This, the thin face climb left of the pockets and up the middle of the blankest part of the west side, has its moments.

Turlock Eliminate

The Real Bulge

Slime

Turlock Face

Crowd Puker

Potholes (Left Start)

Potholes (Right Start)

Crystal Roof

Hoof and Mouth

Crystal Ball Mantel

Pliers

The Flake

The Stairs

North Face

Untold Story

The Bulge

North Flake

Corner, Sit

The Real Crystal Ball Mantel

Yabo Roof

Potholes (Center Start)

Face Eliminate

Ramada

Crowd Teaser

The Corner

Silent Running

Climb straight up to the right leaning flake and lieback this using the good feet.  Finish on a good hold and mantel over the top on somewhat slopey topout holds.

Sit start from low on the stairs (the downclimb) on Turlock. Work your hands up and slightly right on the stairs for a move or two until you can reach a thin, angled crimp out right. (This crimp is often used as a foothold when climbing The Bulge.) Keep working your way right, under the roof, to the large hueco out right. Then simply climb The Bulge problem by moving up and left on decent holds and pinches.

I'm not sure this is in any guidebook but locals know it. As I understand the history of this problem, this particular line used to be known as "The Bulge" until a key jug broke off at what is now the thin, angled crimp. This breakage made the problem much harder, and as a result, people would simply begin climbing the problem by starting from the large hueco instead of from left of the roof. So "The Bulge" (V1) is now when you start from the large hueco, and "The Real Bulge" (V4) is starting low and left of the roof as originally intended, working your way right to the hueco, then going up.

Please let me know if you know the FA or if the name/grade is disputed and I will revise.

Polished holds and a shallow pocket lead to a vertical lieback, then an attention getting mantle.  After that it's all cake.

Can be a little glassy.  Topout is easy 5th class.

Fun climb that follows just left of the chiseled stairs descent route.  IMO the crux move is the last left hand move to the sidepull, not too hard but you're sorta high up.

That last left hand flake flexes, so don't yard out on it.

Like Crowd Pleaser but do not step around, rather continue up the arete direct.

Tough moves right off the ground using the left-most pothole lead with some trouble up and then right to a large cave-like pothole, pass this on the right to the finishing cave-like pothole, then left of this to the finishing jugs.

Hardest of the three, crux being the start.

Traverse right out of the bottom cave and onto the right arete of the boulder (SE corner) up this a little then traverse left and jug up into the finishing cave, use good holds in the cave to reach the finishing jugs up and left.

Easiest of the three and packs a lot of variety for 15 feet of rock.

Start on the crystal ball and pull a big move out to the yabo roof(crown pleaser) flakes.

Yoga meets bouldering, use flexibility and strength - or a huge dyno...

Video

here.

one of the greats.

jump start or reach up for the tall folks to the crystal ball. Hump is the best term I can use to describe the move. Hump the ball bringing your right leg up and on top. use the small side pull for your right hand. sack up and reach left for the hold under the roof. Stand up, match, grab the soft ball to the left and fire to the jug. ROck up and out for  a spicy high ball top out with great holds.  This route is full value and if a crowded day you will get quiet the fan club when sending.

Holds just left of Slime lead to the same vertical hold used on Slime's lieback.  After grabbing the ledge and doing the mantel it's easy 5th class to the top.

Good positive holds on slightly overhanging rock.  It can be somewhat glassy.

Video

here.

The

downclimb for the boulder and the easiest way to the top if setting up a top-rope; follows a series of carved holds that vaguely resemble stairs.

This one starts as North Flake, up the trough to the ledge but then finishes directly up the face above and left of the flake - kinda highball and scary.

A nice easy cruise up the South West face.  Climbs several left pockets and a largish hole to finish on slopers near the top.

Start in the big pocket to the right under the bulge and go up and left doing a couple powerful moves mantling up to a deep little finger pocket on the face.  Top out from here.

Up a shallow dihedral (aka trough) leftwards to the ledge, traverse ledge to the right to the flake, up the face to the right of the flake in a super-exposed position.

Sit start to the Corner. Adds a couple of burly moves that can be done in many ways. A pinch-intensive problem!

Start with the opening moves of Pliers, but move left by getting your right hand on the higher left sidepull.  Slap up and over the rounded sloper, then mantel the sloping shelf.  No cheating by existing right to the jugs.

There are different ways up this depending on what holds are eliminated, with the easiest variation being perhaps a grade lower.  This is not to be confused with the problem named "Crystal Ball Mantel," which is on the north side of Turlock.

An aptly named classic and Stoney's best V2. Cool moves up the edge of the boulder, then right and up to a great flake. Suck up and go for the knob, now that you're committed; pull up and squirm over the top.

There's a convoluted history:

Original name was "Yabo Roof" - Crowd Pleaser was the left start variation of Crystal Ball Mantle avoiding the jump and body english of that route, heading up the arete then traversing right onto the ball (as shown on the front cover of the original SP Guide). Crystal Ball Mantle was left of Pliers, now renamed Real Crystal Ball Mantle - don't know the original name of the current CBM - confused anyone?

Video

here.

Face climbing on good incut holds leads to a large cave-like pothole, pass this on the right to the finishing cave-like pothole, then left of this to the finishing jugs.

Somewhat awkward.

Basically a variation start to the North Face/Flake Routes.

Start up the steeper, blanker face just left of the trough of the above-mentioned routes onto the ledge, then finish up one of those, or down climb the trough.

The first move is definately not 5.6 (according to Fry), so I assume the creekbed washed out some from when it was established.  After the initial 1-2 moves (hard) then it's all 5.6 to the top.  Climb straight up on good edges to the little tree growing out of the side of the rock.

A good variation to keep it 5.6ish or easier is to start just around the corner to the left and climb up traversing right as soon as possible, then continue up towards the little tree.

So you dated Cindy Crawford huh? Or was it a cardboard cutout? That's what this route is like, fun, but not the real thing.

Pull the first few moves of Crowd Pleaser to the good jug on the arete, now step left onto the face and finish up the North Flake Route.

This is a powerful problem which also requires precision footwork and some forethought.

It's fun, committing (at the top), and, being next to the trail, is another guaranteed crowd pleaser.

The crux comes quick as the first move off the ground.  Then up to a good 3-finger pocket, highstep and use the sidepull to finish it out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turlock