The Wonderette is an easier free variation of the Wonderwall (5.9 A3 or 5.13c R).  Expect exposed face and crack climbing on and near aretes the whole way.  Bolts have been added to the face climbing sections on the upper pitches to make them safer.  Sustained at the 5.10+ range with a few harder sections.  The single 5.12 move can be avoided with a tension traverse/pendulum.  It is also probably possible to climb into the last two pitches by traversing directly into them from the Undone Book.  This would avoid both the 5.12 crux and a committing, techy 5.11+ corner.

The Wonderette

King Thistle

Kewa

Triple Overhangs

Wonderwall

Future Shock

The Undone Book

Vertical Smile

The Open Book

West Ridge

Stellar line with great rock.  Bolt on the 2nd pitch crux has reportedly been replaced, but still not for the meek. Old school alpine 9+ R, i.e., modern 5.Hard.  I would compare the crux of this route in style, difficulty, and boldness to the Viewing, 10a, on the Coffin. But the position, exposure, and alpine factor make this feel a bit harder. Quite stimulating.

An epic first pitch of difficult crack climbing and a fun, wandering second pitch lead to the classic finish of the Vertical Smile.

Just right of the start for the Triple Overhangs/Vertical Smile climb a wide flare on the right wall of a corner system up and over a small roof and into the corner.  Enjoy beautiful patina climbing with gear in the arching corner system.  As the crack goes around the arete onto steeper terrain things become increasingly more difficult until it's possible to get sideways in a stem.  Climb over a roof and belay in the double cracks above. (5.12)  Climb more patina up and right to a ledge out on the arete.  From the ledge, a corner system  continues up and right. Then head back left to reach a wide crack.  Follow this feature until until it's possible to escape left.  Trend up and left and belay from a small ledge common to the Vertical Smile. (5.9)

50-60 feet to the right and below the start of Open Book (5.7). A series of cracks run up and right from the ledge system (5.7ish). This is the start for Future Shock (5.10). Climb the cracks for 40 feet that are nicely protected with nuts. About 20 feet below an old sling, a roof opens up on the left. A nice hand jam that is also big enough for protection allows for the transition left into wide flaring cracks via a small side-pull/crimp (5.10ish). Small cams are helpful but gear placements are still difficult. Pinches and awkward hand jams (5.10ish) give access to slopers and crimps to the ledge shared with the top of the first pitch of Open Book (5.7).

The crux of Triple O's is my favorite pitch in the Wasatch.  Tremendous exposure, spectacular rock, bomber gear.  While the 1st and 2nd pitches are not as memorable, the crux is all I needed to put this one in my top 3 all time.  You can, however, start and finish on Vertical Smile, for a supposedly more consistent, and challenging variation.  If Beckey did it first in 1962, you know it's good.

Established during the year of my birth, the Wonderwall is the strikingly obvious line that avoids the Summit Wall's lower-angle, patina faces and--instead--tackles the most prominent of the steeper, white faces characteristic of the formation's more southerly aspects.  A tremendous and a visionary achievement, the Wonderwall combines quality stone and--perhaps--some of the most exposed positions in the cirque with, at times, "heads up" technical climbing, all in a remote setting.  For those in search of summer alpine adventure in the Wasatch, check out this seldom-done classic.  If--and when--this one goes free, it will surely rival the Question Mark Wall's Beckey Route (FFA:  Merrill Bitter, Stuart Ruckman) as the modern Cirque testpiece.

Futurist Alvin Toffler, in his 1970 book of the same name, describes this phenomenon as, "too much change in too short a period of time."  Unknown to us at the time, we opened this route ground-up, 52 years to-the-day after the Summit Wall saw its first--technical--ascent, via the Merciful Traverse (5.6, D. Bell, C. Giddings, A. Kelner, 1958).  During our ascent, we noticed a fast-approaching storm cloud to the southwest, prompting us to sit tight on the prominent ledge atop the second pitch, nearly 2/3 the way up the wall.  While searching for a possible escape, we discovered two pitons in a shallow corner--along the most logical line of least resistance--and quickly realized that we'd stumbled upon the virtually-forgotten FA line.  One of the pins--a perfectly preserved, soft-iron ring angle--fell out with barely a touch, and so we decided to return the relic to the first ascensionists--if they were still around...

In the end, the weather proved uneventful and we finished the final pitch to the summit.  Upon returning to the valley, through a series of customer-related acquaintances via IME, we managed to reunite long-time Wasatch local--and backcountry ski guidebook author--Alexis Kelner with an object he'd not seen in 52 years.  Moved by our gesture, Mr. Kelner responded by digging up a copy of an old newspaper clipping, the Deseret News, dated 10 July, 1958, titled, "3 Men Scale Lone Peak On West Side; First Time?"  We chose the name Future Shock to remind us of just how much the times have changed, but also of how some things--adventure, boldness and exploration--will always be a part of what we do.

Great route that can easily be seen from camp. The first pitch and a half share Triple Overhangs, when you reach the arching fist crack these routes split the Overhangs goes left into the dihedral, Vertical Smile stays in the crack. Follow this crack until it goes into a small left facing corner where the climbing thins out and some technical stemming comes into play. Pull the roof and continue up and right, pass two bolts (we set up a belay at the second bolt). From here go up and right some runout climbing (5.6) leads you to a right facing corner the gear gets better here. At the top of the corner pull the roof by sweet hand jams. Continue up eventually joining the last pitch of the Undone Book. Follow the obvious line to the top.

There aren't many sizable ledges on this route; bring enough gear with you to make belays as you go, and be prepared to be hanging in your harness with ever-increasing exposure at each belay. We did this climb in 4 pitches. For what it's worth I thought the 5.10a rating was about right on (when compared to other 10a's such as Mexican Crack). It's all there and the pro is good on the cruxes.

Straight forward route finding, good protection, and an incredible location make this a prized route.

Approach up the boulder field to the right of the summit wall. Climb up an easy dihedral (5.3) for 40 feet to belay on a large ledge before the dihedral continues up at a slightly steeper angle.

All belays require natural anchors. Some horns may be slung for anchors, but these horns tend to not be in comfortable stances.

Pitch 1 - 5.6 - Climb up the v shaped dihedral for 30 feet until you reach a horizontal flake that transitions you 10 feet over to the right and up 10 feet to the belay ledge. A #2 Camalot perfectly protects the flake transition.

Pitch 2 - 5.7 Awkward Chimney - Calling this a chimney is almost misleading. It is more like a offwidth crack with plenty of holds inside and outside the crack so that you never have to use offwidth technique. The pitch goes directly up the wall out ten feet from the large dihedral on the left. There is a thin crack to the left the offwidth that takes good protection or use the crack at the back of the offwidth. Belay on a good ledge above the cracks.

Pitch 3 - 5.7 Bear Hug - Climb numerous fluted cracks above the ledge. After 50 feet the cracks form two perfect parallel hand cracks that continue for another 30 feet. After another 20 feet you reach a good belay ledge. You'll pass two historic pitons on this pitch.

Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Easier climbing continues above the ledge as you lean left towards the large dihedral that you have been following for the entire route. Place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack just below a small roof and then pull over to the right of the roof. From here easy moves take you directly to the summit.

Descent(edited): From the Summit of Lone Peak, you can descend north or south.

To the north it is all hiking. If you are tempted to rap down part of the Flying Buttress wall, don't. Hike north near the ridge, then west back down to cirque, look for the hiker's trail.

To the south, you must scramble over the excitingly jagged ridge to the south summit, and then down around to the saddle between S.Summit and Question Mark wall. Then, follow ramps down to the left to the Question Mark Rappels from trees. Maybe 2 half rope raps, or one double rope rap, but don't quote me on that. (double rope rap with 60m definitely gets you down)

Left ridge of the main summit wall. Pass the start for Triple O's, looking for a left slanting ramp with some trees/greenery and a short widish crack that takes you directly up to that ramp.

An adventure route. I recommend an affinity for and comfortability with choss and being able to climb with a light touch around some pretty loose stuff.

While never too difficult, route finding around sections of bad rock will likely be the crux for most.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Summit Wall