Beautiful climbing up a pillar of rock on the right side of the Theology Crag. Sustained and technical with an inverted heel-hook crux move pulling over the roof at 3/4 height. Take care with fragile features through the middle of the route. Almost as good as Beggar's Banquet and Trouble with Normal.

Unnamed 5.12a

No Man Knows the Hour

Fade to Black

Beggar's Banquet

Unnamed 5.9

Frizzle Fry

The Trouble With Normal

Titanium Albatross

Unnamed (Water Jump Start)

Trial of Faith

A unique (and potentially shoe-dampening) 4' horizontal jump start over water onto jugs gets you started on this one. Above, sandy slab climbing leads to the top.

This route stays perenially dirty/sandy due to its location adjacent to a waterfall in the creekbed.

Prepare yourself for some steep and pumpy climbing that fills in nicely the menu of routes available at Theology Crag.

Begin the climb by pulling over a steep, honeycombed block protected by the first bolt. Move through a couple of delicate face moves aided by a key pocket. After gaining the ledge, scramble up about ten feet to the next bolt. Here is where the fun really begins.

Work your way up the obvious knife blade, using both sides until you get to a small cave at the top of the major weakness. Click the bolt to your left and get ready for the crux. Power out left and pull past the overhanging crux using a key undercling in a deep dish above. Clip the next bolt and gain a crucial rest stance. Continue moving up the steep and pumpy upper face, using the arete on the left, past three more bolts to an exciting finish below the anchors shared with Unnamed 5.9.

A 70m rope will get you all the way to the base near the Live Oak tree. A 60m rope will only get you to the base of the first bolt and you'll have to scramble down 15-20 feet (not hard) to the base.

Though some cleaning was done for the route, the middle section is always likely to be a bit gritty.

The first son of one member of the FA party was born 36 hours after the route was first led cleanly, which is how the route gets its name.

Historical note:

Given that this is the natural rappel line for Unnamed 5.9, we knew this climb had likely been completed on top-rope. We recently met up with Hutch Axilrod, who first top-roped the line together with Pat Briggs, Tony Del Bechio and David Griffith III. They were developing lines on the blocks above and top-roped this line after some cleaning. Hutch notes that the first top-rope ascent was August 18, 1993 and the route was dubbed "Bat Boy" at the time because "about half way up I pulled a flake that revealed a bat inside a little cave which i tried to leave undisturbed and clean around it."

A boulder problem passing the first bolt over a bulging block gets you established at the base of the steep headwall.  Underclings, sidepulls, pockets, and some liebacking leads past three more bolts to the sandy crux finish and the anchors.

Starts a short scramble up and to the left of "The Trouble With Normal". Juggy and overhanging moves off the ground transition into steep and powerful face climbing above. The second to last bolt is the crux. As of this writing, the crux is a lunge to a small crimp which, judging from the amount of glue still on the rock, used to be a large crimp but broke off, hence the 5.11 c/d rating. I think the route used to be graded 5.11b. Whatever its rating, be prepared to go for it at the end!

Face climbing up a long slabby ramp with great exposure. Some loose rock which will clean up with more ascents.

A powerful crux move down low on cool ribbon features leads to awesome pocket pulling, culminating with a delicate foot traverse along a sloping ledge to the anchors.  Quality rock, good movement, great position high above the canyon.  Would be worthy of four stars if it were longer...

Stunning and intimidating climbing up a huge dihedral, then a wild bear-hug crux leading to the top. Awesome!

A very steep and intimidating face, but unfortunately it appears that many holds have broken off this route. Lots of rock scars and the "big loose flake" mentioned in the guide is gone, even after attempts to save it with epoxy. May not be 5.12a anymore, and it might not even go.

A striking (and overhanging) crack that starts at hands and tapers to fingers. After the thin stuff, the holds taper off into nothingness... any takers?

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Theology Crag