User Friendly has a bad reputation for choss, but the crux start is actually pretty clean on decent quality rock (by Red Wing standards). This new link-up takes the best part of User Friendly, dodges the choss, adds a cool traverse, and finishes on Wasp Mentality.

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo

Piranha

User Friendly

Piranha Blues Direct

Urban Chunks

Big Rocks Remembered

Unknown

Suicide Squeeze

Cyclops

Pigeon Paranoia

End Play

Work Ethic

Sobriety

Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag

Coronation Blues

Wasp Mentality

Forearm Smash

The first 25 feet of this route is where all the business happens.  Technical start with tricky/awkward sequences until you reach the bulge 20' off the deck.  Pull through the bulge and mantle to a rest.  Avoid moving left at the bulge for full value.  A bit runout up top but the climbing backs off considerably.  Not the most intriguing route but could be better with more traffic.

This linkup climbs the opening crux of Piranha, traverses through Pigeon Paranoia, and then finishes on Coronation Blues Direct. There are many different ways to traverse through Pigeon Paranoia. Choose your favorite, and use long runners. After clipping the last bolt of Coronation Blues Direct, climb straight up via a very poor side-pull and a shallow pocket, avoiding any handholds to the right of the last bolt. Clip the chains from the left at the lip.

 This one seems a bit harder than the standard Piranha finish since it has a fairly hard crux right at the chains. This route is also unique for the Cyclops wall, since all of the other 12s decrease substantially in difficulty after hitting a rest ledge or turning slabby.  Although it has a couple of good shake-out stances, this one stays with you until the end.

Urban Chunks is kind of a strange route. The crux is early, 15 feet and it's really over. Hidden holds and balancy moves define the beginning, and the last half is forgettable. Unfortunately I dropped someone on this route (not from far up) as I didn't know he had started climbing (was on TR). So kids always remember to say "climbing" to your belayer.

Interesting pockets and powerful moves down low on this route, then sparsely protected towards the top. Not hard up there but groundfall potential for sure.

Although the grade is debated a little, this is a great consensus 11. Delicate moves on good rock, not too pumpy as there is a good rest at the ledge and the crux is early. Requires a little thought and a bit of a sequence.

Fun climb that targets the namesake hole up high.   

  This is the Ro Shampo of Barn Bluff.  5.12a in the guidebook.  Originally listed here as 5.11d, it may have become harder over the years like most popular Red Wing routes (see comments below).   

  It looks like most recent redpointers have given it 5.12a, so I have changed it to reflect that (January 09).   

RCM&W #8, p.117

Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag.  You'll run into a 8 foot block.  Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes.  Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish. 

RCM&W #13, p. 117

Bolted variation from Sleeping Bat. From the big ledge, climb straight up for a crimpy direct finish. Ends on same anchors.

One of the top classic Red Wing routes, Work Ethic offers the motivated rock jock a brilliant stretch of thin, technical face climbing that is surprisingly sustained for such a short length.  Even though it goes higher, the climb is effectively over at the major ledge at 25 feet.  Beta is key to the thin, crimpy nature of this face and the route feels much harder until the proper sequences are sussed out.  Put in the work though, this route is worth the effort!

Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing. 

RCM&W #9, p. 117

Begin on the second pedestal above Pigeon Paranoia. See beta photo. The climber should hike up and around and drop the rope to the belayer. The belayer should stay at the base near the bottom of Pigeon Paranoia. Clip the first bolt before leaving the pedestal. At the last bolt, the 10c variation involves moving slightly right. The 11c variation (Coronation Blues Direct) goes straight up after clipping the last bolt via a very poor side-pull and a shallow pocket, avoiding any handholds to the right of the last bolt.

 The scree gully approach to the back of the second pedestal is the site of frequent rockfall, especially in winter and spring, so heads up. 

A pretty great climb that has a couple surprisingly difficult moves. You can make it a little easier by climbing pretty far right, there is a big edge over there that you can reach the bolt way far left from about 15 feet up, but it's more fun and a little more difficult to try to go straight up. After you nail the crux by snagging the huge flake undercling halfway up it's basically over. A worthy climb-- at least as classic as Annadonia, which gets a lot more traffic.

 Be sure to bring your beekeeper's suit and a can of RAID.

This traditional climb starts out wide hands to fists.  A good climb for the competent 5.8 crack  climber, solid protection to the bolted anchors.  Follow the crack and protect early and often, the crux is the    wide crack start with awkward footing. 

 RCM&W #5, p.115

The Cyclops Area is on the south facing wall left of the Winter Wall Area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cyclops Area