To the right of Fun and Grins.  Climb the overhanging crack above the cave entrance to Second Taunt.

Lowe Overhang

Clairollelogram

Runout Chimney

The Wick

Fun and Grins

Tunnel Vision

Goomba Crack

Second Taunt

La Realidad

P.G. 13

The Flame

Joy Crack

Stem Corner

Winter of Discontent

Low crux on good jams leads to rotten, chossy rock but easy climbing. Very fun route, but be prepared for the head game at the top. 5.9 might be soft, but it is hard to say, as the crux is definitely concentrated in the beginning, and eases up considerably afterwards.

An overhanging offwidth corner crack starting at butterfly stacks and opening past chicken wings. Starts by stepping up off of the deck on the block low on the ground on a stack. Be careful at the beginning, as there's a detached flake behind you that you swing into if you blow the opening moves (not bad, but wear a helmet just in case). Continue up the crack on tenuous stacks past a sloper ledge into and past a squeeze to gain a top out via a horizontal finger crack for a single move. The anchor is finicky but safe, built off of the busted up kitty litter and boulders directly above the line. You can hike off this line when you clean the anchor. If you know where the uphill entrance is to this cave, it's a 30 second walk off; if not, you can hike back around to the main cave entrance.GEAR SPOILERS BELOWThe climb: 4, 4, 5, 5, 6The anchor (weird): .3, .4, 3, 4, 2

Start in the Chimney work your up way up past this section, then transfer out onto the ledge system. Once you pass the ledges, you will be left to a large runout of simple slab. Be sure you are ready to commit to the slab. As you climb the top rope drag becomes a problem as well as communication. Recommend radios if you have em. ***Didn't find any information on this route in the guidebook or online, so if anyone knows the name of the route, or the FA just contact me to update it.***

Start in the corner around to the right from The Flame.  Clip the bolt and then reach around the corner to make it onto the face.  Clip nails up higher.  Go to two top anchors.

This is a crack protected squeeze chimney. You'll be able to work the crack a little, but the route will very soon shrink down to a proper squeeze chimney and force you out right. 5.8, but it's a squeeze chimney, so...

In the crack to the right of The Wick dihedral (not the off-width crack).  This route's hardest move is getting off the ground. Finish off the top.  Use medium to wide gear.

Through the cave to the right of Fun and Grins you will travel through the three rooms.  In the third room, you will find this 2 pitch route beginning.  If you look up, you can see the sky.  That tells you where the route begins

Just to the left of PG 13, climb thin face holds and the arete to the top.  The bottom half is very thin.  The crux is getting through these bottom couple of bolts. The route then becomes more secure towards the top.  Start on top of the sharp flake under the route.

P.G. 13 climbs the right line of bolts up the steep face to the left of Eat.  It is separated from Eat by a wide crack.  Climb the steep face past four bolts pinching crystals and smearing on the face, generally following a small ridge or bulge that winds its way to the top.  The climbing is sustained with difficult moves near each bolt.

To the right of the cave this route starts well of the ground.  Jump to get started. Have a good spotter for the beginning of the route.  Otherwise you will fall backwards and possibly roll all the way down the slope and into the boulder below it!  After somehow obtaining the mantel, follow the bolt-line on delicate face moves to the top.

Excellent chimney fun. Set gear to protect, but you won't use the crack much for climbing. Start is relatively easy but gets harder quickly due to poor feet, then eases higher up. Look for several small ledges on the face wall on the lower half and one large one on the back wall in the upper half. The crack reduces to a tight squeeze, but you should be able to fit all the way through and top out or get comfortable and set a belay anchor.

 Take a headlamp, especially for the lower section.

 To set a top rope before climbing, from the main entry tunnel go all the way back. There are two exits, one on the right and one straight back. The back exit is narrow, but the easiest. Upon exiting work your way right, back up and over. Pass a triangular hole, climb a couple of boulders, and look down onto the long narrow slot that is the exit for Tunnel Vision and Joy Crack.

Eat is a fun crack climb that ascends the near vertical face just to the right of P.G. 13, and left of the corner formed by the intersection of the two walls.  Look for a large tree at the top of the route.  There are a series of three cracks that lace the face - a center crack, one to the right near the bottom, and one to the left near the top.  The climb starts off as a good hand crack and then transitions to a couple of layback moves.  Above the layback, jam more cracks to the top.  The crux is getting out of the final cracks and onto the ledge with the anchors.  Continuously steep climbing (looks easier from the ground) and great jams makes this a fun route.

Climb the corner right of the Wick. Many techniques are available, stemming, chimney, or crack for the beginning. 

  The beginning is the crux.  I recommend a helmet in case you climb up into the rock roof.

This route is found on large boulder to the right of Goomba Wall.  It starts on the downhill corner around to the right. It starts on the thin flakes and cracks until they run out.  It finishes by going up the steep face on small crystals.

The Southeast Face is the largest climbing area on Buzzard's Roost and home to the classic routes Eat and PG-13.  The routes climb two opposing walls that form a large "dihedral."  Three of the routes actually start back inside "caves" formed by the large boulders and make for good summer destinations when the rock everywhere else is too hot to touch.  The Southeast Face also gets afternoon shade.  The tops of the climbs can be reached by walking around the left side of PG-13 and scrambling up the slabs to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southeast Face