A Guide to Ragged (1964)

Vanishing Point

Black Orchid

Bombay

Poison and Passion

The Fall Of The House Of Monticello

Bald Face Hornet

The Cage

Easy Rider

Crag Rat

Crisis

Vajolet Corner

Birdman

Trojan Horse

Leftover

Vector

Subline

Cave Route

Slingshot

Faceout

Right Edge

Cygnus X-1

Double Vision

End Run

Cemetary Vault

YMC Route

NCS Route

Sandbag

Visions

Pork Barrel Project

Wet Wall

Knight's Move

Netherlands

Ashtray

Swan Song

Side Entry

Tower Crack

Marlinspike

Out Of Orbit

Skull and Bones

Jam Corner

Hangnail

Sweat Slot

Ragged Edge

Sisu

Ancient Way

Juniper Wall

Main Street

Duck Soup

For Madmen Only

Hot Rocks

Lavaredo Corner

Golden Age

Aid Crack

Hemlock Groove

War Eagle

Terminal Velocity

Chopper flakes

Sunday Bulge

Wiessner Slab

Hurricane Gloria

Wiessner Crack

Bushy Groove

Angle of the Dangle

Double Crux

Carey Corner

North by North West

Broadway

Un Petit Peu

Nux Vomica

Deception

Animal Crack

Cutting Edge

Eternity

Owl Perch

May's Way

Caroline

Green Gutter

Left Edge

Visitor's Reception Center

North End

Kor Crack

Unconquerable Crack

Bombay Direct

Wetwall Wetlock Variation

Obsession

Hangover

Knight's Gambit

Wishbone

This is a nice line with a few different flavors, among them some thin-ish face climbing and an enjoyable finger crack at the top.

Starting on the large ledge in the middle of Carey's Corner, work up the seam and arete to the top using a tricky sequence of moves.

From under the roof at the start of Subline, work right to a corner and then step left to a crack.  At its top (only about 25' up), traverse right to easier ground leading to the top. 

  The start of this pitch has puzzled many a climber.  You can climb straight up to the corner or chimney right.  Once you get established in the corner it's not over yet - the next 20' are pumpy but well protected.

Climb the face between Obsession and Sweat Slot to the top.

Located on the steep overhanging wall just right of Cemetery Value. Starting on the middle of the face, work up to a small left facing corner. From the top head up and left to the arete. Climbing the overhanging arete to the lip and continue up easier terrain to the top.

We're still missing a description for this route so some history from our fellow member Mike Heintz will have to suffice!"Here's a weird bit of Connecticut history for you. Before it was freed, The Cage was an A3 aid climb. As such, it had only 3 ascents before that status changed, including Sam's first. I did the last aid ascent. Back in those days some of us were interested in training for Yosemite's "Big walls", so we practiced aid climbing where we could. It was during the 2nd aid ascent that apparently the leader found the nailing too committing, and so drilled a bolt before doing the last few "Rurp" placements. After completing this 2nd ascent, he then thought better of it, and rappelled down and chopped the offending bolt. Sometime later, this same climber decided the route could go free, but wanted a bolt, right where he had chopped the first one. To his credit, he drilled that 2nd bolt free and on the lead. It just goes to show, sometimes all this bolt stuff is not as cut and dried as some fundamentalists would have you believe. For the record, my aid ascent took place while the 1st bolt was still there, and I did clip it and was grateful it was there. I guess Sam did the only aid ascent." -Courtesy of Mike Heintz

 

Starting in a crack 10ft left of a ledge system, climb upwards past several ledges to a large flake. From the flake climb over the overhang and continue past two small roofs to the top.

On the face to the right of Carey's Crack climb up and right and over the roof below and to the right of Cygnus X-1. Climb along Ragged Edge to a horizontal and traverse out right to Vanishing point. Finish on the face just left of Vanishing Point.

The face between Unconquerable and Subline. A fun face climb with some tough moves for the 5.11 climber.IMO this line is a bit squeezed in between Asthray and Subline. It uses holds on both climbs.

On the left side of the North End is an interesting arete formed by the shear overhanging North end and the chucky eastern face that parallels the north end's trail to the top. Climb up this arete to a horizontal and then finish past a spike in the rock.

Starting the same as Easy Rider, follow ledges up to the middle of the large roof. At the roof step right and work up the cemetery vault crack. At the lip or just over it traverse left to a left facing corner and then climb past the Easy Rider rails.

From the ledge atop the Cave Slabs, there are two main crack systems: a corner on the left (Ancient Way) and a wide crack on the right (Deception).  Leftover starts about 10' left of Deception and climbs a textured face to a thin crack. 

  The crux is bouldering up to the first nut placement.  Bring a good spotter!  Once you slam in the first piece (a smallish wire) you're in good shape. 

  This climb is a true exemplar of Traprock climbing.  The pro is adaquate (but just barely), the moves take a lot of thought, and even though the route is only about 60' it can take hours to lead.  Ain't no sport climb.

Another ancient classic - a route way ahead of its time. 

  The start is easily located - a detached pillar about 45 feet past (left of) Wiessner Slab marks the route.  Things start off easy but the business begins when a small overhang is reached.  Follow the crack to the top.

Another classic Ragged testpiece.  Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable.  Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up.  This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead.  The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it.  Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills. 

  If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from the top of the cliff that marks this route and Unconquerable.  There is gear near the tree to set an anchor.

Starts behind the Wiessner Slab, and all the way to the looker's right. Climb the inside corner and/or use face holds to the left of the corner. Climb up until the chimney narrows enough to start stemming or using chimney technique.Aim for the opening at the top of the corner, and you’ll pop out on the top of the Wiessner Slab, immediately below Wiessner Crack (5.8-).Belay from the slung boulder rap station.

20 degree overhanging crack. Starts hands and gradually opens to 4 or 5 inches. Ignore the chockstone once your fists start to rattle and you'll have to dig up some offwidth technique to reach the top. If you're actually climbing this you're probably pretty desperate (or just really like crack), so try a few variations like sit-starts, face holds off, etc.. Lots of fun!

Are you a real traprock leader?  Try this one and find out.  The face above Wiessner Slab contains flakes leading up to a blank final problem.  There is pro at the crux (top of the slab) but it takes some work to find.  Often done on TR.

An enjoyable way up Wiessner Slab.  Abundant holds most of the way, with a brief blank-ish section toward the top.  A nice warm-up for Wiessner Crack or Laverado Corner.

Start 7 ft. right of Carry's Corner climbing up the thin face to the roof. Step out and right around the dihedral then climb up and left above the roof to an stance on the arete. Climb the rest of the Ragged Edge Arete, moving to the right face to topout.

Climbs the face between Visions and Unconquerable Crack. Start on a hairline crack and follow it up till the face runs out at which point you have to pull on a few of Visions' holds stepping back right shortly afterwards and firing to the top. Finish left of small corner.

From the North end of the crag follow the sloping ledge right to the corner.  Traverse right, over North End, on a ledge that leads to a wide crack and right facing corner.  Set second pitch here to help with rope drag.  Follow crack/ corner to the top.

A huge, slightly overhung corner at the north end of Ragged.  Walk past the low-angle slabs in the Cave Slab area and then look straight up to see the route. 

  Climb a double crack about 20' to a ledge and into the base of the huge overhanging left-facing corner.  Follow the crack up the corner to the top.  Well protected and exposed.

Another classic Reppy route at Ragged.  This goes up the left side of the Skull and Bones block. 

  There is a hard move near the bottom that is difficult to protect unless the fixed pin has been replaced.  This can be avoided by traversing in from the left above the tiny roof at the bottom.  Above this, a classic thin crack leads to the crux where you pass the left edge of the roof. 

The NCS route climbs the center of the Northern Cave Slab.  Start below a shallow, left-facing corner flanked by two good sized trees.  Climb along the left side of the corner (a small stopper or two for protection, but otherwise pretty sparse) to a large block below the upper section (good cam placement here) to the right of a chimney.  The crux is moving from the lower block into the grove on the upper block.  Swing over to the upper block and continue to the top.  There is another good stopper placement on this upper block.  The top section is a little dirty.  The NCS Route provides easy access to the climbs starting on top of the slab and Ancient Way.

Starting in the large left facing corner 20' right of Cemetery Vault, climb up to the smaller left facing corner and within two feet of it's end, make a dynamic move over to the Duck Soup crack. Finish Duck Soup to the top.

Visions is an excellent climb as far as Ragged goes, but dont be fooled by the grade. This thing is hard even for Connecticut standards and feels a bit, dare I say it, sandbagged. Supposedly the straight up variation is an .11 but both ways are equally as sequential and technical.

Start a few feet right of Ancient Way. Climb up the face left facing corner which will give you access to a small ledge. Continue climbing up and left. Original Route climbed up Ancient way for 15 ft and then you climbed out left onto the face.

Wet Wall is one of the few moderate lines ascending the entire face at Ragged.  It starts with a tricky corner (hard to protect) and then an easy section followed by the crux layback (well protected by cams) and then up a corner to the top.

This is the easiest way to the top of the cliff from Wiessner.From the ledge at the top of the slab, downclimb underneath the boulder wedged in the crack on the right side of the ledge and step onto a small traverse ledge leading right. Not hard, but sort of strange. The bolt above you (if in place) marks Knight's Gambit. Ignore it.Follow this ledge right (easy but exposed) to its end and pull up a short boulder problem.Climb up and take the right-facing corner to the top.It can be hard to protect the second on the traverse. I drop the other end of the rope down to protect the initial moves where the route goes down and around the boulder when I have a beginner on this route.

Challenging face climbing on a wandering line. Keep right of Hemlock Grove offwidth; Follow face up unill parellel with Skull and Bones block, step left continue up face to the top.

Climbs the face between Unconquerable and Sublime.

Rather then stepping right at the roof for Cygnus X-1 step left and layback up the arete to join Cygnus X-1 to the top using the right side of the arete.

The face to the left of Wiessner Slab contains an excellent 5.6.  This was initially climbed by stepping left from the slab onto a ledge at mid-height.  The more common line climbs the face below this ledge. 

  Start a bit left of the corner that marks the second half of the route.  Climb up to a small roof and pull through onto the ledge above (crux).  This can also be done further left, slightly easier.  The pro is a bit hard to get in but generally good.  Once on the ledge, traverse right to the corner and up to the top.  There is a second crux near the end of the corner.

The left-hand corner above Wiessner Slab. 

  Fritz did this in mountain boots with a crappy rope tied around his waist.  Climbers with poor crack technique think this is really hard!

This route traverses the Main Cliff, Left to right, and was the first of it's kind in central CT. 

Pitch 1: Starting on the North End on the End Ramp's left side, follow the ramp to the west face. Climb several feet down Taurus to a ledge. Continue traversing right around the arete and then climb onto a block. 

Pitch 2: Climb down off the block to another ledge, continue right around a corner eventually to Owl's Perch. From there climb down again and continue traversing under Easy Rider's overhang and out to Cemetery corner. 

Pitch 3: Continue down and right to the Neanderthal Ledge then traverse to the Marlinspike crack. Above you should be a horizontal which will  give you access to Double Crux crack where you can gain a large block. Continue traversing until you can climb down into the Ancient Way corner, then continue sideways to the Sunday Bulge ledge. 

Pitch 4: From the Sunday Bulge ledge continue traversing to May's Way Ledge. From this ledge continue traversing right to get to Unconquerable Crack. From the crack climb up to a ledge that will bring you to the Bombay Corner. Continue traversing into Main Street and then follow an  traversing line just below the top of the cliff to Wishbone. From Wishbone, you will need to down climb to gain access to Kor Crack and the rest ledge. 

Pitch 5: From here continue right traversing towards Foobah's ledge. Work down and right through Suspense ramp to the Bushy Groove corner. From here make a move around the corner to the upper Juniper Wall ledge. Continue down climbing to the lower ledge which will give you access to Vector corner. From here continue climbing right using a series of ledges to the Side Entry corner.  From here work down and right to Vajolet and onto the Wiessner Slab. From here move to the top right  of the slab. 

Pitch 6: Continue traversing right at the top of the slab to a ledge below Hemlock Groove.  

Pitch 7: Climb down Hemlock Corner until you can traverse right just under the Skull and Bones block to the large ledge in the middle of Carey's Corner. Finish up Carey's Corner.  

Source: Hooked on Traprock, Ken Nichols

Start on the face just left of the classic Broadway (5.8) climb up and left to a slight ledge about 20ft and continue climbing up under the overhanging block. Crank over the right side of the roof and follow the arete to the top of the block.

Climb the right facing corner and massive crack on the back left side of the recessed ledge above Aid Crack.

Follow the path of least resistance up the face to the left of Aid Crack and right of Hangover.  The crux is around 1/3 of the way up, when you get to a good two-hand crimp rail, with your feet on little nubbins.  If you can find a sequence (there are at least a couple that work) to get your feet where your hands are, you'll be able to reach the good handholds, and the rest eases up a bit.

The large off width slot in the middle of the recessed ledge above Aid Crack.

Although the FA was done on lead, this climb is almost always done on toprope.  Start at the memorial plaque and then work left up the face, eventually finishing on the arete just right of Carey Corner.  A superb line. 

  The plaque at the base of this route is a memorial to Jim Adair, who died in Yosemite.  His father, Bob Adair, is a physics professor at Yale and is famous for a book on the physics of baseball.  The Adairs have given generously to the RMF.

Start ~40ft right of Aid Crack in a broken section of rock.  Meander up to the left side of the large overhang.  Continue up the left facing corner on the side of the overhang until your hands are about even with the top of the overhang.  Now on to the best part...  traverse to the right, out the roof ~5ft, then pull up to easier ground above.

Ancient Way is an excellent easy route at the Main Cliff.  It is located at the left edge of the ledges atop the Cave Slabs.  Find Unconquerable Crack / Subline and go through a short cave to the left.  Then boulder up a few moves to the ledge on the next flake over.  Belay at the left end of this ledge.  The route takes the left-facing dihedral / crack to the summit.

Starting a bit left of Vector, climb a blankish wall to a ramp leading up to a small juniper.  This initial section is easy but somewhat hard to protect.  Past the tree follow cracks (crux) to the top.  The crux is well protected.

Start this route on some blocks to the right of the crack system and traverse into the easy ground.  Some loose rock in the upper part of the climb.  Not as nice as Knight's Move or Ancient Way.

From a thin seam approx. 8 ft right of Sandbag Corner, follow to a ledge, next reach a small right facing corner and layback up to top. Pull over the lip of the overhang and continue climbing up to the top.

Starts 15 or so feet left of Wishbone. Climb the right facing corner to a small roof. Keep going to a ledge. Move a few feet left and continue over the bulge to the top.

Starting three feet right of Vajolet arete on a crack system on top of the Wiessner Slab, follow cracks to the top.

Quite a bit of flavor packed into 100ft.  The first 60 feet are a pretty unique romp up two opposing corners, over a narrowing chimney.  Three-dimensional, sometimes exposed, and fun.  

  There's a moment at the block when you can either top out the block and then step out onto the face, or just go up the face (which is a a bit harder). 

  The last 30 ft are steep and challenging for the grade. 

Starting about 10 ft right of Carey's Corner crack, step up to the start holds for Cygnus X-1. Climb to the decent horizontal just below the large overlap, follow the horizontal left for several feet and reach up to a large jug/rest at the base of the Ragged Arete where it joins the face. Layback out the arete to gain a stance just below the small overlap. From the small overlap continue up the arete using decent holds to a good stance (almost no hands). From this rest stance work several tenuous moves to an undercling flake on the corner. At the flake make a crux swinging move (utilizing the sidepull on the flake) left around the corner. Once established on the left side of the arete, work a compression sequence up the seam and arete to the top of the Ragged Arete. Fist pump. 

  I believe this is an FA, if you know otherwise speak up! This line is a link up, Swan Song into Black Orchid.

An obvious crack system at the right side of the smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.  Climb to a ledge and then descend right.  Often TRed but leadable.

Fun offwidth crack with a dead tree in it about 30 feet up.  Follow it all the way to the top.  Some loose rock here and there in the back of the crack.

Begin on the green patina'd slab directly below Marlinspike.  Climb right of the tree filled gully.  Climb past 3 horizontal breaks and belay at Marlinspike. 

  We asked the guidebook authors about recorded history of this route.  It as not been recorded previously, but I think it is warranted to call this a FRA.

Start directly up the face, or start left on the arete for an easier variation and traverse right on hollow flakes.  Side pulls and crimps lead to jugs.  Finish on the steep face to the right, or stay left and go up the ramp towards easier ground.  Fairly steep.  Typical traprock.

This is an alternative 2nd pitch to May's Way.  About 10' up P2, work easily left and up to a small pillar.  With care, you can set pro and then pull the crux bulge.  Finish right and up to the top.  Definitely leadable but it takes work to get the pro in.

This is the traditional beginners route at the Main Cliff.  It ascends the obvious lower-angle slab that has detached itself from the main cliff.  Two lines are available: on the left side, following some small cracks, and on the right side leading up face to a right-facing corner system. 

  This climb does not go to the top of the face but there is usually a rap anchor on the large ledge atop the slab.

Decent face climbing.  Climb straight up the face 5 feet left of Carey Corner.  Just before the big ledge it thins out for a couple moves.  It's also thin just as you leave the ledge.  All in all an ok toprope if you're looking for some no-frills face climbing at Ragged.

This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch. 

  This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear.  You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there.  I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for it. 

  Hassler Whitney is famous for the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, put up earlier in 1929.

This route is seldom climbed but definitely worth doing.  Good jamming / stemming on this one.

Despite what the climb was probably originally named for, I'm pretty sure the double crux is the mass amounts of shed snake skin in the ferns halfway up the climb, which I assume means a nest? And then the poison ivy vine growing in the crack at the top. Double Crux.

This is the prominant dihedral just right of the Skull and Bones block.  Climb through a fist-sized crack to the dihedral and the up the corner to the top.

This is the right to left traverse of Main Cliff. Starts at the end of the cliff and goes above the memorial plaque. Follows the natural line going up the Broadway block. From here it follows a line that ends up on top of the Wiessner slab.In my opinion this is not for the casual 5.8 leader due to poor gear.

BEWARE OF COPPERHEAD AT TOP OF CLIMB Near the right end of the face is a huge block forming a roof about 50' up.  Broadway goes up the crack to the right edge of the block. 

  This is one of the best routes on the cliff - continuous 5.7 - 5.8 climbing with good pro if you know how to place it.

 The block that marks the roof is the Skull and Bones block - named after the secret society at nearby Yale University.

A few feet past Tower Crack climb over a small roof to a small ledge. Climb the face straight up above the ledge avoiding the route Faceout

Starting 4 ft left of Wiessner Crack on the right side of a block, climb up the face above.

This is the obvious wide-crack system right of Ancient Way.  Yet another quality Reppy / Streibert route.  Certainly requires a bit of thought to find the 5.7 in a few spots.  Well protected.

This short but fun crack is near the left edge of the face.  Locate an obvious crack just a bit right of North End that leads up to a ledge with a small tree.  This climb is often TRed but definitely leadable.  It is possible to scramble to the tree to set a top rope from the right.

Located between Hot Rocks and Tower Crack this route ascends a tiny crack and some left facing corners.

Climb the face between Jam Corner and Obsession.

Climb easily up to a roof and pass this on the right edge (crux).  Then proceed up the corner above to the top. 

  Take care with the protection on this climb - there has been a fatality and serious fall on this route.

This is the easiest route up the face of Ragged.  It is usually done in two pitches. 

  P1: Climb the crack to the top of the slab.  Watch for loose rocks on the belay ledge.  This an excellent place to take beginners and teach leading.  With care, you can downclimb off the left edge of this ledge to the cave behind the slab. 

  P2: Climb the obvious corner above the slab (steep!) to the top.

Wandering line to slight overhang, diagonal crack above a small ledge to a small inside corner to finish. 

  Per M. Delaney: "I did the first ascent in 1974, I did it as an unroped solo. I had climbed all of the existing routes on the main cliff, mostly with my brother Brian Delaney (RIP 2014), and the relatively blank wall where Caroline is seemed to have merit. By the way, when Ken Nichols was collecting new CT routes for some project he was working on, I spelled the route "Caroline," as opposed to the current spelling--don't know where the current spelling came from and if it appears that way in a guidebook. I named the route for Caroline Eschardt, who died while climbing at the Quincy Quarries in 1973."

Climb the face and edge on the left side of the Weissner slab.  Ample opportunities for protection are scattered about, mostly at the edge. 

  The crux is really building the gear anchor at the top of the slab.  There is a small tree at the base of Tower Crack (be gentle).  Look hard for other placements in the rock.  

  You can link Tower Crack or Wiessner Crack, but both are significantly more difficult.

Climb the Skill and Bones route to the roof. Work over the left side of the roof and climb the face of the block to the sloping ledge above.

This is usually done in two pitches.  Start at a corner system just right of the left edge of the cliff.  Follow this up about 40 feet to a good ledge. 

  The second pitch climbs a much smaller crack above.  Protection is tricky but available with some effort.

An OK route but it suffers the same problem as Wishbone - a lack of consistency. 

  Start as for Wishbone but stay right and pull through the roof (crux) to a wide crack.  Easier climbing leads to the top.

This is one of the best routes anywhere.  Climb a crack just right of a slab leaning against the wall, about 200' left of Wiessner Slab.  Just to the right of this is the roof marking the start of Subline. 

  The crux is near the top but the whole line is tough with few good rests. 

  The traditional grade on this is 5.9 but it's certainly comparable with 10a in the west.

To the right of Bombay, climb the flakes and corner up through the overlap to a short finger crack to meet the Bombay corner. The gear is great, and some report the missing historical bolt is not needed to safely led this incredible variation to Bombay. The start is sometimes wet.

Start at the start of wet wall pulling the early crux before heading right to a dirty crack.  At the top of a detached block head left and up a large chimney.  There is no protection for the last 15 feet unless you bring some large Big Bros.

This route climbs a thin crack between Jam Corner and Sweat Slot. Climbing the face between these two until you reach a small left facing corner before the top.

This steep and blocky corner is harder than it looks.  It's not done very often, so check blocks before pulling on them too hard.  To set up a TR on this, you can lead any of the lead climbs to the ledge, and set up on the tree between Animal Crack and Aid Crack, or scramble up onto the ledge from climber's right.

This route lies on the wall just right of Wiessner Slab.  Start at a bolt about 10 feet up.  After clipping, move up and right to a small ledge and the back left and up to a ledge a mid height.  A small, slanting ledge leads to bigger holds above.  The awkward mantle onto the small ledge is protected by a bolt.  Continue up thin, discontinuous cracks to the top.

This route climbs up an obvious crack, around the left edge of the roof that Kor Crack surmounts.  The crux is the section immediately below the roof.  Above, follow an easy corner to a ledge.  Either continue up the same crack (harder) or step right to an easier finish. 

  This was John Reppy's first FA at Ragged.  An attempt to commemorate this on its 50th anniversary was turned back by cold weather.  Not many climbers can go back to their FAs 50 years later.

This is the largest and most fractured of the central Connecticut crags. 

  This west-facing cliff is more popular in the summer and can be quite cold during the winter. Routes are up to 100 feet, and anchors are often set far from the edge. Bring your long climbing rope and anchor rope.  

  Many of the Connecticut's finest routes are at Ragged Mountain, including Wiessner Slab, Wiessner Crack, Unconquerable Crack, Broadway, the YMC Route, Carey Corner, and Subline. Climbers of all abilities will find high-quality routes at Ragged.  

  Ragged has a long climbing history - many famous climbers have put up routes there, including Fritz Wiessner, Henry Barber, and Layton Kor. 

  Descend from all climbs using the trails at either end of the crag. 

  Ragged Mountain is owned by a group of climbers, the Ragged Mountain Foundation.  For directions to the crag and parking, please see their website at raggedmtn.org.  Please respect the neighbors and avoid trespassing or parking in the many no-parking zones. 

  Although the RMF does not charge admission to their property, they rely on donations and memberships to survive.  They have constructed trails, fought for parking, and advocated for climbers all through Connecticut.  If you climb there you should become a member - an annual membership is cheaper than a single day in the Gunks. A Historic Guide to Ragged Mountain (1964) John Reppy and Sam Streibert have generously allowed a copy of the original Ragged Mountain guidebook to be hosted on the Internet.  I've attached this as a comment below.  This is an interesting historical document and also a very good guide to many of the classic climbs at Ragged.A Guide to Ragged (1964) Please note that the 1964 guide lists routes on the Small Cliff. This cliff is on private land and not currently open to climbers. Restrictions This property is governed by a very strict conservation agreement.  Adding new fixed protection is forbidden.  Protection that existed when the cliff was transferred to the RMF can be replaced or upgraded but this is best done by locals.  

  Commercial use of Ragged Mountain is strictly regulated.  Groups of more that 6 cannot use this area if participants are paying.  If you have any questions about whether your group is commercial, please contact the RMF.  Any large groups should contact the RMF before they use the crag. 

  There is absolutely no camping allowed on Ragged Mountain or anywhere nearby. 

   Please check the RMF website and the kiosk below the cliff for additional regulations.

Description

Routes in Main Cliff