A future Tulsa CLASSIC. A really fun problem that doesn't let up until the very end. Start low matched on a small crimp rail and reach left into a series of 3-4 pockets. Throw for a wavy and sloping slot and finish the top-half with some surprisingly reachy moves.

Edge of Darkness (AKA: Pocket Problem)

Copperhead Corner

Titanic

Titanic Direct

Castleton

Lowlander

Hermes' Lyre

Hermes Lite

Lite Blue Cords

Highlander

Sit start with hands high; left hand on a small crimp, right hand on a sidepull. Left hand up to a good rail, and then up to pockets. Top out straight up.A lower, scrunch sit start, low to ground ALL the way under the bulge with hands matched on the jug goes at a harder grade, maybe a stout V5. *Haven't actually seen any snakes here but I like alliteration. Route is also known as Vice Roof.

The white-streaked blunt arete just 10 ft to the right of Lite Blue Cords. I'm unsure about the ideal or original start holds. The exact line depends on how far low and right you start but once through the initial hard moves trend straight up the blunt edge of the arete.

SDS for the titanic line. Start on small "crimps" or nubs and hit a left undercling. Establishing and making this move will probably be the crux for most people. Grab a right crimp and set up for a long move to a mono crimp pocket. Pull from here to a left hand rounded crimp hold. One more large move to a slopey pocket. Enjoy the easier top out. I gave this a 3star rating, more so that the line is not an eliminate and tall, and hard.. which we usually don’t get too much of at Avery or Chandler. Enjoy. it would be 4 IMO if it had a more obvious starting hold.

Fun compression climbing on a gently bulging feature sitting on an arete. Start beneath the bulge and climb up into it, topping out the problem on the right side of the arete.

Starting lower and to the left of the original stand start of Highlander. Match on an undercling jug, move up and right through small pockets/crimp. From here you should essentially be a couple/few moves into Highlander. Continue up and smash that deadpoint!

An enticing line up one of the most striking faces out here. Start in a large undercling jug in the back of the roof, same as Lite Blue Cords start. Reach out to the face using tension and a couple crimps. Set up and commit to a good jug on the face using it to hold the swing outwards. Move straight up through the face of the lyre and to a slightly airy top.

Stand start on the left side of the block in the diagonal seam. Work your way left up the crack, then climb jugs out to the top out of Hermes' Lyre - or top out straight up on the left side (less exciting but same grade). 

Classic boulder in the Avery Drive area. Climbs the left side of this sharply overhanging arete in the SE corner of the area. It uses really fun toe hooks/cams and a heel hook all the way to the final big move. Originally featured in the Send Nation Tulsa video at 5:33 

vimeo.com/45830540

  Another video for beta: instagram.com/p/BQQc18rDbPU…

First climbed on a top rope and graded 5.12a in the '80s, this line makes for a great boulder with a variety of quality holds, leading to a desperate lunge off of bad crimps. Stand start beneath the white water streak off of a left crimp and right hand gaston sloper. Work straight up to the right of the obvious finish jug and then crimp hard to set up for the final deadpoint up and to the left.

This is the fourth area you will come to (that I know of ) after passing Chandler Park. Vice Grips will be on your left opposite the Arkansas River before you get to the creek feeding into the Arkansas River. Approx. 3.2 miles past Chandler Park entrance. This area is well of the road...approx. 400+ yards.

 Parking on the south side near the fenced in building will likely get you a ticket.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Vice Grips