This climbs the groove between

Better than Watching TV

and

Better Than the Internet

.

Diagonal up and right to a small roof then continue up to the sixth bolt shared with

Better than Watching TV

. Climb BTWTV for a couple moves then continue up and slightly right to a thin face crux and anchors shared with

Better Than the Internet

.

Just Get Outside

Saline Lock

Lunch Bucket Crack

Tool Man

Dr. Food

The O-Face

Down on the Pharm

Better Than the Internet

Silver Girl

Farenheit  5.11

BlackWave

Buttercup

Gates of Crystal

Thursday Afternoon Hooky

Orange Crimpsicle

Bananarête

Fantastic Planet

Clean-Up on Aisle 9

Unknown West Crack

Better than Watching TV

Balaam

Crystal Method

Bolt Dependence

Tour de Poudre

First pitch: start off on two cold shuts, then traverse right then back left. This route seems to be all over the wall. The bolt placement seems strange, and they are very spread out, although they are there when you need them. As long as you are confident at the grade, this route won't make you sweat too much, 5.10a, 90'.

Second pitch: ? 5.11d, 75'.

This is the second new route to the right of "

Clean Up on Aisle 9

."  It has good movement, a crux low, and is fun.

Another ledgy route to the right of the multi-pitch routes on the Main Wall.  Utilizes good face holds around the rotten crack that runs up the wall, as well as a couple holds in the crack.  Bear right through more challenging terrain after the last bolt to the anchors.

This route is a little bit dirty, probably since it doesn't see traffic due to the fact that the bolts disappear as you look up the line from the ground.  Also of note, the middle third of the starting ledge seems loose, and there's a hollow flake to the left of said ledge that is easily, and prudently, avoided.

4 bolts of easy climbing lead to some tricky 5.10 moves through the suddenly vertical yellow lichen covered middle section of the route.  Gradually easier climbing ends abruptly below the crux bulge and the last bolt (reach high from good holds below bulge to clip).  A couple of harder moves on micro edges are followed by increasingly better holds to the chains.

This is a newer route, not in the guide, just right of "

Clean Up on Aisle 9

".  I was contacted by the FA, so this is the actual name.  It has really fun movement (be aggressive) on small but secure edges.

Start just left of

Thursday Afternoon Hooky

. Go up 3 bolts of dirty, black rock. Then head up the ramp until you can step over onto the nice, clean, orange panel of rock. The first three bolts of the face is the crux. This might be easier if you are tall. It is somewhere around .11d or .12a. Climb up to the O in the face, a really cool feature in the rock where you get to use the whole circle. Then cruise the rest of the line around .11a/b.

Down On The Pharm is the easiest route at Crystal Wall.  It is supposed to be 2 pitches in length, but the second pitch is still in progress.  According to the

Poudre Canyon Rock Climbing Guide

, there are only seven bolts.  As of 5/31/2011, there were at least 10 bolts.  The crux of the first pitch is at a small bulge while crossing over a corner to the right.

P1) 5.10: S

tarting just left of the large juniper, follow camouflaged hangers up a steep wall past a thin section to a right-facing dihedral. From the dihedral, diagonal up and left across a thin slab to the anchors. This makes for a nice single pitch sport route.

P2):  5.11a: Climb blocky terrain up to a somewhat crumbly dihedral on gear.  Exit the crack and follow bolts liebacking a crackless dihedral to the anchor. It’s best to do the route as a single pitch as the hanging belay atop the first pitch sucks.

Plug away at the easy stuff to begin with then move up to where the angle increases and the hold size decrease. Fun and interesting moves with several side pulls and gastons. Crux comes up towards the end with pulls off of small crimps and crystals (hopefully they hold). Good foot work will have you sailing up this route.

Rumor has it that a second pitch was planned but never completed. Anchors have been established at the top, but no route as of now.

I really enjoyed the first pitch of this climb. It goes 5.10c and has a great crux move about 50 feet off the ground. It is very pumpy (as all the climbs here seem to be) and a really respectable length. The second pitch goes 5.12a/b? This route is also bolted very well.

Surf your way through the sea of crimps over the black waves before tackling the last tidal wave arete.

Start behind the evergreen tree up and left of

Gates of Crystal

. Clip the first bolt from the ground (which protects both belayer and climber from a tumble to base of

Gates

). Follow five more bolts left of yellow lichen to ring anchors at the big ledge. This is a bit more technical than

Gates

, but overall it is of similar difficulty. Have fun, and buckle up for Buttercup!

This follows a line of well-placed bolts through some fun holds to a blocky finish and nice anchors.

More interesting and rewarding climbing than its neighbors, Gates offers some fun movement on good holds.  The finish offers a couple different options.  The more difficult of the two (in case you can't feel around for the easy way) is probably 5.8.

This is the crack system that splits the orange band of rock near the center of the lower half of the wall.  At the point the route hits the mini-roof below the wide groove roughly halfway up it is reasonable to avoid the runout finish above by traversing right around the arete to reach the anchors on

Tool Man

.  This makes for a decent, albeit less adventurous, variation to the original route which continues up the groove (appears to offer very little pro if any) to a ledge and follows a nasty looking, left-facing chimney to the top of the wall.

Orange Crimpsicle (also known as the O.C.) starts 40ft left of

Fahrenheit 5.11

. Climbs up the obvious orange streak. First crux is around the 5th and 6th bolt and then climbs to a big ledge. A second crux off  the ledge leads to more 5.11 climbing to the anchors. This route could be harder or easier. Guess you will have to get on it to see.

One of the finer and more traveled 9s at Crystal Wall. Fun and steep climbing through some long, juggy pulls leads to a few moves of 9+ technical crux before the chains.

There is currently a flake between bolts 2 & 3 which may or may not need to be pitched at a later date.  It's "X-ed", but use good judgment if you decide to yard on it.

The first pitch of this climb goes 5.9+ R and is the easiest pitch I know of on the Crystal Wall. The bolts are run out quite a bit in a few spots but definitely adds spice to the route. The second pitch goes about 11c, and ,like all the routes on the Crystal Wall, the second pitch is a bit shorter than the first. There are rap anchors for both pitches.

This route and the two to the left that share space on the farthest right side of the wall are nice easy routes.  Straightforward climbing, good holds the whole way up.

Aisle 9 has a steep start with ledgy holds leading to easy ground on more nice ledges, with another short bulgy section right before the anchors.  Start low and to the right of the first bolt for a bouldery problem to begin the route.

The obvious crack system on the right (west) side of the wall.  I don't know the history behind this route and I'm not certain about the grade so if anyone knows more about it pass it on.  The first pitch follows broken easy ground with climbing that gradually improves to a belay roughly halfway up.  Some bushes/vegetation will be encountered down low.  There are probably a few options for the belay but there was an old pin at the spot we chose (along with some good pro).

The 2nd pitch follows the nice 5.9 crack that splits the blank, lichen-covered face to the top right side of the wall, then traverses the crack heading out left below the big roof.  Continue left on easy ground to reach the black chain achors at the top of

Fantastic Voyage

.  I heard it is possible (and not as hard as it looks) to climb the crack that goes straight up through the far right side of the big roof at the end, but I haven't done it and know nothing more.

Follow the first four bolts up the wall, trending right after the 4th to a good rest.  Commit back left into the flake, complete a fun, crimpy crux problem up to good ledges and a reasonable finish.

Not your typical clip-up to say the least, and possibly deserving of an "R" rating.  There is potential for big falls in places, but I wouldn't say it's super dangerous.  There is just enough protection and falls should generally be clean air (on my 1st attempt leading it a hold broke when I was topping out and I sailed pretty far without ever hitting the wall - it wouldn't have been so bad except that then I had to lead it again!).

This 175' pitch goes straight to the top of the wall with very little wandering.  The crux is immediately after the 1st bolt (about 30' up where the seam disappears) and gradually eases as the seam reappears.  Gear can be found just a few feet above the bolt, but it's tricky to place and the stances are insecure - just punching it to the easier ground was the ticket for me.  There is another slightly easier crux up high as you slab your way through the last couple of bolts.  It is easy to climb right to the 1st anchor on

Fantastic Voyage

to split the route into 2 pitches or avoid the top half if desired.

This is the bolted route immediately to the left of

Fahrenheit 5.11

about 6-8' and to the right of

Bananarête

.

This route is the second bolted route from the right on the Crystal Wall. The first bolted route on the right is Fantastic Voyage which I believe Craig Luebben put up. Tour de Poudre is well-bolted, goes about 100 feet for the first pitch, and has two rap anchors at the top. The first pitch goes around 5.10a/b. The second pitch is a bit shorter and more difficult. The second pitch is also well-bolted, has rap anchors, and goes around 5.12b/c. I am not absolutely sure of these ratings, although I feel they should be close.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Face