This route is located on the speckled face right of

Muffin Bandits

and shares a common start with that route.

Begin on

Muffin Bandits

and then cut right onto the tan and brown patina face passing a curving horizontal crack where a fixed pin used to exist (a small cam works well). Continue onto the upper face passing four bolts and some loose holds with one hard sequence (5.11a) before topping out. Gear belay and walk off/scramble down the backside.

Slow Mutants

Muffin Bandits

E. B. Bon Homme

Friendly Fists

Garden Path

Science Experiments You Can Eat

Pillar Of Dawn

Chute To Kill

Spire Route

Wren's Nest

Under A Raging Moon

Muffin Head

Too Thin For Poodles

High and Dry (AKA Short But Flared)

The most striking route on the middle section of The Techulator is the hanging dihedral of Muffin Bandits. Apparently the first ascent party climbed directly into the dihedral via the thin crack which is the lower continuation of the crack which comes down out of the dihedral. This start may be a bit loose. Climb the dihedral via an interesting combination of finger jamming, stemming and face holds. It is also possible to climb into the dihedral from horizontals to a knob just below the left end of a ledge which is at the bottom of the dihedral (5.10b?).

Varied climb up a corner, over a steep bit to a face, then a crack finish to the top.  Fun!

Climb the crack, which is easier than it looks, due to some good face holds.  This climb is in the shade almost all day.

Climb the crack and gully, with just one hard move.  On the first ascent, tree branches, a chockstone, and some loose rocks detracted from our experience.

Easier climbing past horizontals and discontinuous cracks lead to a thin face section with two bolts.

This is an o.k. route up to a great summit.  A shallow dihedral splits the south face.  Follow the dihedral up to a fork.  Take the right fork, around a roof, and to the top.

Moderate liebacking leads to the top of a flake; the first bolt is a bit higher.  The crux is above the second bolt.

Scramble up easy rock with minimal pro to a ledge and then contiue up the face past a bolt to anchors on top.

A strenuous step-up near the start takes you to a knobby face.  The steep wall above has good holds and nice moves, but somewhat questionnable rock.  Vogel's guidebook lists this as a toprope, but it is adequately protected as a lead.

Jam up a very flared crack, using some stems on the main wall, and reach a great hand and fist crack that leads to the top.

Start by coming in from the left. Climb horizontal face holds just right of a crack to a ledgy area. Walk right 15' on a sloping ledge. Climb up and right placing pro in a horizontal and then higher in a straight up thin crack. Step right and tiptoe up to a knob (5.10b/c). It is possible to sling the knob for pro. Mantle onto a ledge and walk right to the dihedral of Muffin Bandits.

These features can be seen in Bartlett's Wonderland Guide just to the right of the L that marks where Science Experiments You Can Eat starts.

Climb up to the fork in the crack (crux).  Take the left fork and climb (5.10A) up to a great stance on a huge knob.  Clip the first bolt and then face climb up and left (5.10A) to a second bolt.  Continue to the top.  The face was full of thin, loose flakes on the first ascent, but it should get better with use.

Climb the obvious crack.  A thin finger crack is in the back of a very flared hand crack.  Despite the flare, it protects well with cams.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Techulator