The guidebook gives this one an "R" rating, but I think it would be a reasonable lead if you are a 5.10 leader.  Follow the crack system just right of the bolts on

Garden Of Eden

.  The lower section protects well, but you will rely on a single piece to protect a groundfall or a big whipper.  The gear near the top is tricky and sparse. There is a marginal cam around a purple C3 that protects the moves to the anchors.

West of Eden

Forbidden Fruit

East of Eden

Fish & Whistle

Tree of Knowledge

Garden Of Eden

Start off with bolt-protected fun and varied face-climbing with a distinct crux and finish off with meandering 5.9+ climbing and gear protection. A nice, long, mixed pitch done ground up.

Ballet and burl, Forbidden Fruit has some of the best steep slab climbing in the Poudre followed by a powerful roof. Fancy footwork is the key to the crux.

P1. 5.11: scramble up and left to a ledge with a belay bolt. Climb straight up the steepening face past the somewhat height-dependent crux, then turn the roof (5.11) at its apex utilizing a hidden sidepull under the roof. Move right to an easy arete leading to the anchors.

Sin is a long pitch of great climbing. A 70m rope is required, though you can lower to the

East of Eden

anchors and get down from there with a 60m.

P1. 5.11a. Turn a roof at the first bolt, then face climb to a mantel onto a ledge. At the second bolt above the ledge, move right out of the crack to stay on the best climbing, and continue to the anchors.

This is a favorite 1-pitch route.  It ascends the obvious right facing dihedral directly above the Eden area pullout. Hike a few feet upslope from the pullout to a nice level belay spot.  I would advise the belayer at the base to anchor in since the crux is only a few feet off the deck and a fall could result in both people rolling down slope into their car (or the road) below.

As noted above, the crux is only a little ways off the deck, but high enough to make you think twice about your gear before you pull the moves.  Climb up to an overhang. Place some bomber gear and crank over (5.9).  Then enjoy stemming, jamming, and liebacking the handcrack that lies above (5.8).  Lots of fun!  As you belay your partner up, you can watch folks rubber neck at you as they drive by.

Fish & Whistle climbs the dramatic arete to the left of

East of Eden

. There is some history to this route (see comments below), but on closer inspection it is unclear if the route was ever bolted and chopped.

As it stands now, it is a fully bolt protected line and is one of the best of the grade in the Poudre. The crux comes at the 2nd bolt and continues up the arete with continuous climbing in the 5.10 range. There are some gently committing moves between bolts, but all the bolts are well positioned to protect the harder climbing.

Per

Jim Graham

: "I did the FA onsight in 1985 and placed one bolt on lead, just before the crux."

Sadly, there was a fatality on this route in 2019.  Please exercise caution when clipping the 3rd bolt.

Climb the slab to an engaging mantel at the break.  Continue up the black streak/corner.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Eden Wall