Follow directions for the East ridge of south Franklin Mountain, but stay to the true ridgeline without veering like the original first ascent. Rock is surprisingly good, but protection can be hard to find at times.

 About 2/3 of the way up the ridgeline will be the crux; a small roof with a tension move and high step to climbers left. Protection is fairly poor here.

 Ascend to the top and descend to Ron Coleman trailhead off of Transmountain Highway.

 

East Ridge Direct (Variation)

East Ridge

Once you've reached the base of the rock on the east ridge, use your route finding skills, and adventure climb to the top. The lower areas we checked out we're pretty loose, so we hiked north and climbed 2 or 3 short pitches ending in a brushy bowl below the east face (there are several moist, moss-filled caves people have clearly camped in over the years). From the caves area, we traversed left/south to gain the east ridge again. This is where the best climbing starts. It's fairly easy, but quite exposed at times. Many will not need a rope, but less experienced climbers will appreciate the security of a belay from above.

There are well-established trails approaching from the north and south (eg. Ron Coleman Trail). The East Ridge provides some surprisingly solid limestone with lots of 4th class or easy 5th class climbing. The approach is through desert mountainous terrain with plenty of the expected foliage --so be prepared for cross country movement through sometimes steep, cactus, ocotillo and "Spanish Dagger"-covered hillsides. Best avoided during hot periods. Allow 2+ hours for the approach.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Franklin Mountain