This route is a continuation of the unnamed 10a at the far right end of Third Buttress. If you are really jonesing for some trad run up this one, poor rock quality on the route and not bomber placements. The first ascent was done without gear, he brought his nuts but unfortunately forgot his rack.

Bring Your Nuts

Beer Pressure

Supermoon

Vanished

Forrest Dump

La Senora No Contenta

Tsunami Bob

Happy Sexgiving

Shake And Not Stir

Pondel

Mr. Cute

Starry

Kosmology

Minimax

Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg

Moselstraße

Meathead

Strip Tease

Unnamed (Dragon's Tail)

King Lichen Me

Coffindaffer's Dream

Dragon's Tooth

The Wanderer

Flying Turkey

Alleluja

Antofil

The Prow

Baron Von Saurkrauten

Bittersweet

Italiano Vero

Unnamed

First, Last, and Always

Skull In Hole

Thrill in the Ville

Dean's Route

Telexpress

Lieutenant Tomek

Joli Goes to Zermont

Dear Hunter

Half Mast

Rrugë Të Pista

The crux on this comes in the first two bolts with big moves. However it can be circumnavigated by busting out right on better holds. Bad rock up high.

Climb some flaky rock past the 1st bolt to the 2nd (long sling). Clip the chain on the 3rd bolt from a good jug and boulder out the corner to a good horn. Avoid an X-block (good jug just to the right) and move up past a glued-on block, which makes for an amazing jug, to crimps and a dead-point to the good rail above. Traverse left 3 feet to a stance on the corner. Continue straight up the right line of bolts (do not switch the left bolt line as the guidebook directs) to high anchors.

The upper face has 3 more tricky sections with high-heel hooks, a mantle, and possibly a dead-point. Each section climbs fine, but seems perplexing as you encounter it. Luckily there are good stances in between the tricky sections.

Great adventure climbing! Possibly a thicket of spider webs!

Starts out on easy terrain but the last 3 bolts really lay it on you. From the ledge find the small crimp and traverse left on nothing feet and then head directly up with small sloping crimps to jugs. Hard for the grade.

Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof.   Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux).  Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof.  From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors. Very sustained.

This less traveled route is that way for a reason. It can be harder than 5.10 or easier, depending on where you go. There is a good bit of bad rock at the top of this thing.

Start by climbing Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg; a couple long pulls off the ground to a rest stance, and the finish up the arete and left face.

Clip the anchor of this line and continue of the face above. After few bolts of easier climbing, move right and climb a runout vertical weakness to the high ledge. The crux comes at the final 2 bolts. Commit to a few small holds just right of the bolt line and move up to a jug, reach far left and make a difficult cross moving left to finish on jugs.

Good, sustained, and fairly steep climbing.

The moves from the ground up to the second bolt are interesting and the route overhangs a bit. Then the bolts continue straight up the face, but most of the chalk and the holds seem to go far left and then angle back towards the middle again, making the clipping difficult and awkward. After the last bolt the route seems to go straight up the face to a prominent (drilled?) 3 or 4 finger pocket. The final move, a mantle onto the very large ledge at the top feels exposed and is about 10 feet above the last bolt. There's nothing to hold onto on the ledge so it's a pure mantle. Chalk indicates that some people bypass the mantle and just go far left into a broken corner to gain the ledge. Rings on hangers for an anchor at the back of the ledge.

This route justifies the long hike to the third buttress.  It climbs a sweeping parabolic wall with no discontinuities.  The movement is athletic and thuggish.

Begin by climbing through two bolts of slopey jugs, being sure to use your heels effectively to make the steep angle more manageable.  The third bolt is a bit tricky to clip, so it would be to your advantage to pre-hang the draw with a really long stick.  The crux is around the third bolt and can be done a couple different ways.  Post crux the angle gets more vertical and the climbing eases.  One last surprising sequence is encountered a bolt below the chains.  Use some strange two finger pockets and a couple small edges before manteling out the final ledge.

The rock on this one is a bit suspect in spots, but the movement makes up for what it lacks in rock quality.

follow the juggy stairs up to an awkward traverse move into the crack system. Follow Crack up to the bolt anchors on the big ledge to the right.

Excellent climbing!  After clipping the second bolt traverse right to make a big move over a bulge, then move back left.  Get a good rest and get ready to savor the overhanging face above.

An area classic. This line is characterized by ever steepening juggy climbing with a bouldery crux or two up high and a climatic finish. The first 2/3rds of this climb aren't any harder than 5.9 and there is a full no hands lay down rest before the crux.

Mostly shelf scrambling, this route offers very little "real" climbing. Start with a difficult move through a flaring jam and roof, and barely tolerate about 60 feet of easy 4th and 5th class climbing through ledge after ledge. Finally, you will be rewarded with about 25 feet of bolted handcrack. Why this was led by yours truly, or even equipped for that matter, is beyond me.

And alternative finish branches left from the end of the first crack system. It allegedly goes at 11+.

Easier climbing leads past a chossy flake right of the 2nd bolt to a stance at the 3rd bolt. At the 4th bolt, start the crux sequence with an angled undercling and do several long reaches for good crimps to a jug just past the 5th bolt.

The crux sequence is great! It would deserve more stars if it were longer. Consider putting a sling on the anchor and continuing up La Senora No Contenta.

Start just left of the hueco, or a few feet further left sharing holds with Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg. Find a thin and reachy sequence to the right of bolts 2 and three, then traverse back left to surmount the roof. Move up easier rock to the final headwall. Find some tricky and hidden holds throughout this section, staying to the right after the last bolt to the anchors.

The guidebook gives this 5.10b. Most people I have talked to think its a bit harder than that, 5.10d?

Start out with a few thin moves.  Continue up with increasingly more positive holds as the route begins to get steeper.   As you approach the large roof above, head right to reach it.  Reach up high and traverse back left on great holds to reach the shuts.  The crux is likely clipping the shuts!   Amazing roof moves!

Strip Tease starts with easy climbing to a high first bolt.  You could easily protect this (and the entire route) with gear.  Climb out through the overhanging flake, clipping a couple more bolts, before figuring out how to get to the headwall above.  You'll have one more chance to blow it on the move to the anchors.

Climb up steep rock in a right facing corner. Move left to a heel hook / mantel move off a loose block to a sit down rest on a ledge. Continue past a few more closely-spaced bolts to a ledge. Find a slippery path up sloping holds directly up to the next bolt, or traverse left to more positive holds near Dragon's Tooth, climb up (risking a swinging slab fall) and back right to the bolt line. Continue up and right past two more bolts and prepare from some final crimps directly right of the last bolt and then straight up to the anchors (avoid loose flakes straight above the last bolt, and a loose flake below and right of the anchor).

Fun climbing with the exception of the loose rock and middle slab section.

The start is dynamic. About half way up there's a nice right-facing flake allowing a few side-pull moves. Lots of rests throughout.

This thing is so good! It has a lot of different types of climbing packed into one. Start up through a collection of horizontals with a long move up to the base of the roof. From here use your heels and make a reach to perfectly sculpted holds. Get a no hands rest and then finish up through the corner system using any type of hold you can imagine. A perfect warm-up for the other routes in the area. There are numerous rests on this route, so it may seem pretty easy for the grade.

This is a very fun climb with plenty of stances and fun moves. Apparently a good candidate for an onsight attempt (don't read below!).

Climb vertical rock with good moves to a good undercling stance at the third bolt. Figure out how to commit to the slab above, being careful not to pull to hard on the hollow flakes below the overlap. Continue up the slab to another undercling stance at the base of a blank section, at bolt 5.

Seek the dragon's tooth, a sharp pocket, and some side pulls to reach a good rail up high. Pull the next easy roof and find the best stance (layback to the right) to clip the 7th bolt. Work your feet up very high, tense your body, and reach for the perfect glued flake in the high roof. Keep the pump together over the final roof and you are at the anchors.

A mediocre climb with the bolts in all of the wrong places. Has some unique moves with a few no hand rests and has the potential to be much harder than it should be. This is not the route for someone breaking into 5.10.

Pull the small roof up to a juggy section. Then  follow the hand crack to the big ledge.

Start with a big move off the ground (made easier by cheater stones, if you so choose), up the easy face to a ledge. Continue up a flake and the face to where it starts to get steep, then make another big move to a not so obvious jug. Finally, climb the short layback to a face then, switching gears, crimp and smear to the chains.

Tough start, reachy finish to a ledge before chains.

Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab.  Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block.  As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins.  At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang.  When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured.  Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here).  Now the hard stuff begins.  Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion.  Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang.  Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts.  The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from.  This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section.   60M rope required.

Climbs highly featured steep rock to a series of moves between horizontals.  The route wanders a bit relative to the bolt line once you are established on the horizontals and is a bit committing. Be aware of some loose and friable stone.

Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts.  Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible.  Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.

Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers.  Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno.  Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux.  The second crux involves some small crimps and a long lock off at near vertical angle.  Climb through several more bolts of bizarre rock, some of which is purple.  One more hard move awaits you as you clear the final roof.  It is kind of bewildering hanging the draw at the roof so stay focused.  Fifteen more feet of steep jug hauling takes you to the top of the cliff.  Lots of variety on this one.  Surprisingly rope drag is not an issue even if you use all short draws.

This is the right of the "Lieutenant Tomek".

A long and adventurous route leads past several interesting sequences separated by good rests.

Be careful climbing past some flaky rock at the 1st bolt. Continue up an easier slab and crack section to a stance at the 4th bolt. Move up, clip the 5th bolt, and traverse left to a nice layback move up to a ledge with the 6th bolt. Rest up here for the crux. Reach up high to crimps and deadpoint to a good ledge. Clip the 7th bolt and negotiate the angled flake and a crimp to reach the ledge above the 8th bolt. Find the nice holds on the ledge and move up to a rest at the 9th bolt. Some easier, but pumpy climbing leads past the last bolt to a few crimps just before the anchor-clipping jug.

Start at the hueco with the skull and climb straight up on the right side of the arete, aiming for the nice rest and stance on the arete at the 3rd bolt.  From here, using the holds on the lip of the overhang, traverse out right and eventually dyno to a great jug (crux).  After clipping the 5th bolt, 1 more strenuous move puts you at a nice stance.  From here, head to the arete and up to the shuts on easier terrain.  This climb has really nice movement.  It's mostly easier climbing except for a few moves in the middle.

Climb up and into a small cave, and continue up the brown face past some crumbly rock. Traverse left past the 4th bolt to the 5th bolt. Climb up and slightly right past some dirty rock to a high ledge at the anchors. There is a runout on jugs past the last bolt that leads to a mantel just before the anchors.

Start on the first bolt of Beer Pressure (a long sling is helpful). Once in the hueco above, walk carefully to the left side of the hueco (and do not fall here) to clip the second bolt. Continue left past 2 more bolts to a rest stance in a corner before the crux. The 4th bolt has a quicklink on it to keep the gate of your carabiner off the edge of the little roof.

Figure out the crux sequence and climb up to another stance at the fifth bolt. A couple more tricky, but fun sequences separated by rests lead to a redpoint lunge to a good hold up high.

Similar in character to Beer Pressure, with one slightly harder sequence. My understanding is that the guidebook has Beer Pressure and Dean's Route reversed (BP is on climber's right, and DR on the left), and incorrectly shows a traverse from the right hand route to the left hand route at the seventh bolt (these routes only share the first bolt).

Thin crimps for a bouldery start and a relatively easy middle section to a slightly overhanging finish. The crux and route are both short-lived.

The climb offers a variety of holds and movements. It starts off rather straight forward until the  the middle part of the route, after a move through a thin face to a make a clip with not so good stance and continue up to the left.

Fun climbing up plates and horizontal flakes reminiscent of starry with a cruxy move through a 5 foot roof. More decent climbing leads to what will be an extremely frustrating move for short or chesty climbers  - a reachy pull through a sharp roof.

The final stretch of climbing is especially aggravating, due to the fact that the equipper completely ignored the natural weakness/line that skirts just right of the roof.

Start with big jump to gain hueco/roof at the first bolt. Continue up the blunt arete to the ledge.

Starts just left of  vanished on a block. You'll know you are there when you see the start traverse left into a small tree. Make sure to stick clip the highest bolt you can as the crux is getting to the second bolt with a red point crux up high getting into the roof. Don't worry though, the roof is way, way easier than it looks. Heel hooks in the right places make it feel like 5.8.

Starts on a high jug a few feet left of Minimax.  Pull through the slopey boulder problem to the 2nd bolt, then continue on through very easy climbing to the anchors.  Note: This route shares anchors with Minimax.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4. Third Buttress