Scramble up the gully east of Onoclea.  Pellaea and Onoclea (named for two genuses of ferns) are separated by a deep notch, but this dies out into  a crack at the base of the east face which is only a few inches wide.  It is easy to hike too far, because it is hard to see the tops of the formations through the trees.

Start the climb either up this crack, or up the face to it's right.  This is the most unpleasant pitch of the climb as there are many pine needles on this face.  I climbed up a scruffy face (over a dead log) about 20' right of the crack.  After about 80' you come to a tree where you can belay.

Here the route becomes more obvious, you should see the separating crack widening to your left (if it is to your right you are off route on Pellaea!).  Follow the crest up easy low angle rock past several small trees.  In one section there is a smooth slab (crux!).  Finally you will arrive at a small tree under a short, steep headwall.  Walk left and crank over this headwall easily on big holds.  Pass another tree, and wander on up to the summit.

To descend, scramble down the northeast for about 75' to a tree and rappel 25' north to the ground.  From here you can hike east and then back down the gully you came up (very easy and simple), or head west through the second notch north of Onoclea.  From the notch, you should look down onto a huge chockstone and the top anchors of the two sport climbs "Rads for Rookies" and "False Gods, Real Men".  You can rap these routes to the Fern Canyon trail, or continue north to the summit of the Nebel Horn.

East Face/Onoclea

West Face, Onoclea

A short but fun little route. Steep, but nice holds. Plenty of room for variations.  You might think of it as an easy but very highball bouldering problem.

Description

Protection

Routes in Onoclea