Right of Stupid Cat and left of Fontare De Roja. Traverse left from the boulder on good pockets with smeary feet, then climb the crack to the shared alcove, and finally up the face to an anchor (2 bolts).

Coco Puffs

Adventure Guppies

Stupid Cat

Snagglepuss

Hidden Meaning

Ruta de Roja

Moon Where the Wind Blows

Cocopuss

Fontanar de Rojo

Crux is right by the 2nd and 3rd clips on the super thin section.  This route is super well protected but not near as good as Cocopuss.

A really enjoyable new line somehow overlooked for many years til now. Follows an engaging line of features up perfect varnish with several reachy moves to a mellow, featured slab finish. A pretty classic set of moves in my book. This route was bolted ground up without hooks with no toprope previewing and no chalk. One of our party was putting in his first bolts on lead up there on a 5.11-not too shabby! We spotted this line while replacing the outdated open shuts on the neighboring routes with mussies and stainless bolts courtesy the ASCA.

This is simply a top rope inside the obvious chimney climbing on the west face.  You can use the Cocopuss anchors to set up your top rope.

This route has a couple good moves but is lacking a distinct crux.  Pro is somewhat mossy so be careful.  This route is worth doing once while in the area getting the other routes ticked off.  NOTICE:  This route and Fontanar's descriptions and length in the Brock/McMillan guidebood are off; routes are at around 180 feet in length!

This is an EXCELLENT sport route on the left side of the Coco Crag about 3 feet right of the obvious chimney.  Varied movements; great protection; and climbing that is much steeper than it appears from the ground; as good as any sport route in Red Rocks at the grade IMHO.  Brock guidebook says 10b but it might be 10a'ish??

This route follows different crack systems to the top of the cliff.  Ascend the right facing flake to the top of the pillar; then follow the obvious varnished corner (crux??) to its top; and then follow the left angling wide flare to the top (some thin gear).  Crux would be the obvious varnished corner; but it looks more intimidating then it is; the jams are SUPER secure.  The crux is great (2 Stars) while the rest would only be 1 star.

This generally shady area has two EXCELLENT sport routes and two (o.k.) Trad routes.  Worth a visit to climb them all in a day!!  The route lenghts in the Brock/McMillan book for the two trad routes are VERY incorrect and will require walk offs that are pretty easy.

Description

Protection

Routes in Coco Crag