Perhaps the best 5.10 at Schoolroom.  I'm not sure if Pete ever named this thing, but for someone who had never been to Schoolroom before (or after?), he sure picked out a gem.

Climb easy ground up to the finger crack, then follow the finger crack to the first glue-in bolt.  A 15 foot section of face past another glue-in on clean stone takes you up to the seam.  End at the glue-in anchor.  The crack leading to the bolts takes some good TCUs and small nuts and the seam up top takes a decent nut and a cam.

Takeda Route

Father Roy

Tiny Giant

Teardrops on the City

A Country Mile

Giants of Science

Lucky Town

Rattlesnake Speedway

Located just off to the right of Luck Town and Gangsta Ledge. This route climbs through the roof down low and up the rounded, overhanging bulge through the bolt protected seem.  Follow the seem straight up to the glue-in anchors.

This line was originally envisioned as 5.13 climb straight up where the second and third bolts are utilizing the seam immediately to the left.  But it turned out climbing up the seam about 4-5 feet to the route was significantly easier, more consistent with the rest of the route, and didn't seem like it strayed too far off course.  So for an 11+ ascent it is okay to climb the seam in the grey band of rock just to the right of the bolts second and third bolts.

Climb a splitter crack on the wall right of Giants of Science.  A desperate move is encountered at the bulge where the crack is too thin for fingers, but the climbing eases after that.

Sweet climb up a crisp shield of bullet hard stone,...forged in the Earth's furnace, and weathered through the ages. A force of nature.

AKA:

Lunar Tune

, This follows the nice finger crack in  the dihedral.  Just below the roof, traverse left and pull the roof.  Up and slightly left fixed anchors are found.  This is a good exciting lead.  Unfortunately often filled with wasps.

Giants of Science is a fantastic route that climbs the face to the right of the dihedral on the upper ledge.  It is a consistent, athletic line with some interesting moves and a committing crux.  Do not come to Asbury Park without doing both this and Teardrops on the City.

This good route is the mirror image of

Teardrops

. It has a similar airy feel. From

Gangsta Ledge

, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.

I did not want to compromise

Father Roy

, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt.  Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the easy, kind of runout slab to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gangsta' Ledge