The obvious off-width. Scramble onto a ledge on the right side of the gully right of Fiddler on the Roof.  

  Up the obvious off-width past many spider webs. Cordelette rap station on a slung block climber's right, at the top of Bone Rock Candy Mountain.

Spider Slot

Outward Bound

Rock Doctor

Fiddler on the Roof

Bone Rock Candy Mountain

Jolly Roger

White Birch

The Browl

White Course

All Along the Watch Tower

Eye in the Sky

The Reaper

Directly Right of White Birch, traverse right out to a crack system just left of the arete. Follow this up to a wide finish that's hard to protect. Good climbing with nice exposure.

A good line that has become overgrown without traffic. 

  P1. Climb the left-facing corner until you reach a ledge below the roof. Pull straight through the overhanging crack and up onto a ledge with a gear belay above. 

  P2. Nondescript corner climbing and broken cracks to the top of the cliff. 

  The roof crack can be avoided around the right side by wandering below the roof. Extend pieces to avoid nasty rope drag. This makes the entire climb 5.8.

Begin at Fiddler on the Roof but continue up the handcrack with optional gear to a pair of bolts to a ledge. Tackle the tough boulder problem to stance before a second boulder problem gains a jug and a long easy slab (somewhat runout but a finger-sized cam takes the bite out) to the top of the cliff and a two-bolt anchor.

Note: A 60-meter rope BARELY reaches the ground.

I'm taking over this route description because the original one was a little much (calling it a three pitch climb). This is a one-pitch climb.

 Start in the corner and make your way up to the top of a block, step left and up past a bolt before wandering left to another crack. Climb to a ledge and traverse further left before face climbing to the top. Currently has old tat although a new bolted rap anchor is on top of the route to the right which could be used to descend.

A great moderate climb. Begin just right of the Spider Slot, Climb up the left facing corner to a large ledge. Continue up the face right of the arete through horizontals and cracks to a cordelette rap anchor up and to the right. Enjoyable climbing with good protection. 

  Var. 1) Bone Rock Direct. 

  Instead of beginning on the ledge, begin climbing from the gully up a dirty crack 15ft. right of the scramble onto the ledge, moving left along a foot ledge to meet the original start at the top of the corner.

Begin 20ft. left of Fiddler on the Roof, directly in front of a small maple tree. 

  P.1) 5.6X An easy, but unprotected, slab guards a great second pitch. Boulder up to a groove in the slab, and into a left-leaning ramp. Move over a large block to a 2-bolt anchor on the left end of the large ledge. 45ft.  

  P.2) 5.10b/c G An excellent, steep pitch on big holds. Boulder off the ledge into a corner under the roof. Make an airy traverse left, to an awkward mantle past a small spruce tree (sling short to protect the second, and reduce drag on the corner of the roof). Tip-toe right, across the top of the roof, and up the right side of the tragically short arete, meeting Fiddler on the Roof where it gains a spruce tree belay. 7 bolts. 85ft.  

  Bolted anchor to come. Currently a tough pull off a discolored sling and a single hollow rap ring (ew). In the mean time, bring some webbing.

Hard to find but a fun adventure.

 Climb the initial handcrack in a left-facing corner up to a blocky ledge. Continue up with sparse gear but on solid rock to the top of the cliff. Belay from trees.

Begin at the base of the left-rising ramp with a great low-angle hand crack. Climb the ramp to the top of a large ledge on the left. Belay here or trend up and right in the corner before making your way left up a pleasant ramp with gear off to the right a bit. Top out in the trees or use the new bolted belay out left. (A 60-meter rope barely reaches the ground.)

An great line! One of the best old lines at the cliff.Start up a ramp (left-facing corner) to a stance with a dead tree. Work up a steep handcrack to an overlap and romp through the steep terrain on huge jugs to a mellow 5.7 hand/fist crack to the top. Belay from trees.

Work up the crack to the obvious hole in the rock and traverse 30 feet left around the bulge. Continue up when possible and locate a crack to reach the top of the cliff. Belay in trees.

Begin on the same ledge as White Birch. Climb the glorious, overhanging fist crack for 25ft, and then continue more easily up the moderate and fun chimney to a two-bolt anchor out left.

The West-most section of the cliff with a high concentration of developed routes though difficult to navigate and many have been lost to history. The earliest climbers spent their time here and rust pitons and old tat are standard. Jack, Jill, Outward Bound, Eye-In-The-Sky, and White Birch are just a few of the dozen or so routes in this area and some new stuff is popping up here.

 Check out Tough Schist or the Tough Schist app on Rakkup for more extensive info.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in A. Left End