There is clean, solid rock all the way on this one. Buster Brown is an elegant technical route.

Moderate climbing starts up a fun tight hands crack, over a pillar, and through a small roof. From the jugs above the roof begin the hard climbing by breaking hard right to a left-angling flake/dike and follow it to another small rooflet with underclings. From here, gain a finger crack and follow it to a large flake and jugs out left. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor. This is a pretty sustained route with no distinct crux.

Buster Brown

Dude's Jam Crack

Missing Link

Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect

Major Dude

Mighty Aphrodite

Open Space Cowboy

Uplift Mofo Party Plan

Major Party Plan

Raven's Brew

Impeachment Day Parade

Chili Power

Dude's Abs

Dude's Cave

Jugs Out For The Lads

Green Chile

Red Hot Chili Peppers

Double Dominatrix

Brass Monkey

Short Dude

Getting Down Before Getting Up

Jolly Squeeze Party

Jolly Rancher

Slightly Aphrodite

Golden Gate

Dude's Way

Any Doodle Do

Sky Chi

Dude's Five Nine

Howdy Doody Time

In Harmsen's Way

White Russian

Dude's Dihedral

This splendid crack climb would be at right home at Cookie Cliff, or any other granite crack climber's crucible.  It is well-protected throughout.

This is a gear link-up of two sport routes.  Clip the first five bolts of

Open Space Cowboy

.  Where that route then heads right, instead pull left into a left-facing dihedral.  Stem up to an overhang, pull through, climb a short hand/finger crack, and then clip the last two bolts and anchor of

Howdy Doody Time

!

Start on

Dude's Jam Crack

and pull the first roof. Then right before the second roof, place cams under the flake go left to

Impeachment Day Parade's

second roof, then clip the three bolts and the anchors on

Impeachment Day Parade

.

This is a fun route to do if you have done

Dude's Jam Crack

and

Impeachment Day Parade

. It is different and fun. Be careful how you run your rope, so you don't have drag on the upper roof.

Major Dude was the first hard route at Dudes.

Ascend the steep face (5.9) just right of a right-facing corner to reach a stance at the base of the overhung face. Move up and left to 6th bolt. Crank over a bulge, and move up right to a jug or shelf below the lip of a small roof.  Clip the 7th bolt above the lip & execute a crux sequence using a pinch on a short arête to reach brutal hand jams.  Pull over the roof on a flared hand jam to reach a good jug on the right. Finish up overhung face moves.

F.A.: John Flunker & Mark Rolofson on July 19, 2003.

This is a weird, trickier-than-it-looks sport climb that feels slippery in spots with a few cruxes in its short length just left of

Short Dude

.  Move up on face moves to a thin stretch.  The first crux involves a thin left foot move.  There's a part where it's just hard to get the hands right.  Now move up under a roof.  It's a bit awkward to pull over the roof to the right, and somehow the rock gives you a bit less confidence.  Now up to the anchors...phew.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

Burly, thuggish 5.11 leads to the first crux.  After pulling the tricky .12a undercling traverse, pull up onto a slab to rest up for the second .12a crux; thin, powerful moves lead to big holds to pull through the roof to the anchors.

Solve the first steep crux then turn on the afterburners and brachiate from huge rail-jug to rail-jug as the pump factor clock ticks.  Be ready for sustained steepness with big throws all the way to the anchors.

This route is a link up that starts with"

Major Dude

" & finishes on "

Uplift Mofo Party Plan

".

Climb

Major Dude

past 6 bolts to just below the roof & its crux. Traverse left on a horizontal crack past a bolt in a black streak. If it feels scary to get to this bolt, then clip the 7th bolt on

Major Dude

(with a long sling).  The traverse joins

Uplift Mofo Party Plan

at its 6th bolt. This route offers a good pump on mostly big holds.

A lone bolt protects the start, then easy climbing leads across a blocky ledge to the route.  The crux involves a thuggish undercling combined with a high step then a big reach up and left.

With two dramatic roof crux pulls, this route packs in a lot of punch.  Tricky, Elvis-like hip moves to set up for big throws help you get through the low roof.  The final roof crux demands steady body tension to a big throw out to the very lip of the final, airy roof.

Clip the first two blots using the large block on the left. We used the horn and finger crack on the left to jog right and then fired straight up. This seemed obvious, but it was not 5.11+ climbing. Alternatively, a hard move lurks between clips 1 and 2 that might yield a straight up line at the harder grade. There is a nice move passing third clip. This has terrrific rock, but it is way too short.

Dude's Abs is a slab route that starts in the middle of the boudler, moves to the left edge of the boulder, and works its way up and across to reach a topout. The route starts with two perfect crimps. It requires a match on the undercling to the left of the start. The crux is a massive static left hand to the sloper at the far left. The rest of the problem is simple slab. Caution, the route is directly over a series of smaller boulders. I highly recommend a spotter for this one.

This route starts in the bottom of the overhanging rock. The start is a hand jam with your left hand while your right hand is in the lowest crack. You reach out with your right hand to an awesome hold to your right. Release your left hand, work it up the left side till you feel a pretty solid crimp, and match with your right. There are two jugs up top for the finish. Top out to finish.

This is the furthest right bolted line at the crag.  It ascends an arete of sorts. It has a low footsy crux with slippery hands and a higher, arm pumping crux.  It's sort of a warmup, but you may find it stiff for the 5.8 rating once given to the route.  There was a bit of grit on the route still as of June, 2010.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

The opening moves are not too difficult to clip first bolt.  The next move is left, the second clip more difficult. The crux move is up to third bolt.  Climbing past the last 2 bolts is mid- to hard-10.

Climb a face with a crux sequence right off the ground, make a deadpoint to a sloper, hike your feet up, and get a quick shake. A few moderate moves leads to a tricky clip and another 12 b/c crux. This crux is very different than the lower one. I've heard some people start on the boulder next to the climb skipping the first crux. This route is really short anyways, so why skip the starting moves? They add whole another crux and make the route better. If you step from the boulder, it's 12b/c. If you climb directly, it is 12c.

This a probably my favorite route at Dude's Throne and the one I was most drawn to establish.

I have redpointed it 13 times as of 2010. Scramble up to a ledge & clip 1st bolt.  Move up right on easy terrain to 2nd bolt.  The first 5.12 crux ascends a vertical edge via lieback moves.  Enter a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral that is followed to a double set of roofs.  The second 5.12 crux uses small holds to reach jugs over the roofs.  The third 5.12 crux uses small holds to get stood over the roof on the jugs. Continue up a steep face to a small 5.11 bulge that leads to a good ledge. Move right a few feet on the ledge & rest up!  Finish up a bulging .12a face, moving up left past the last 2 bolts.

Start 15 feet right  of "

Golden Gate

". Climb a vertical face up a short arête past 2 bolts to a roof. Step left & clip the 3rd bolt under the roof's lip. Pull over the roof (.12a) along a short, left-facing corner past the 4th bolt.  Take a good rest above the roof on a 1" wide foothold. Make a blind reach over a small roof to clip the 6th bolt that protect the crux.  Traverse right around the roof to a sharp sidepull. Reach poor crimpers, & dyno to an undercling.  A strange move off the undercling reaches a sloping shelf. A final hard section, past the 8th bolt gains jug. Stroll to the anchor.

Long slings are recommended on the first 2 bolts to reduce rope drag.  I clip the 2nd bolt with a short quickdraw & a long sling on the same biner into the bolt hanger.  Once I've clipped 3rd bolt, I reach down and unclip from the short quickdraw on the 2nd bolt.  A long draw is nice on the 7th bolt, because clipping off the undercling is dicey.  This route has a wild crux sequence.

Though quite short, this route is quite fun.  If there, I'd recommend it for the average Joe...though Josefina might find it reachy.  Move up into a small nook of sorts with underclings.  You can awkwardly reach out right to clip the 2nd bolt.  Now the fun...move right with a smidge of reach and power to just the right spot, get your feet set out right, pull up and around.  Move back left to a jug, then up and right. Clip the anchors and smile.

This may feel 5.10 for the tall dude.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

The crux is getting off the ground and moving into the first hold. The feet are shady at best, otherwise the hands are great.

This is a nice line just to the right of

Jolly Rancher

with an interesting crux.

Once you've led

Jolly Rancher

, you can climb straight up to the rightmost bolt (of 3).  The crux seemed to be about 1/3 the way up.  At the blank bulge, you can go straight up if you are really tall, you can move to the right to abut

Uplift Mofo Party Plan

at its 2nd bolt, or you can move left abutting

Jolly Rancher

with a sidepull.  There is another off-balance move pulling up to a couple jugs.  You can get a rest sitting on the jugs.  Easier moves lead to the anchor.

Mellow slab moves lead to steeper rock and a pumpy finish.

Begin on

Dude’s Dihedral

, and merge into

Mighty Aphrodite

. Avoid clipping the many bolts along the way — good trad pro can be placed, although you could get pumped. We walked off.

This route offers up two fantastic sections separated by a commodius ledge.  Climb the prow with big reaches to hidden jugs, mantle, and take a nap.  When you wake up take a stab at the crux face, then into the gate.  Pulling through the roof, through the gate, and onto the ledge is like going through some kind of crazy re-birth.

This is the right start to the 4th bolted line from the right.  This is a route where it's probably best not to have sloppy shoes for the average climber.  Crux moves right off the deck with crimping and thin foot holds challenge you.  Fortunately, you get a decent left hand sidepull.  Shortly, you gain the juggy ledge where you can mantle up. Probably best not to blow this section where the rock is in your face.  Ascend far more moderate terrain past 5 more bolts to the top.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

This is the second bolted line from the right.  It has an easy start with a reachy crux at the 4th bolt.  Taller climbers may find it easier since it may be climbed more directly, whereas short climbers may find it harder, since you have to do more intermediate moves to the right.  It is nice in that you can back down to a good rest if you have to go up and figure out the sequence.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

This is like Tai Chi, but practiced where rock and sky meet.  I always find climbing at Dude's energizing, particularly on a sunny, crisp fall day.  It has a lot of variety in 75 feet. We climbed this after the new guidebook was published.

This is a decent line, probably easier than

Jugs Out For The Lads

that ascends the 3rd from the right bolted line.  There is an interesting crux move around the 2nd bolt which can be done to the right with a foot on the mini-arete or more directly with a mantle of sorts.  Continue up fun, ledgy, more moderate terrain.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

Bring your full bag of tricks for this one; success will demand a bit of route finding, power, and finesse.  The movement and exposed positions are memorable to say the least.

Climb easy rock onto a ledge above the belay. From the ledge, the route climbs up and left on beautiful gold rock, traverses right into a corner, and continues up onto the arete and face above.

Say kids, what time is it?

It's Howdy Doody Time!

It's Howdy Doody Time.

It's Howdy Doody Time.

Bob Smith and Howdy Do

Say Howdy Do to you.

Let's give a rousing cheer,

Cause Howdy Doody's here,

It's time to start the show,

So kids let's go!

This is an interesting route that is joined by

Dude's Way

(which was added later) to the right at its 3rd bolt.  Start up with a crux crack move or two which feel kind of physical.  Move up and right on face moves.  There are nice bulges to pass midway and near the top.  The rating posted here is that of 2 climbers who just climbed it.

Supplemental cams might be nice but are not required.

For more details, check out Mark's new guide...fading memory is not as good.

I'm told other climbers think this is

5.10.

Begin in the right-facing dihedral a few feet left of the start of

Major Dude

. Ascend the dihedral as it curves right. Avoid clipping the many bolts, while remembering to protect for your second, as the route crosses

Major Dude

and

Golden Gate

. Continue right, indulging in intoxicating exposure, to the first traditionally protected opportunity to climb upward. Stagger off.

The crux is between the 4th and 5th bolts, climbing over first minor roof.

The guide locates the Dude's Dihedral route left of

Mighty Aphrodite

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dude's Throne