Pitch one: climb the blocky face to the right of the arete. Pull a hard move or two on less than inspiring rock (make sure your belayer wears a helmet!), and climb up to easier holds. Head up and right to the chains and a good belay ledge.

Pitch two: this is the fun pitch. Make sure you go to the RIGHT bolt line and not the one directly above the belay like I did wondering why the hell this is so hard for an 11a. Go up a flake system on small but positive crimps. This has great exposure, the second pitch makes up for the first one.

Remember - if you climb directly above the belay, you are now on the second pitch of Mish Mast, 11d, also fun!

These two pitches can be linked.

Plate Tectonics

Full Sail

Guard Your Dingy

Half Mast

Wolverine

Velvet Brown

Spanker Mast

Keelhaul

Choss Dodger

Bandito's Bat Roost

Mish Mast

Anchor Thief

A small overhang and mantle gains the face. From there, work up and slightly left to the arete and enjoy the great exposure. Finish with some stem moves in a dihedral and top out on a large ledge where the chains await.

Wow, this amazing line on great rock climbs the proudest feature of The Sail head-on up the intimidating, steep prow.

Start as for "

Keelhaul

" and "

Half Mast

," and climb up and right directly into the sustained, bouldery roof feature. Make hard, sequential moves with good clipping positions to an amazing throw move to "the jug," and get the clip before embarking on the engaging and difficult boulder problem crux. After the hard climbing is done, there is thought provoking 5.11 to the top with several no-hands rests before the final head-check boulder problem on airy moves just below the anchor.

This is a must do for the 5.13 climber and will need consensus to settle into its final rating. Please leave a comment about your experience on this stunner! The Poudre delivers once again!

Climb up a sharp arete to a very steep crack, arete, and shallow corner before pulling around to the left and up the face. The crux comes leaving the steep section where one has to find a way to fight the barn door and find the good crimps to get some great jugs. The top still has lots of lichen.  Take care at the 4th clip, since a fall clipping the bolt may result in swinging into the sharp arete at the bottom.

Follow a left-angling crack that splits the lower half of the wall. Move right midway up the crack after clipping a fixed pin, but before it turns into a corner feature, finish on an easier but sparsely protected slab to anchors in a pegmatite depression.

-Poudre Canyon guidebook, 2010.

Fun moves past the pin lead to a slopey ledge with a good crimp just above. Power through a left sidepull (awesome move!) to the ledge above.

This would be a very tricky lead on gear, no gear past the pin if you're going up and right, but it is easily top-roped by climbing Bandito's Bat Roost.

Make crux moves off the large flake block, then continue up the thoughtful and excellent brown streak and upper dihedral. The crux is a balancy sequence once you step left away from the dehedral about halfway up.

Start 10 feet left of

Keelhaul

, running up the center of The Sail. Move up and left through blocky but interesting climbing, and mantel or stem to the ledge. The 3 bolt crux sequence awaits in the vertical seam just after moving off of the ledge onto the face above. After the crux, the angle eases. Enjoy good movement on positive holds to the chains.

Begin on the sharp downhill (SW) arete of the Sail, then traverse left after clipping the 3rd bolt. Climb into a powerful, shallow dihedral feature, then move up to shared anchors with the next route (Half Mast).

I thought this P2 extension to

Velvet Brown

was kind of fun.  If you are afraid of choss, subtract two stars from the quality rating.

Climb one of the three climbs that shares the anchors of

Velvet Brown

.  Continue climbing up the arete above past 4 bolts, which will feel runout at the time.  A green Alien will help straighten out the line if linking pitches. The crux is at the 3rd bolt where you traverse from the chossy face to the solid stone on the right.

P1: Begin just left of the left-facing corner system. Move into the corner then finish up the green lichen stripe with a slightly awkward crux at the top. Belay as for Plate  Tectonics.

P2: Follow the far left bolt line past five more bolts. Linking the first two pitches of both routes is possible, as is lowering with a 60 meter rope from the top anchors.

-Poudre Canyon Guide Book, 2010.

Anchor Thief climbs some interesting rock with fun edges.  There are two crux sections.  The first involves an undercling to a reach at mid-height. The second crux section is at the last two bolts.  Staying left is harder!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sail