs, one in the shade nearly all day. Total of about 20 bolted routes. Higher cliff gets sun after noonRock is metamorphosed granite with large crystals of feldspar.Pretty solid quality, cracks and flakes sometimes feel like they're close to giving.Parking is along the road, in a small dirt patch. Maybe 10 cars with more roadside parking up the road.Dogs are allowed but should be under control, voice, leash, etc.[ NOTE- see the COMMENT by Tim Greenwood Oct 10, 2018 for more info... R Hall NH Admin. ]

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bald Mountain Preserve