Start up on the ledge just right of the corner that splits the Cove to a big roof. Pull through the roof on crimps to jugs to a lower off anchor shared with Redbeard’s Treasure

Aye for an Aye

Mount Crushmore

Redbeard's Treasure

Mount Crushmore - Presidential Finish

Declaration of Crushdependence

Crushdependence

Senderista

Climb the first two pitches of Mount Crushmore. Link the extension as one long pitch to avoid an uncomfortable belay. Make your way onto the headwall with a generous horizontal crack leading to powerful and crimpy moves above. 3 bolts to lower off anchor. 20 feet.

 A 60 meter rap will get you from the top of the extension to the P.1 ledge and another will get you to the base of the route.

P.1 – (5.8) Scramble up past a high first bolt on the face left of the corner that splits the Cove. Make a few punchy moves below the roof and traverse your way out along a left trending crack to exit the Cove. Pull crimps up and right on the slab above to gain a comfortable ledge. 11 bolts to two bolt anchor. 100 feet

 P.2 – (5.10c) Step right from the belay and stem off a ramp to clip a high first bolt. The face climbing gets increasingly harder as the holds get increasingly smaller. 10 bolts to a lower off anchor below the headwall. 80 feet

 You can lower off here or venture onward to the Presidential Finish (5.12a). Link the extension as one long pitch to avoid an uncomfortable belay. Make your way onto the headwall with a generous horizontal crack leading to powerful and crimpy moves above. 3 bolts to lower off anchor. 20 feet.

 A 60 meter rap will get you from the top of the extension to the P.1 ledge and another will get you to the base of the route.

Climb up the face right of Aye for an Eye to roof. After pulling the roof, easier terrain leads to a lower off anchor shared with Aye for an Aye

"Declaration fo Crushdependence" 5.11a/b  3 stars, 40', 6 glue-in bolts to flat stance and glue-in chain anchor. Extension: > From the top of Crushdependence's 5.8 section, step right and into a scoop with sloping holds. From here continue your way up into the increasingly overhung terrain above. Gain a good rail/jug to clip the highest visible bolt and blast up through the crux to pull over on a left hand gaston and right hand undercling, clip another bolt and step left to a flat stance and anchor. It's beneficial to reach over and switch the last bolt to a lone carabiner to prevent any swing from the follower, which would position them in free hanging air.

An alternate 2nd pitch, at an easier grade, to the original second pitch of Mount Crushmore. From atop P1 break left. Punch up on good feet and gain a sidepull-crimp to clip the first glue-in bolt. Continue to trend just left to reach the second and then start heading up following the line of bolts. About half way up gain a good jug and pull up and lean in to gain a good stance and rest before sorting the moves out at the top. Ends at a glue-in mussy hook/lower-off anchor on a small ledge.*Originally lead with only 6 bolts, I went back and added a 7th to keep the spice factor down, above the original 2nd bolt, the following morning. 

P. 1 – (5.8+) Locate the rightmost bolt line in the Cove. Climb the steep and crimpy start (crux) to pull over on to the face. Continue on a sea of crimps and high steps that keep going and going until you reach the anchor at a pine tree. 14 bolts to a ring bolt anchor. 120 feet.

 **It is possible to split this pitch into two at the anchor for Aye for an Aye/Redbeard’s Treasure (which is a smart idea if your follower is climbing close to their limit to reduce the chance of a rope stretching fall at the crux start)

 P. 2 – (5.10b) A truly unique and incredible pitch! Climb straight off the ledge up the face as the crimps continue and the angle gets steeper. Clip a bolt at the lip before an airy mantel into the alcove (crux). Catch your breath and enjoy the setting before one last exposed traverse move up and left onto the headwall to a comfy belay ledge. 10 bolts to a ring bolt anchor. 100 feet

 **There is a death block clearly marked with an “X” to the right of the fourth bolt. It is outside the path of travel, but be careful not to pull on it or it will be a very bad day for your belayer. I need to clear the base of the Dome and go trundle it when the coast is clear.

 Descent - with a 60m rope you can descend in 3 rappels using the Aye for an Aye/Redbeard’s Treasure anchor. With a 70m rope you can BARELY get to the base with some easy down climbing. Don’t rap off the end of your rope!

The Pirate's Cove, or The Cove is a small area on the way up to the Neighborhood Ledge with several short climbs as well as Mount Crushmore and Senderista, which climb the center face of the Dome all the way up to the headwall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6. The Pirate's Cove