Follow the line of four bolts, up and rightward, to the large sloping ledge. Belay at the spruce tree.   It is very tempting to head left after the third bolt, escaping to the crack of Full Moon Fever. This variation eases the difficulties to 5.8.   While this is a sport route, it's a spicy one; falls are safe but may be longer than one prefers.   Probably the most popular pure sport route on Crane. I've watched a dozen or so falls from this route.

Cat Scratch Fever

Hydrophobia

Craterface

Full Moon Fever

Little Fever

El Muerte Rojo

Short Person's Disease

Cabin Fever

Chilblain

Climb up the pockmarked face, passing three bolts to reach the short crack and then an obscure ledge (V1). Continue up the short face above using the right-slanting crack.   Var 1 5.8 G: Continue diagonally up left, passing one more bolt (the top bolt of El Muerte Rojo).

Climb up to the crack on good holds, then follow the crack to its end. Step right and up (crux) to reach another crack; use this and the face on the left to reach a good ledge.   An oak tree lies right at the top; making a convenient TR anchor, but you may want directionals, as the cracks do slant away from it.

Climb up to a stance just left of the spruce tree, then climb up the unprotected slab above the tree, trending slightly right, passing one protectable crack along the way.   Cleaned up and with fixed gear, this would be a good "beginner's" intro to the balancy dimple-hopping requisite to Measles Wall climbing.

Thoroughly scrubbed, this might be a good first trad lead. In its present condition, it cannot be recommended.   Scramble up the boulders to a stance left of the spruce tree. Follow a left-rising ramp 15' to its junction with a right-rising crack. Take the crack up to the top.

Make an awkward heave/mantle onto the sloping ledge of the megaflake, and an even more awkward rising traverse along it to its upper right end. Increasingly awkward moves escape the confines of the megaflake, out right onto a short, steep, and bottomless face. Follow the vertical crack to freedom on the easy slab above left, to the top.   If there's one Crane route not to be missed - if you are three feet tall - this is it. Otherwise, it's a miserable cramped trial.

Some interesting moves, lots of variety, and some harder variations. Cleaned up, this would be a 1 star route.   Climb the crack to a thin flake on the right, then move out right using the flake to gain the scruffy tree ledge. Walk left 4m to a short chimney formed by the overhanging face on the right and a detached large boulder on the left. Climb strenuously up the chimney (cam slot in the boulder affords pro), hop up on the slab to the right of the chimney's top, then scramble left into the large dihedral. Climb up the wide crack, using chockstones for pro, then step out right onto the arete for the last few moves.

One of the easiest pure "toe-tappers" of the Measles Walls, this route would be recommended if it were cleaned and bolted.   As it is, it's a somewhat terrifying climb up dirty divotted rock.

Shaded, short crag; the highest of this collection of small cliffs and the farthest from the trailhead.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Measles Wall