You will wonder where the 5.11a part is up until section between the last bolt and the jug at the anchors. If you are tall... you may be able to skip this crux (5.10b)

Note: I recommend the belayer clip into any of a number of the bolts positioned along the wall on this ledge.

Zygoats

Bear

Glass Slipper

Pops

The Maze

Pinched Loaf

Monkey Cat

Hobnail Boots

Mustache Ride

1 Trick Pony

Chicken

Positive Vibes

Guns and Provolone

Rocco

Fleeber Treatise

Mr. B's Wild Ride

Planktechtonics

Completely Screwed

Project

Clockwork Orange

The Gourmet Club

Let's Fight

Mr. B

Hyper-U

King Coiler

Mr. B goes to Vegas

Perpetual Caffiene

Dirty Snachez

Pounders

Tennies

At the far left end of the wall, start on a ledge 15ft up.  

Note: I recommend the belayer clip into any of a number of the bolts positioned along the wall on this ledge.

The climb starts up going right and up on to a ledge.  Continue to shuffle right on the ledge for about 8-10 feet.  Looking up you can see the climb meander up and left.  The climb finishes going straight up a slab just past the last bolt.

Pops starts up Mr. B and then slides off to the left at the undercling.  It finishes on the ledge at an anchor.

When looking up, the climb seem to have a lot of holds .... and it kind of does. When looking up, it also seems as the path of the climb is pretty obvious, but its just not. 

Note: One bolts was added and one moved at the bottom to make the use of a stick Clip for the first bolt no longer necessary.  I would still strongly suggest the belayer clip into any of a number of the bolts positioned along the wall on this ledge.

I forget which route - either Pinched Loaf or King Coiler finishes next to a large pocket that may have a bird's nest in it.

Fun climbing, and not as pumpy as the cave routes. A powerful start through the right side of the roof to a good stance. Cop a quick rest and then enjoy a nice sequence on crimps (redpoint crux) with the holds gradually getting bigger as you climb higher. 

This climb is nearly a straight line up and into the slab finish to the anchors of Glass Slipper.  

Note: two bolts were just added and one moved at the bottom to make the use of a stick Clip for the first bolt no longer necessary

The crux is getting your hands on the mini ledge just above the 2nd bolt. 

Note: I recommend the belayer clip into any of a number of the bolts positioned along the wall on this ledge.

Begin on a slightly over-vertical wall. Pull technical, powerful moves to the roof, then angle right over the roof and out to the anchors.

Climb either Pops (5.8) or Mr. B (5.10b/c); the start of starts between these routes. This line climbs another 10 bolts (60+ feet) up and on to a 1.5' wide ledge at the anchors. Note: Due to the length of the rest that's possible on the ledge... the grade is the same (5.11a). I just happen to like the full value of putting in two 3+ star climbs on top of each other.The 2021 guidebook has the grade at 5.11d. Per Tom Raether (as of 2021/12/08), the consensus for the grade is 5.11c. The rest on the ledge is at the very beginning when you do not need any rest yet, and after that it is a long way up. 

Tricky mixture of climbing techniques required to get to the anchors above the ledge.

Start by climbing Mr. B & Mr. B goes to Vegas; rest as long as you so chose at both ledges. Mr. B's wild Ride starts by initially moving right, but then ventures straight up a slabby-Vert section to the anchors only a few feet from the top of the Porcelain Wall. I suggest placing longer draws on the last two bolts of Mr. B and the first three bolts of Mr. B goes to Vegas as this will reduce rope drag at the top of the last pitch.  The climb is just a hair over 40 Meters, but the vertical height is shorter because the climb traverses to the right by about 5 meters.  An alternate easier route is to climb the 5.10a first pitch of Pops.

Steady hard 5.10 climbing to the crux. Cryptic!

Whether or not you end up Completely Screwed may depend on whether you stay left or right of the bolt line, and it's super fun to find out how this one unfolds.  The first four bolts get you to a ledge.  Between here and the anchor, two distinct cruxy sections will remind you to get creative with body positioning.  Gaston, stem, and leverage your way on up.  Final stretch to the chains is sublime.  With excellent protection, seems like this would be a good candidate for a leader just breaking into the grade.

Project to the right of Perpetual Caffiene

A couple crimpy cruxes and pumpy. This route was mistakenly recorded in 2000 as "Agent Orange."

Starts with Guns & Provolone, but veers left a few feet to an anchor on the ledge. Gourmet Club heads straight up, and is slightly steeper than Guns & Provolone, which splits off about 6’ to the right of the anchor. Crux seemed to be the bulge at the very top, but it was beginning to storm, so take that with a grain of salt. 

 Note the permadraws have been removed from both routes, as well as   hangers from several anchors along the massive ledge. As of 5/17/2021, the anchor consists of 2 bolts, but only a single draw.

I don't know anything about this route...

35' Climb up into,  then right and across, and finally up and out of the large undercling feature on typical limestone feet.     Climb right and up onto the ledge. There are 3 bolts to the ledge, Clip anchor above the ledge.

Might be difficult for shorter folks to clip the first bolt. The name for this route and the nest one - Pinched Loaf - come from the little coil of human poo I found at the base of the cliff before I opened the routes.

At the top of Mr. B, climb up and to the left into a small dihedral. Finish on the ledge.  Mr.B goes to Vegas gets you both Mr. B and it's extension to the ledge and a Lower off anchor at 65'. It will also access the last section of Mr. B's Wild Ride.

Start on the ledge that Hyper-U begins on. This older climb is bolted sparingly and finished even more so.  Way good fun, but a bit run out at the top! 

Note: I recommend the belayer clip into any of a number of the bolts positioned along the wall on this ledge.

Climb up Hobnail bolts until you need to veer slightly left to the anchors located in a large black patch

This South-East facing vertical wall houses some great routes on relatively good quality limestone. this wall is generally a winter wall, but in the fall/spring the wall can be climbed in the shade after 2:00 in September/April and after 2:30 in October/May. 

  Sun Location at the Porcelain Wall :  Sun Location

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Porcelain Wall