From Weekend Rock Arizona: Trad and Sport Routes from 5.0 to 5.10a by Lon Abbot: "This is a fun and unusual climb for Queen Creek. Climb the prominent chimney to the off-width crack that splits the buttress. Stoppers and several large cams are needed to lead it. This climb may also be top roped off the Moon Floss anchors if you bring a #2 or #2.5 cam for a directional at the top of the crack. Descent: Rap off the Moon Floss anchors or walk off.

Grand Titon

Moon Floss

Three Bulges and a Baby

Horny lizard

Strawberry Razzle Tea

Mary Jane

Ride the Wild

Leopard gecko

Camper Van Beethoven

Grasping For Straws

Unnamed Route

More This Than That

Unnamed Climb

Daughter

Snorkeling in the Rhyolite

Two Polacks and a Hilti

Boxcar Bob

Holiday Blues

Unknown route

Gumby Patrol

The Newcomer

Fun slab to a Queen Creek style first bolt. Basically a V2 boulder problem at 35' with a hairy top out.

Thin climbing that starts up a face with a shallow seam to the right (and back a bit) from Camper Van Beethoven. There's a prominent crack just to it's left (The Grand Titon, 5.7)

Climb crack to top, short route that shares belay bolt  with nearby route 

from the wash, its on the west side of one of the towers near the top of the hill. Northeast of Ride the wild

Found the crux between 1 and 2. Also, thought the route harder then the given rating of 5.9

6 bolts up the nose of this prominent fin. Easy, thrilling moves. About as fun as sport climbing can get.

Clip bolt and mantle ledge, clip second bolt and climb right of the bolt to the top! Route bolted on lead! 

A varied technical face route that we thought harder then its given rating of 5.9. It sees a great deal of traffic and has probably eroded up in difficulty.

No crux, just really fun climbing. Cool chimney at the top that doesn't require any chimney'ing. 

Large looking crack above short slab. Climb easiest rock below the crack to start. Climb crack to top!

The bolted line is about a 5.5, but two other lines are available once the anchor is set. There is a near vertical face with 2-finger pockets just right of the bolt line which is maybe 5.8+ for the first 15 feet, and further right is a 5.3 line still protected by the top anchors. You can scramble up the back to set a top rope too. One of the few easy climbs without significant distance between bolts in Queen Creek, makes a low risk first lead.

Start either left of the bolt on the crack, or go straight up. Use a quad to avoid rope drag for top rope. Rap down. 

Route around on the east side of the formation that has Moon Floss and Camper Van Beethoven. Climb up face past bolt to ledge, then continue to top past three more bolts to anchor.

Fun route.  Starts with low slope transitioning to vertical.

Climb face over bulge. Route originally only had 3 bolts, bolts 2, 4 and 6(who but 2 Polacks with a Hilti would do such a thing!). Additional bolts were added later by first ascent party due to community feedback.

Stay on the face for a more challenging route. Route goes to the left and up the chimney/arete for a low grade top out.

Follow bolts up the sandy face then head left at the roof and climb up to 2 bolt anchors.

  Ramp leads to a ledge, a small bulge, and then to the top.  The first bolt is lower than that of the neighboring Snorkeling, which makes it a less daunting lead.   *this may be on the Marty Map, I need to check)

Thin start to a highish bolt.  More thin moves up and left to another bolt that also seems just a tad higher than you would want it to be.  Ok--now catch a good rest!  Start slightly overhanging crux finish.  Sequencey on tons of slopey pockets.

Lower Looner Land is the section of pinnacles found just south and a bit west of the parking area. The formations here mostly feature positive edges with the occasional deep pocket, although there are some pretty good finger tweakers here as well. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Looner Land