The roof crack you've spied from the wash looks a lot harder than it actually is. However, it's a fun climb and offers good jamming, good protection and a good view of Gateway Canyon.  

  Start up the chockstone filled chimney until you reach the finger crack. Place some pro and pull a few chimney moves until you're right under the intimidating roof. From here the feet disappear but the jams and finger locks are solid. Move out towards the lip of the roof and pull out from under it.  

  A belay can be built on medium cams and one 4" piece. To descend scramble up easy terrain and continue to the west where you will find a gully that can easily be scrambled back and around to the base of the route.

Horizontal Departure

Harsh Width

To the left of Horizontal Departure is a very clean cut, vertical, off-width crack. Climb the off-width to a good belay stance beneath a chimney. A very good climb that requires actual off-width technique.  

  Descent: Climb out of the chimney above the route, scramble down and west through some large talus. A gully leads out to the left (back east) where you can go under a large chockstone and do some 4th class downclimbing and then back to the base of the route.

Gateway Crag is situated partway up along the north side of Kraft Mountain. A traditional crag oriented around crack climbing. This crag is a good location if you're looking to try some harder cracks and/or not go sport climbing at Sunny & Steep. For a good day out do the 3 popular routes at Winter Heat and then cut over to this crag and do these two. The crag faces northeast and doesn't get much sun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gateway Crag