Start matched on the big hold. Traverse left to the right facing undercling, then use the pockets up and to the left to make your way up to the ledge. Keep your feet on the right side of the crack while you climb up.

Jelly Beans for Power

GRÜV

Samson the Otter

Can't Trust the Weatherman

Lego Spaceship

Desperation

G-Spot

Golden Days

Happiness Lake

Hernia

Whitney

Writers Block

Aerial

LEAF!!

High Life

Fun boulder/variation to the start of Can't Trust the Weatherman. Start under the overhang on a sloper.  Big moves up to the juggy holds on the ridge-like formation. Don't use the side pull jug on the left - out of bounds. Using this as the start to Can't Trust the Weatherman makes a fun variation that'll pump you out for the rest of the journey up, about 5.10d.

Hand jam the starting move. Follow the crack up over a slight overhang.  Follow the line in the topo photo.

A challenging and slippery boulder problem that gives the route a 5.10a rating begins the route followed by slippery face climbing on sloppy edges to the top. This route was the first FA put up the in area.

Continue right away with some bouldery moves.  Stay right of the flake about 15 feet up that belongs to LEAF!! and stay right to the finish.

Tough boulder problem up and over the ledge, then pumpy moves to the finish. Start with hands on the low ledge, then match the bad, right-facing side pull. From there, reach far out right and back to the ledge to a jug, shift over and pull. There are a couple different options of holds that will help you get over the roof and past the crux, climber's choice. Once over the ledge, stay to the right of the big crack on slightly overhanging, decent holds. Don't fall here, because getting the boulder problem crux but not sending would be really embarrassing.

A good route with some big, powerful moves and fun holds. Start under the crevice and go straight up. Right under where the two sides of the crevice meet, there is a small triangle. The savvy climber will find a good undercling hidden about 4 inches within. Continue up the spine on the right side for a couple moves, find some juggy side pulls, and work your way up. Top out for an extra dose of fun. NOTE: All of the left side of the crevice is off route.

Fun moves. Great rock.  Start at the darker rock band in the middle of Shipwreck Rock and go straight up.  Pretty obvious holds.  Crux is at the top.  Make sure to top out at the highest point on the wall - it's the best part.Could be a pretty high-ball boulder problem as well - landing is ok.

Start to the right of the overhang. See photo for exact start.  Follow bolts.

Two hand sit start, climb the crack to the ledge, follow the round arete type feature up to the top using left hand side-pulls and small horizontal ledges. Top out for extra spice

Off-width going all the way up. Can use both sides.

Probably one of, if not the best, hard route on the wall. Fun, powerful moves on the bottom, a heel hook, two (!) kneebars, and a sketchy topout all packed into 30 feet of pure Penokean climbing. What more can you ask for? Note: To the right and left of the cracks creating the "V" is off route. Beta incoming!Start at the bottom of the V and climb the right face using decent left hands and your right hand side pulling the right crack. Pull a big move to the horizontal, incut ledges just under the overhang. You can throw a knee bar to help this move. From there, gain the good ledges just over the top of the overhang, jam the left heel hook, and reach out for the large side pull on the left. Continue to the overhanging boulder thing on top. Top out for the full experience (and 3 feet of extra climbing).

Sit start on the short arete on the left side of the overhang follow the crack up and to the left to the small ledge. From there go straight up, veering right for the finish. Probably one of the best routes on the wall.

Start low. Find the good ledges to pull big move over the roof and cruise to the top. For the brave (read: ballsy), it could be done as a boulder which ends with pulling over the roof.*Potential loose block around this route - be careful*

A secluded sandstone crag in a small, wooded Northern Wisconsin valley in the area known as the "Blue Hills."  The main section of the crag has a length of about 100 feet and an average height of about 25 feet.  Up and down the valley where it lies, there are numerous opportunities for bouldering.  The Blue Hills are the remains of an ancient mountain range, called the Penokean Mountains that ran from Niagra Falls through Northern Wisconsin. A couple of sections are currently being cleaned.  The rock around LEAF!! (5.10a) is generally clean and great for climbing.  Golden Days (5.10b), while a shorter route, is an excellent choice to test out your reach on great holds.  Bolts were just added to Happiness Lake (5.8+) and hopefully more will be added soon.  A perfect spring or fall training ground for those in Northern Wisconsin, as summer climbing here is almost impossible with the amount of mosquitoes. If you plan on climbing here regularly, it may be helpful to familiarize yourself with the locations of the other geological landmarks in the area i.e. the Felsenmeer and Devil's Kettle. It is not uncommon for a group of lost hikers to stumble upon the Penokean.*Note: route grades may be in need of adjustment

Description

Location

Routes in The Penokean Wall