Start deep in the bottom flaring off width chimney with hands matched on a large ledge and feet place on two small edges below.  Stand up on the feet and jam/arm bar/stem into the narrowing top of the crack.  Lean back into a committing quarter hand (thumb) mantle as you squirm sideways up the chimney using toe/heel hooks to fight your way up into an opposing flake and eventually a solid fist jam.  Feet go even with or over your head as you jam the narrowing top of the chimney and fight hard for the sloper on the face where the crack flares toward the approach trail.  Once established on the face continue scary crimps and face moves into the flaring crack at the top of the boulder.  Find your feet and pull over the steep and overhanging face to gain a solid flake as the boulder slabs out, topping out on the rock for the exciting finish!

Hot Wax

Cougar Scramble

Frosted Cornflake

Braille Rail

Satanic Solution

Dripping Sun

Walk to the right up into the first cave.  Route starts with a small left crimp and a right hand ledge in the cave on opposing sides of the roof.  Feet start with a toe hook in between the roof and the main boulder.  Negotiate matching hands on the horn and gain the high foot.  Big moves onto a solid rail rest as a high heel hook propels the last thuggy moves before pulling a big flake to top out.

 Big ledge with a large flake to pull on leads to a tall step of "stairs" leading nearly straight up and finishing over the cave.  Easiest route on the boulder making it a common warm up.

Lie back/slab problem still being cleaned up but might go anywhere in the V2-4 grade.  Slab is obvious before entering the second cave.  Route sits on upper boulder.  The "Cornflake" is the obvious feature on the slab before entering the cave and appears to be "Frosted".

Start with your hands and feet on opposite side of the arete.  Side pull on the right and side crimp the edge of a sharp flake to the left.  A few wide slopers give hand moves leading to a possible heel hook (or not) that aids in gaining the high left hand followed by a match with the right.  Next is a spicy match in the "choss trough" followed by the bump to the savior of a blind crimp rail that you cant see until your in it!  Easy moves top out on the lower boulder.

Lie down to start on the face of the boulder.  Left hand starts around the left side of the arete on the low percentage pinch/crimp.  Right hand starts in cracked holds on right side of Arete.  Feet start in triangular crack/tooth that leads into the dirt.  Negotiate a tricky start to pull off the ground and progress left hand into a razor crimp before thugging into the solid ledge above. From here fire right to the flake and stand up on the ledge using a greasy sloper.  Move straight up topping out on the first boulder.  Careful not to go right or left as a move off route is a fireable offense!  The start is the crux, and the rest....it's history.

Boulder sits at around 5800 ft elevation. Takes a hike of just under two miles with nearly 1500 ft of elevation gain to access a few fun bouldery routes on a 30 foot pile of rocks with two main boulder and a couple of caves.

 Inside the first cave is a rubbermaid containing some heavy duty wire brushes.  Feel free to help brush away the broccoli feast but please leave brushes in cave when finished and as always LNT.

 Please stay on trail and help preserve this fragile high desert ecosystem.  Thanks!

Description

Location

Routes in Cougar Rock Boulders