Currently the area's hardest route featuring steep, thin edges and bouldering between bolts. The rock quality isn't the best so don't be surprised if some holds snap off!

4 star 5.9

Vicki Gill

Jedi Magic

Hellbilly

Smoke and Mirrors

Sleight of  Hand

Billy Goat

Cling Plus

Leech Master

Big Man, Little Man

Iron Horse

Scape Goat

Two Cams are Better Than None

Five O'Clock Shadow

Nice Cleavage

Climbs a short west-facing flake/crack which doesn't reach the ground and the crux at the start.

This is marked by a prominent short right-slanting crack with the crux near the top. A ledge is reached shortly after a crack start. The slanting crack follows near the back of the ledge.  The gear runs out halfway up as the crack turns into a seam.  The rock quality is often better than examination from distance suggests.

Steep friction and delicate movement get one past the first bolt (crux), while higher the angle kicks back and the climbing becomes moderate. A little chossy up high, but it should clean up with more traffic.

Start from behind some boulders and climb the obvious right-slanting crack. The crux is at the start and it's difficulty will depends upon if you stem back or stay on the face.

Clip the 1st bolt and stem across onto the face, bypassing the blank lower section, and then continue up the somewhat gritty face to shared anchors with

Jedi Magic

.

The climbing is fairly continuous in nature for such a short climb, a while a bit scrappy should improve with more traffic.

Climbs a right-facing flake to a left-slanting crack which angles up to the anchors of

Jedi Magic

.

This is the left-tending hand crack on the south side of Parking Lot Rock.  It starts down on the right side of a large boulder.  Do a few moderate moves to work your way up the space between the boulder and the main wall.  From atop the boulder, take the crack head on.  There are plenty of hand jams and foot jams, plus the occasional face hold.  I dont recall much of a crux, just fun, moderate crack climbing.  This one is very short but well worth it if you want to do some trad climbing in Holcomb.  To descend, walk from the belay ledge to the bolted anchor for Cling Plus and rappel.

This route is found on the left side of the tallest, most unbroken section of face and is located just left of

Five O'Clock Shadow

.

Challenging underclings with technical footwork characterize the lower portion of this route, which eases midway after a horizontal crack (optional 1" pro) is passed. The face above the horizontal is much easier and a romp to the top.

Start up

Scape Goat

for about 15 feet, then make the crux traverse left into a wide crack which is followed to the top.

Follow a fist crack through a series of horizontals that ends with an awkward squeeze section wherein only the thinnest won't find themselves somewhat stuck.  Pass this crux to top out.

This is the striking (for a forty foot route) dihedral and roof crack facing the parking lot. Jam and stem the dihedral before traversing right and then turn the roof for the final short upper crack moves.

Easy face leads into a hand crack that ends below the top where a short section of face climbing gains the summit.

Start off a block and then pull onto the face and straight into the crux which involves some technical and balancy moves. The difficulty eases to 5.10 higher but still requires some thoughtful movement as you make your way to the top.

Wiggle up the chimney (easy) to reach the start of a splitter right-slanting crack which lies on the left margin of the face with Cling Plus; shares anchors with that route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Parking Lot Rock