From the Lost and Found Ledge, climb the steep face using thin holds and clip the first bolt.  Stick the first difficult move and then gain the jug on the right.  Mantle up on the jug and reach high for a rail (crux) to gain a good stance at the 2nd bolt.  Move up and left to gain the large flake (yes, it's hollow but not going anywhere) and your first pro (at the base of the flake...makes you feel better but best not to fall on this piece).  Up the flake to a good ledge.  Move out left (passing a chunky block that won't come out) and up to stand on a huge, blocky flake.  Climb the corner/arete and face on your right, passing an old pin or two and then some small but dirty ledges (getting cleaner with traffic) that get easier as you go.  Finish up to Lower Broadway Ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

You can rap from the two-bolt anchor and then from a super-thread at the base of Touch And Go.  The 2nd rap goes over Lost And Found (5.7?) and will get you to the ground.

This climb was done ground-up, with both bolts drilled on lead from hooks.  There are two bolts for the lower section; the rest of the climb is on gear.

Touch and Go

Hero Pendulum

Captain Trivia

Skylab

Cardon's Rib

Rear Entry

Ladybug

Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind

Don't Think Twice

General Admission

Dislocated Shoulder

Dufty's Popoff

Lost and Found

The Tomato That Ate Cleveland

Kauffman-Cardon

R & R

Skyline Traverse

A Touch Too Much

Backstage Pass

Bee Sting Corner

Worrell's Thicket

Begin at a short left-facing corner with a small tree at the top of the corner.  Climb the corner and the outside face on the right, passing the small tree and step to a ledge.  Continue up to a pine tree and pass behind it on its left side (inside).  Continue up past a short curving corner (gear), passing several old fixed pitons and ring pins to a good stance on a horizontal.  Head straight up to the bolt that protects the final series of small ledges to the Lower Broadway Ledge.  There is some loose or hollow sounding rock, but the protection is good.

You will intersect Lower Broadway Ledge right at the base of the Lower Broadway Chimney.  You can make a belay on the tree there.

It's a really fun line that will get better with more traffic.

Start at the end of the first pitch of Skyline Traverse.

#1. From the belay ledge move right around the large block to a horizontal line of weakness. Follow this to Worrells Thicket. (110 ft.)

Start about 15 ft to the left of the Dufty's Popoff corner beneath a broken overhang.

#1. Leave the Skyline Traverse belay ledge and move right until below the overhang. Climb the face, passing through the overhang on its left side. Continue up the crack and merge with Dufty's at the roof. Finish on the normal route.

P1: Climb the steepening face, getting pro where you can, moving up to the small overhang at about half-height. Pull up into cracks and continue up the face, resisting the urge to step right to easier terrain. A good horizontal break provides a spot for a solid cam before you continue up, stepping right onto the obvious large ledge near the top.

Exposed, steep and airy.

A nice bit of exposure on a 5.4 climb to Lower Broadway! The climb hugs the outside (the east face) of a left facing corner right above a pine tree. Feet towards the top slowly become little knubbins on the edge of the arete giving the feeling of stepping on nothing! But the jugs are there and the climb is a ton of fun. Don't get caught in the tree at the beginning... especially if you're carrying a pack.

From the top of the block (mentioned in the Location section) go straight up to an overhang with an old manky pin about 5 ft below it and another manky-looking pin just above the lip. Place gear and move up past a few bolts. Step left to the corner and a nice rest.  Climb the corner past another bolt and gear placements to a stance below the overhang.  Climb the left side of the overhang and past the final bolts.  There isn't much for gear past the last bolt but you can sling a large protruding block with a 48" runner.  At the top you'll be where Dufty's Popoff tops out.  For an anchor you can use the pine tree that's about 15' back from the edge.

Move up to a good stance at the left facing corner (crux - harder if you use the pockets/cracks on the face).  Pull moves up to another good stance below the bulging rock.  Move up past 3 bolts to some easier ground.  Trend right and up past a gear placement or two and up to the last bolt (extended draw helpful).  Move right from the bolt and up to overhanging, left-facing corner.  Climb the face/corner up to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and belay.

Great link-up to Bee Sting Corner.

You could also step left on the ledge before the 4th bolt to a two-bolt anchor that's pretty much at the start of Dufty's Popoff.  Makes for another nice link-up.

Start is the same as for T&T (a much older route than this).  From the large tree near the wall at the base of Worrell's Thicket, boulder up some unprotected moves to a good stance.  You can get some thin gear here if you want.  Step up and move right to the first bolt.  Continue following the bolt line (gear placements as necessary between bolts).

At the two-bolt anchor you can either stop there and rap/lower or continue up to merge with T&T after a few moves up and left.  From there it's pretty easy to reach the Kaufmann-Cardon ledge and move back right on the ledge to the T&T cold shuts.  Finish on T&T.

In the event you need to rap after reaching the T&T shuts, you'll need to rap down to the Don't Think Twice anchor and then rap to the ground from there.

This route is sometimes used by the guides as a top-rope.

#1 Climb easy ledges to a left facing 15 ft. long corner.  Climb the corner to a stance and then climb past 3 bolts on the face above to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.  (5.9, 60 ft.)

#2  Move 10' right and climb a short steep left-facing corner.  At the top of the short corner, step left onto a narrow face.  Move carefully up and right around a detached block to broken ledges.  Climb the broken ledges approximately 15 ft. to another to bolt anchor.  (5.3, 40 ft.).  Alternatively, scramble up the wide tree covered ledge about 40 ft. to the same two bolt anchor.

#3  Climb the face above the bolted anchor, making a delicate traverse right at the first bolt before moving back left on good holds, passing 5 more bolts to finish at a gear anchor on Lower Broadway Ledge, 10' left of the first Lower Broadway chimney.  (5.8, 100 ft.)

#4 Climb the crack and arete directly above the gear anchor for about 30 feet to a dirt covered ledge.  Cross the ledge and climb the left-facing corner with a wide crack (#5 or #6 Camalot useful but not necessary) to a small ledge.  Climb the face above, passing four bolts to a belay on the Summit Ledge between UP AND COMING and OLD LADIES.  (5.9, 115 ft.)

This is the obvious left-facing dihedral that starts off to the left of Worrell's Thicket about halfway up to Lower Broadway. Scramble or climb up Worrell's Thicket until you reach a really nice ledge at the base of a clean corner system on the left.

P1: Follow the dihedral the whole way as is it undulates between low angle and overhung. Good stemming options keeps the climbing moderate (by Seneca standards, anyway). Fun stuff!

From the pine tree belay mentioned in the Location section, climb up the somewhat licheny face, plugging pro as needed and aiming for a blocky stance near the first bolt.  Move up the face to the second bolt on crimps, good edges and sometimes seemingly questionable holds; use the left corner arete as needed.  Gain a stance below the third bolt and weigh up the crux.  Climb up the face, clip the last bolt and cruise past a few 10ish moves using a fingerlock and more interesting holds that seem questionable but are surprisingly good.  Pull up to a small ledge (again, questionable finishing holds) and either continue up to Lower Broadway Ledge or set gear on long slings and traverse to the ledge on the far left and the S&M cold-shut anchors.

I found this climb to be an interesting change-up for the SE Corner and Seneca in general. Steep face climbing on some rather interesting and seemingly questionable holds that (as far as my experience went) really are just fine.

From the end of P1 of Skyline Traverse, move up and right onto the east face and locate some old pins.  Climb past an old pin and gain the small, blocky ledges.  Move up and right to the prominent left-facing inside corner.  Climb the corner to a point where you can step left onto the face, just below the overhang.  Move up, place pro, pull the overhang on the right side, and move up to a small ledge (get pro here).  Climb the face to the top (5.4 climbing on the face...pro is possible but you have to hunt for it!).

You'll top out on Lower Broadway Ledge.  Bee Sting Corner rap rings will be about 25 feet to your right.  From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left or to a set of rings close to the tree below Dufty's Popoff. Either of these last two sets will get you to the base.

Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge rapping with 60m rope will be really close to reaching the ground.  Be sure to tie knots in the ends and rap on climber's left of the left-facing corner below the K-C anchors.

Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.

Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there.

Climb the face and crack past the pod to a stance on a small ledge up and left of the crack.  Find a marginal small cam placement (Purple Mastercam or similar..it's a little hidden, but it's there) and make a reachy move up to a very positive hold and then move up above the alcove to just below a large tree on a ledge.  Move up and right to a short wall.  Climb the short wall to a large ledge and tree belay at the base of a steep wall with two bolts above (Touch and Go).  The final 15 feet or so is unprotected 5.3 climbing.

It's a little dirty right now but will improve with more traffic.  Be careful getting up to the start as the soil is loose in this area.

#1: Climb the unprotected face (5.7) to a ledge...aim for the small tree on the left. Sling the tree for pro and move up the corner (an overhang is to the left) to another tree you can sling (sizable runout between trees). Continue climbing up on unprotectable, but decent rock, with good holds and some fun moves. You'll probably see the bolts for T&T to your right. Aim for a small overhang with a crack beneath it. Get some good gear at the overhang, then pull it on great holds (crux 1) and move up to a stance at a left-leaning crack, just below the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge. On busy weekends you can build an anchor in the cracks, otherwise move up to the K-C ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

#2: From the K-C ledge climb the wide crack that is left of Bee Sting Corner. Climb straight up to the roof (look for the old pins). Pull the roof (crux 2) on some interesting flakes and move up and left. From this point, the original route continued moving up and left but the rock is absolutely worthless, loose, rotten, hollow and dangerous, lichen-covered crap...so get some decent gear then climb straight up the face and finish to the Bee Sting Corner two-bolt rap anchor.

Rap off or just step up to Lower Broadway Ledge and head to other climbs.

Overall it's a decent line and an alternative on busy weekends. The toughest R section is right off the ground. The rest of the R climbing is on good holds and decent rock. Both cruxes are protectable. If you're comfortable leading Seneca 7's, don't mind being above your gear a ways and are looking for a decent adventure climb, this is a good option. Not for the budding 5.7 leader.

Fall and winter are the best time since the leaves will be off any of the small trees that are around the lower part of P1. Also, as with much of the East Face, be aware of the possibility of bees.

Climb the cracks and thin face (crux) up to a decent rest about 15-20' up.  Move right and follow the larger crack system and chimney up to the tree.  You can anchor on the tree but I find it best to sling the tree, step around it on the outside and move up and right to the two-bolt rap station about 15' above it.  You could also continue up and right past the two-bolt station and merge with Ladybug to pull the overhanging corner and gain the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge.

A fun, pumpy and very interesting route that is in-your-face hard off the deck, but protectable with small cams or nuts.  Careful in the chimney/cracks below the tree as there is some loose stuff in there.  Best done when the leaves aren't on the trees.  Gets the morning sun and is nice when the temps are low.

A good way to access Bee Sting Corner or just to get up to Lower Broadway Ledge if Skyline Traverse is clogged up.

P1: From the Skyline Traverse belay ledge move right towards the prominent Dufty's Popoff corner.  Climb up the right wall of the corner for about 15-20 ft and begin traversing right around the corner.  When you turn the corner and look up you should be able to see the large Kauffman-Cardon ledge up and to the right.  Belay from bolts on the ledge.

P2: Continue moving right on the ledge past the obvious Bee Sting Corner and a pine tree.  Keep moving up and right on easy ledges until it's possible to move up to Lower Broadway Ledge.

Obvious left-facing dihedral that starts just off the ground and to the left of Worrell's Thicket. There might be some small shrubbery in the corner.

Climb the corner, passing some some small vegetation to a good stance below the wide part.  Plug your biggest piece and layback the big flake, pulling up onto a nice ledge.  Move right to a two-bolt anchor at the start of the route S&M (also very nice).

A nice climb in the cooler months.

The line right above the bolts is S&M;  Dislocated Shoulder is up and to the right.

A classic and easy route. The ledge at the top of the first pitch is big, but will have beginners clinging to the rock .The first few moves of the 2nd pitch are very exposed.

There is a lot of loose rock on the 3rd pitch, be careful not to dislodge rocks because there will be people below you.

1st Pitch

Climb the chimney and cracks to the left of the ledge for 50ft. At the ledge traverse north to a left facing corner. Climb the corner and face to rings, pitons, or a gear anchor on a large ledge to the left with views to the south. Watch for hollow flakes on this pitch.

2nd Pitch

Step out from the ledge to the large chimney. Be sure to protect your seconds during the first few moves, a fall will swing them into the wall. Continue up the crack and chimney to the right. Climb until you reach a large sloping ledge with a tree. Belay from tree and gear.

3rd Pitch

Continue up the chimney. It eventually breaks down into a rock covered slope. Belay from tree and roots. The 2nd and 3rd pitches can be strung together.

Begin as for Touch And Go.  Climb Touch And Go through its crux and clip the 2nd bolt with a long runner.  Move up underneath the flake to a good stance with a left sidepull.  Make a long reach right to a crack and solid finger-lock that you can't see.  Step all the way out right, get gear and climb the crack and flake up to a good ledge.  Climb the face above on thin crimps and edges past two bolts and gear placements.  Finish up to the top on easy ledges to a two-bolt anchor.

Rap back off, walk-off Lower Broadway or head up to Upper Broadway by walking along the ledge to climber's right; this leads to the easy ledge system near the Upper Broadway Chimney.

Fun, face climbing on small edges. A few cruxy sections at 5.8 throughout.  Revised the description after sorting this out and comparing with R&R.

#1 Climb the large, left-facing corner system to an off-width that widens the higher you go. Just before you start into the off-width there is a horizontal crack where you can plug a black tri-cam (I've also used an offset blue/purple master cam). Use the #4 Cam a little ways up, then crank up the off-width to the ledge above. Good idea to place a re-direct piece on the main wall here, then step right to the anchors.(Cold shuts)  5.6 PG

#2 Follow the line of bolts straight up the face. You'll pass a small overhang and then work up the face past left-leaning cracks.  At the end of the face climbing you'll top out on the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge next to a pine tree (the face directly above you is 5.12R). Move right on the ledge to the final corner of R&R. Pull the short corner up to another large ledge. Either continue directly up to Lower Broadway Ledge (careful of loose rock!) or move left to a two-bolt anchor. (Going directly up behind the pine tree is hard 5.12-ish) 5.8 G

I copied this over (and edited the incorrect information) from the posting on the South End...it's not on the South End at all. Smack dab in the middle of the SE Corner.

P1: Climb the face with many really positive holds past many bolts. About 20 ft below the Kauffman Cardon Ledge, there's a set of shuts. To do the entire route, skip these shuts and head up and right, up a left-leaning crack system to reach a stance on Kauffman-Cardon. Move further right about 5-10 ft and find the coldshuts on Kauffman Cardon...these are NOT the ring-anchors to the left of Bee Sting Corner but a set of coldshut anchors located about 1/3 of the way through K-C's 2nd pitch. A piece or two may be needed here in the last 20 ft to reach the ledge. Aim for about 10 ft right of the pine tree on the K-C Ledge. If you just climb to the first set of shuts, it's probably easier than 5.9.

P2: Continue up the face slightly to the left of the belay. A piece or two of gear can be placed before the first bolt. From the bolt, aim for the small overhang, pass 2 more bolts, and climb to the top. Crux is near the overhang.

P1: Climb the face on easy holds passing a couple of small trees you can sling for pro.  Move up to a steeper face past 2 bolts and a gear placement or two.  Some questionable rock but the moves are fun.

P2:  Move up and right from P1's top-out on the ledge and begin beneath the obvious open face.  Make a few tricky moves down low to get to the first bolt then continue up passing the 2nd bolt, a possible gear placement and the 3rd bolt.  You'll top out right where Worrell's Thicket tops out on Lower Broadway Ledge.  There's a tree at the ledge you can use for an anchor.

Overall it's a decent route when everything else is busy and you want to quickly get up to Lower Broadway.  A little dirty but not unexpectedly so.

From the end of P1 of Kauffman-Cardon, climb the large, left-facing corner. Pull the bulge at the top (crux) and move up to the large ledge with rap rings.

To descend, you can rap from the rings atop Bee Sting Corner.  From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left or to a set of rings close to the tree below Dufty's Popoff. Either of these last two sets will get you to the base.

Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge rapping with 60m rope will be really close to reaching the ground...be sure to tie knots in your rope ends and rap to climber's left of the big left-facing corner just below the K-C ledge.

Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.

Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there

Start about 100 feet uphill of the southeast corner at a long low angle ramp.

#1-#2. Climb the ramp in two easy pitches. Angle up and right until the Broadway Ledge is reached. (160 ft.)

Many use it to get to other places.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southeast Corner