The moves and position are undoubtedly among the best at Bone Mountain and the fact that it goes on gear is wild for how steep and exposed it is. Steep, exposed, moderate trad? Yum. 60-meter rope required.Begin in the right-facing corner with good stemming until the corner ends. Step left and continue up and right on steeper and steeper terrain. Romp straight up the impressive arete/face finding just enough gear along the way. Don't pump out before a tricky mantle which gains a stance. Enjoy the immaculate view for just a moment before stepping right onto a great featured slab to gain a two-bolt anchor shared with Bone Appetite.Punny name provided by Arthur Chukhman for my 50th FA.

50 Sent

Don't Doubt the Dojo

Raptor Ramp

Bite and Fight

Sex Ed Saves Lives

Chicken Little Complex

Bone Appetite

Dust-In Bones

Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct

Xiphoid Process

The Biter

Stockholm Syndrome

Start in a short chimney leading up to a tough fist crack section that is harder than it looks. Pull the bulge into excellent finger locks and stance below a short roof. Pull the roof and continue up until the crack disappears. Fear not, traverse right on a good crimp rail and into a second corner system. Follow the corner up easier terrain to a 2-bolt anchor. 

  I made Dylan promise to clean this gem up because it deserves it.

The furthest documented route to the south. Despite the small trees in the first 10 feet, this route is surprisingly exposed and clean.  

  Move up the center of the obvious ramp, slinging a tree on the way. Make increasingly exposed moves to a step-down move at the top of the ramp. Move up to the right of the red pine to a ledge at the top of the cliff with a great view, or, tackle the dirty headwall on the left on big holds. Belay from two 0.5 c4s in a small horizontal, back from the edge of the cliff.  

  We rapped off the next pine tree climber's left of the ledge, needs slings.

If steep crimps are your thing then look no further. This is a must-do climb for the area. 

  Business starts off the ground with a V4 boulder to reach the first good hold. From there complete another V4 boulder to the next good shake. Plug gear and work up as the holds get bigger with good gear before moving right to the two-bolt belay shared with Dust-in Bones.

If steep burly fist cracks are your thing, well... 

  Start low and work up to place a 4-inch cam. Rest before grunting and fighting your way up the roof crack and into the handcrack above. Top out left and continue to the belay on Xiphoid Process.

Another steep, quality trad line. It looks like shit at the bottom but it's quality above! 

  Climb the overhanging corner, some gear can be found under it but extend it or run it out above. Tons of gear options are just past the lip. Race up the easy slap and into an 80 foot tall corner. Stem up the corner on big holds with dicey gear and one big (20+ feet) runout. Plug in some great gear in a horizontal and blast through steep terrain on nice jugs to mantle up on to a ledge and gain a two-bolt anchor. 

  Named for the rain, boulders, and climber who fell that day.

Starts at the toe of an obvious arête, with interesting rock formations. Climb over the first steep step (2 bolts), then cruise easy slabs to the upper arête. The upper section is fantastic. Pick your way up and around the arête on positive, but not always obvious features.

DESCENT: Make sure you swing left to 50 Sent when rappelling where it's a little shorter. This is every inch of a 60-meter rope.

Simply put, this pitch is wonderful. Some friable rock detracts but the movement and position on this climb more than make up for it. There are two starting cracks, I started on the left and it felt about right for the grade. 

  P1. Climb the crack. The roof at the top is longer and steeper than it looks! 

  P2. Climb left off the belay and then straight up clipping a bolt and continuing up past gear to the top.

Bone Mountain's hardest pitch. A lot of work went into mastering the crux sequence.  

  Clip a low bolt  and traverse over to the arête. A difficult and core-intensive series of moves up the arête leads to a stance below the overhanging face. Delicately pull onto the face and make more difficult moves to gain a good shake just below the business. Pull back out on to the arête, clip the bolt, and fire out a difficult series of crossovers, bumps, and campus moves using small crimps on an overhanging face. Grasp the thank-God jug and pull up high to make the last clip before a tricky mantle to a two-bolt anchor.  

Pre-hung draws are helpful with a long one on the final bolt but I did it without one. If you blow the end it's a nice clean ride, no worries. I really should have put the last bolt lower so that might change but for now it has a bit of a mental edge to it.

Think of this as the harder, burlier version of Dust-in Bones. First discovered by Conor Mark but we finally took it down two years later. 

  Make a well-protected, powerful move to get off the ground and established in the corner. Work the next 35 feet through strong but secure laybacking. Don't worry about getting pumped though, the stance under the roof is worse than it looks so the rest is terrible. Find the good jams to exit the stance and grunt, growl, and grovel through the meaty offwidth and chimney to the top to a two-bolt anchor.

A great route pair with Don't Fear the Dojo, on the right. The FA was done with at least 5 necessary cams left either on the ground or back in the car leaving 3 pieces for the final 65 feet. Memorable to say the least. 

  Climb the easy corner with great stemming and small gear to a great stance below the roof. Surprisingly easy climbing through the fun roof crack leads to a stance in the corner. Continue up the easy corner system and take one final shake before leaving the corner for a crack system that gets steep and then steeper still. It's not over until the top! 2-bolt anchor. 

Named after a sharp fingerlock that made both Dylan and Roderick's fingers go numb when they grabbed it.

Make your way up behind the tree into the hand crack and some interesting stemming to surmount the ledge. Traverse left on a good finger crack and make your way up into a dicey crux hand crack. Step between a forked tree and make your way either up the dirty weakness or over the exposed arete on your left.This route needs a good cleaning which will add significantly since the climbing itself is good but it's currently dirty and can't really be recommended.

THE destination of Bone and the perhaps the highest concentration of pure trad climbing in Bolton. In my opinion this is the best climbing Bone Mountain has to offer.

 Within 100 feet of each other:

 50 Sent (5.9) Trad Bone Appetite (5.9) Sport Chicken Little Complex (5.9) Trad Dust-In Bones (5.9) Trad Bite and Fight (5.12b) Mixed Stockholm Syndrome (5.10a) Trad Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct (5.12b) Sport The Biter (5.10d) Trad Don't Doubt the Dojo (5.10b) Trad Xiphoid Process (5.11b) Trad Sex Ed Saves Lives (5.11b) Trad

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in G. Tradisfaction Wall