One of the better crack climbs at Atlantis and will hopefully clean up more. This route is listed as two pitches (5.10c) in Marty’s guide although that doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. If I were to climb to the top I’d do it all in one pitch. The traditional pitch two is short and really easy.The route starts with some slippery slab moves into the sweet hand crack above. Above that lies a short flakey off-width that felt like the crux to me although this is no 5.10c off-width. Above is a broken roof with big holds. After you pull the roof either build a gear belay or continue up a couple of easy moves and traverse right and use the bolted anchor on top of Public Hanging.

Unknown Crack

Schizophrenic Boulevard

Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me

Public Hanging

Unknown Dihedral

Unnamed Crack Near Feast & Famine

All Kings Men

Trinity is My Name

Public Hanging Direct

Neptune

Fluid Dynamics

Feast and Famine

Armed and Dangerous

Cracka ass Cracka

Fish Head

Impending Doom

Unknown crack to right of Armed and Dangerous.

Remote Hug Express!

Phantom

Capital Punishment

Flakes of Wrath

Smokin Guns

Start under a small roof and follow crack to the first bolt, then traverse right onto face to the next bolt on thin face, once past the first bolt get over the face and on to big ledge, the next bolt is up and left, climb up to the bolt with good holds, then traverse left to bulge with crack, it is probly a good idea to place a .4 alien here, because if you fall it is going to be an implesent whipper.  Here is some beta, there is a huge, bomber hold over the bulge in the back, once you get that stand on the ledge and clip next bolt, Then climb face past 2 more bolts to chain rappel.

This is a fun climb.  The crux may be the bulge at the third to fourth bolt.  Good holds all the way to the anchors.

A fun route that starts in a corner crack (hence the need for 15' of crack pro) or as a variation could be started on the stem/face to the right (Capital Punishment) which would be in keeping it a pure sport route. Nice climbing thru the initial bolts becoming increasingly more challenging as one nears a bulge in a quasi-stemming dihedral (the crux), thence easier climbing (less challenging then it first appears) to the belay anchors.

Scramble up to a ledge and optionally clip the first bolt of "Impending Doom".  Follow the crack and either step left to hit the anchors of "Impending Doom" or venture further on easier ground.  A small tree makes for a natural anchor should the route be followed to completion. 

  This route lists as a 5.3 in the pocket guide but I would grade it a 5.6.  Also be aware that the rappel off the tree may require two ropes -- it would certainly be close.  I rapped off the tree to the anchors of "Impending Doom".

Climb up the crack in the corner to the left of Feast and Famine.   

  Karabin's book says to to eventually traverse left and up gulley to rappel off Neptune's anchors, but just as well you can traverse slightly right and rappel off of Feast and Famine's anchors.

Make sure that you get a good clip for the third bolt or else the whipper is no fun at all.  The crux is obvious just by looking at the route.  Honestly i think this is one of the coolest routes here at Atlantis.  Also make sure that you place longer draws above the roof because of the sharp edge.

Bolted start to Public Hanging. Starts 4' to the right of the crack.

A classic.  A bit exciting getting established on the face above the last bolt; fun stuff!  A must do climb. 

  Start on slick, water polished rock located at an apex of the pool area below the dam; look for a short dihedral near the top of the wall.

Start up the apron just right of Phantom. Clip a couple bolts then find your way up the white overhanging scoop. Continue up the crimpy and pocketed headwall.

This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof. 

  Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock.  Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right;  scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.

Fun route with nice positioning. Shares the same start with Capital Punishment (hence a physical, slick chimney/face up to the initial bolt- best stick-clipped). Climbs overhanging easy face while side clipping bolts from the right. Crux is on bolt 5 and consists of a traverse to the left (and a shake-out jug) and then powering thru a crack (with a pinch hold) that allows bumps to hueco buckets for the left hand.

After a hands roof crack pulling the lip is the Crux. Worth all you got!!

Start on top of the dam and make your way left and up to the first bolt on the slab (stick clip recommended). Clip another bolt and the short crux begins. Figure out the strong, tricky sequence and find a hidden jug just above the fourth bolt. Pull over the overhang following the crack to the anchors.

Climb the slick face just right of Neptune.  You can clip the first bolt of Neptune, but it will likely give you a bit of drag towards the top.  The climbing is easy to the first bolt proper anyways.  Pull through a few bulges on pockets, crimps, and a few jugs.

Blocky, wide crack with lots of great feet and stemming. Pro is a bit trixy in spots but adequate. Overall enjoyable and a nice warm up. I used anchor for armed and dangerous but it should be extended and also an extended directional placed in crack if toproping.

Sit start. Reach right up for the jug... if you can. No hug = no send. 

  This problem was established in appreciation of the incredible outpouring of support received when our dear friend suffered a serious injury while climbing.

An airy and fun route which features bolted laybacking to start (12a). The whitish overhanging face above (the 2nd crux) can be done by side-clipping the bolt from the left and doing a major "hook around" left as well (this would be the easiest way). We elected to stay but a foot or two left of the bolt and thought it to be 12b.   Toproping the bolt straddling version later felt a good deal harder.

A route that features non-challenging moves for the most part- except the crux. It shares the start with Armed and Dangerous so consequently a stick-clip should be considered. The crux has some very bouldery moves far harder then it's origional rating of 12a (felt 12c), not made any easier by a critical pocket whose floor is gone making the hangerless bolt that protects it a moot point (we placed a temporary add-a-bolt sling to protect this section).

Getting over the rooof is the crux, This climb is a must do for an 11 climber, fun with big moves on big holds.  Short and can be pumpy

Climb the obvious roof to the left of the waterfall/dam thing. It goes up big positive holds to a crack. Pulling the roof is the hardest part, but once you get the big pocket it's over.

The north side routes are on the left side of the canyon when first entering after coming down the approach trail. 

  The north side routes tend to be steeper and more difficult than the south side. Many good, steep 5.10 and up exist here.  Mostly good rock on the routes, but don't forget it is still Queen Creek and the occasional bit of loose stuff is standard. 

This is the wall you rappel down if you choose to enter the area that way. You'll rappel right over  Neptune , which is a very popular 5.10. Please be careful tossing ropes if the parking lot already has cars in it and climbers are likely down there. Consider walking down instead as a courtesy to anyone unseen, who may be leading it below.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Atlantis North Side