Moslty vert 5.11 with one good mono yank.  FA onsight by Tilden with a wicked hangover.

Neutral Spirit

Trouble in the Forest

Time Bandits In The Crows Nest

F'd in the A

Ooh La La

Kyberspace

The Insect

Tetonka

Leggo My Guanno

Party in the VAJAYJAY

Pick Pocket

Hellion

The Incredible Horse Cock

He Biggum

You Got Nothin on Me

Boy Howdy

Great White Behemoth

Walk The Dog

Black Slabbath

Silly Rabbit

Tricks for You

Big Yellow Butterfly

Skwish Mitten

This spectacular line takes the best stone up the middle of the SUPERRATIC PILLAR proper. Unlike Happiness, this route has a well defined crux at about the 4th or 5th bolt. Props to HUEY for this Genius creation.

Continuous small holds, eye sockets and egg shells.

Between 'Tricks For You' and 'Silly Rabbit'. This is a great sustained route on excellent stone. Thin crimping, knob pinching, and pebble pulling takes you to the anchor.

Continuously hard from the first bolt to the last. No rests, a crux at the 2nd bolt, 4th bolt and 7th bolt. This climb is very strange for ten sleep with many difrent kinds of holds from slopers to crimps, underclimbs and more.

Step off the ground to grab the 'sunglasses' shaped pocket. Work up the large flake, and up to the arête. The holds on the initial part of this feature pull outward at you, making the climbing super fun. All good things come to an end as with the unique holds on the arête, solve the crux and cruise to the anchor.

A cool route that just might be the last addition to the Superratic. Thanks to KW for bolting/rebolting and establishing many of the test pieces at this crag!

Begin as with Pick Pocket climbing the initial 20' flake section and clipping the bolts out left.  When the flake ends stay left of the right angling crack.  This prompts increasingly harder moves involving some slopers for the left hand.  Leave the crack via an obvious pocket, the crux, and power up through crimps.  The climbing eases a bit but never really lets up, which delivers quite the pump.  One of Kevins first TS contributions, and a fine one at that.

An elegant line up the gently overhanging wall on the far right side of the crag. Thin moves on slightly tweaky pockets set you up for the powerful crux between the third and fifth bolts. From here, the pockets improve and the difficulty eases slightly, but never backs off entirely.

Climb long juggy corner filled with the dirty turdy.  Actually fun even though you have to avoid crap with every hand placement.  New kind of climbing? Guanoeering?

What a ride!  It hardly gets better than this.  Big moves with good holds at the start will prepare you as this climb gets harder the higher you go.  You will know when you get to the first of two long moves as you are staring down a massive reach to a left hand pocket.  Manage this span and your very next move is even longer.  Use your right hand, grab some non-holds, paste a right foot high........pray?, and huck for a hand swallowing pocket.

Is it over?

No such luck. This is where you get to fall repeatedly  thinking you have already done the hardest moves on the route.  Navigate small holds and high feet, get a right kneebar, and dispatch the final 20 feet of 5.12.

Clip the anchors.  Take in the view of the Bighorn Range off to your right and you can end your day happy knowing that Tensleep climbing doesn't get much better than this.

SHIT DAMN!

Pick Pocket climbs a right leaning seam. Begin on easy terrain untill about the 3rd bolt. Begin using opposing side pulls and small finger locks w/ the occasional pocket to a great rest. Pull a small bulge on small holds and good feet to the chains. GREAT !

Start in the small dihedral and climb on to some very thin and deceptively steep terrain. Make sure your fingers are up for the tweeking.

Expect a very bouldery start, probably around V8 to the 4th bolt, involving either a very long pull to a small crimp or a horrible left hand side pull slimper (sloper crimp) to the same small crimp. Chose your beta depending on your height, but probably harder if you are short. From here its 5.13a climbing to the anchors where you have to be 'on-it' to the top, though after the crux there a few jugs to rest up on.  This is a MEGA clasic! A 'must do' for the grade, or if you are a boulderer and need to send something hard to feed your massive ego.

The magnificant orange streak to the right of the Great White Behemoth A.K.A He Biggum A.K.A The Great Pile of Pumkin Puke. Man, this climb has some history. Bolted>stripped>re-bolted>sent. Amazing powerfull long pulls between pockets. Continuously hard from the ground to the 7th clip, with a hard crux of the ground, a dyno after that then a red point crux before the easy slab up top. Stick clip the first bolt out right. You can clip the bolt right above the first seam off the ground for a directional, but its not necessary. This climb is stripped of its five stars because there are two drilled pockets on this climb. But in my opinion, that should not stop you from getting on this climb because it is one of the most fun climbs I have gotten on in Ten Sleep.

Climb a huge left-facing flake using a combination of laybacks, finger locks, hand/foot jams, smears, and whatever else you fancy. Then climb some easy terrain past one bolt to the anchor. No distinct crux; it just demands decent footwork.

overhanging flake/crack right of big yellow butterfly.  i linked this straight into the upper part of big yellow butterfly for extra good times!

Start from a flat rock that is perched nicely on the edge of the slope. Thin moves off the ground continue for about 55 feet on less than vertical stone with several cruxes. Find a good rest, then continue up the vertical wall on better holds for 25 feet to the anchor. A final hard sequence gaurds the anchor.

The movement is fantastic for the entire route length, and several hard sections require focus all the way to the anchor.

The climb consists of mostly great rock until the last 10 feet where some crumbly stuff is encountered. The rock may be a bit sharp in spots.

This route is overshadowed by the other classics in the area, but is well worth the effort, and deserves more traffic.

This strangely appealing slabby face climb is difficult right off the ground. Very very thin climbing with surprisingly good clipping stances gets you to a little pocket (that feels like the biggest jug in the world) around bolt 5. Easier climbing including some dirty holds leads to the anchors.

Not the most comfortable belay from up in the insect corner (or from the slanted boulder). You might consider walking down a bit and belaying from below.

This route gets 12+ in the guidebook. I'm guessing 12b... maybe c.

A nice route starting out with easy climbing and finishing with easy climbing.  With excellent, more challenging climbing in between for about 6 bolts.

On the left side of the Supererratic Pillar, this route follows a slight crack/seam for the first 30 feet. Holy technique, Batman! You'd better have your footwork dialed in for this one, or you'll be very puzzled indeed. Tricky is right!  There is a seldom done 5.12 second pitch.

Kittens, meow, meow. Nice climbing up a face using the arete/edge of the face to the left. Starts out tricky, thin and technical before easing up on nice flakes and a small dihedral. Getting your shoes on and belaying are tricky on this slope but it's worth the effort. It's a good warmup for the super cool climbing on

Tricks for You

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1st 5 bolts go up the corner using the crack and whatever you can find around it (10b) push on through the steepness above (7 more bolts) for the 11a.  the 11a version is sustained jug pullin, have fun!

Cruise through some nice intro moves on big holds before launching into a very sustained section (bolt 5-9).  Begin the difficulties by grabbing a hero sinker mono and then making your way through wonderful compression moves ending with a crux right hand crimp and left foot to hand match.  If you can pull this move all that guards the chains is 5.11 slab climbing.

This route is Tensleep at it's best.  Don't miss it!

Description

Protection

Routes in Superratic Pillar