"Start on jugs at the left side. Go up to two crimps and then up to a hueco and a loose finish."

Chocolate City

Warmup Roof Right

Automatic Choke

Greasy Kid Stuff

Thorny Toad

The Execution

Li Stand

The Guillotine

Juvinile Offender

Babyfat

Young Guns

Warm Up Roof

Mojo

[Redacted]

Climb out roof right of Crispy Critters. Start in break above the sotol, climbing up the prominent brown rock. Top out up and to the right.

Start in the horizontal crack just right of Warm Up Roof.  Move through a powerful undercling into a right hand pinch.  Set your feet and throw to the undercling shared with Warm Up Roof.  Match and continue up Warm Up Roof.

Low start on big slopers and work your way up through a few good holds to a big reach to some sharp crimps to an easy topout.

Left and right underclings under the roof, then throw for the lip.  Watch the swing then make a big reach to gain the face and top out

Given V4 in the guide book, seems harder. 

  Start just right of The Guillotine. Move out from the horizontal onto a sloping left facing rail. A big move out to a good edge at the lip. Figure out what to do with this and make a loooong reach up to  horizontal and an easier top out.

The start hold is a horizontal pinch at head height with a good thumb catch on the bottom. There are many ways of doing this boulder so find the way that works best for you.

Located far to the right of Warm Up Roof.  Start on a big low flake and move up and right to a scary and sharp flake.

Crimp route on kid stuff wall. It is next to juvenile offender.

Crimp line to the right of greasy kid stuff.

Start low on the obvious flake and then climb up through big moves to good holds at the top.

Start on the "trailer hitch" hold and a foot out right power through hard to hold pinches and slap your way to the angled jug.  Most people drop off from here, but for full value do the top out.  The feet are choss, but as long as your track hands and feet you'll be fine.  3 stars for awesome holds, powerful movement and a fine landing.  -1 stars for being a drop off or for the chossy highball top out.

This unaesthetic problem requires good body tension, and confidence on poor slopers.   

  Start sitting with your hands in some very smooth scoops.  Pull off the ground and fire for a strange sloper/pinch feature.  Either campus or use heel hooks to move left to a decent spot in a huge hueco.  Throw in a kneebar and make a few more large lock offs between good holds, and escape right on friable rock.  

  Easy on the skin.

Warm-up Roof and Kids Stuff wall which sit back to back one facing N and the other facing S used to be a very popular area to warm up. Proximity to the campground and pond parking was good, then people could move on to the Dragon's Den or the Dark Heart from there. The Warm-up roof has good problems in the V2 to V5 range pulling on steep jugs out a 60 degree wall while Kids Stuff wall has a small low roof and a short vertical wall, most of the problems are shorter and some easier stuff as well. Pretty much all the problems are at least OK with Warm-up Roof being the stand out, Guillotine is also quite good. In recent years some very difficult problems have been added to the Warm-up Roof side of things, especial if you consider Slashface and Superfuz part of the area. 

  A great place to warm up before moving on to the Dragon's Den.

Description

Location

Routes in Warm Up Roof